AMS EVO X dyno Tuning Results!
Apr 28, 2008, 10:10 AM
#16
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From what I read, they messing around with restrictor and things of that nature in their vacuum lines. Something that has been done, and proven to work here and other places around the net. I am sure that with a properly sized restrictor we can have more control over the boost. Right now the stock solenoids are maxed out on our car.
As you stated, it's about the balance of fuel, boost, and timing, too bad the internets often lead people to think otherwise
We did not change any pills or use any bleeds, I simply commented that it would be possible to get more solenoid head room by doing so in an attempt to silence all the "with twin solenoids it should hold more boost up top" posts. We will be trying it out soon. I'm sure you will also.
Our findings were the same as yours, both solenoids were 100% duty cycle from about 5,500 to redline.
Glad to see you in the game. Gonna need a tune soon!
Jun 1, 2008, 12:48 PM
#20
Boost is a measurement of the airflow that does not make it into the engine...
If you start out at a higher airflow, higher boost level, the airflow necessary to keep the boost higher will 'last longer' and keep the turbo spinning at ridiculous RPMS to keep the boost up. Typically the only cars which I have seen that hold boost are the ones that don't make any power. The only reason the boost drops off is because the turbo 'can't keep up' with the airflow of the motor at high RPMS.
When it does 'keep up' the speed of the turbo and the heat production of the compressor wheel would be something similar to running 26-28 psi at lower RPMS...
Asking this turbo, or the turbo from any other stock turbo evo in the US to hold boost all the way to redline just simply won't be efficient. After messing with this for a while, getting the turbo to hold 1 or 2 more psi (when it is very close to the limit) usually only created more heat which required the motor to run less timing... There is a balance that needs to be achieved with heat, boost, and timing. Our philosophy here doesn't rely on big boost numbers to make big power. Focus is on efficiency and repeatability.
If you start out at a higher airflow, higher boost level, the airflow necessary to keep the boost higher will 'last longer' and keep the turbo spinning at ridiculous RPMS to keep the boost up. Typically the only cars which I have seen that hold boost are the ones that don't make any power. The only reason the boost drops off is because the turbo 'can't keep up' with the airflow of the motor at high RPMS.
When it does 'keep up' the speed of the turbo and the heat production of the compressor wheel would be something similar to running 26-28 psi at lower RPMS...
Asking this turbo, or the turbo from any other stock turbo evo in the US to hold boost all the way to redline just simply won't be efficient. After messing with this for a while, getting the turbo to hold 1 or 2 more psi (when it is very close to the limit) usually only created more heat which required the motor to run less timing... There is a balance that needs to be achieved with heat, boost, and timing. Our philosophy here doesn't rely on big boost numbers to make big power. Focus is on efficiency and repeatability.
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