After some sleep it is starting to make more sense to me.

 

so wait im not sure what im looking at here. after the tune w/ just drop it, the cars running 245-50hp and after it looks like 285hp?!?! thats about 50 hp from a tune? damn?! i want a tune!

 

The legend on the right hand side of the chart indicates Run 1 Pre vs Run 1 Post and Run 2 Pre vs Run 2 Post.

These figures are "On The Road" logged with my Race Technology DL-1 (www.race-technology.com).

 

It is better than than...

Pre = 225 Peak, 200 redline
Post = 290 peak, 280 redline

Therefore Peak Gain = 65HP and Redline Gain = 80HP gain.

To truly belive how much better this car feels now you have to drive it!

 

You got it... Thanks for understanding the data presented.

 

Calm down mate! The devil is always in the detail...

The map you quoted looks to me like the baseline map that was tried on my car first. When they installed this map the car made about 50HP peak and about 60HP at the redline gains. Upon inspection of the wideband data the AFR was crap, still at about 10.5:1 so I asked them to lean it out.

My power curve was the result of the extra tweaking to get the AFR's to about 11.2:1 which was as far as they wanted to take it (as they are tuning safe and trying to optimise their "mail in" flash).

I should also add that they do indeed have control of 2Step and Rev Limit.

My rev limit is now +100RPM and my 2Step is now 6000RPM.

I must say at this point that Pete, Dave and Steve at WORKS really undestood how this car works, and I take my hat off to them and want to say a big thanks for their hard work.

They were very open with me and shared a lot of info and future plans with me that shall only remain with me. As a Systems Engineer I can truly state that they have to be amongst the most competent auto engineers and tuners I have ever met and that they have what appears to me at least more control over the ECU than ANYONE else (read into that how you will ;-0).

I enjoyed my day hanging around with them while the tuned the car and I am looking forward to more great stuff for the EVO X from WORKS team.

 

Oh ok so they leaned out the air/fuel more, makes sense. I will say this though, mail in flashes don't yield as good of results as a custom tune and although the works brain flash is a great piece of software, so is ecutek. Ecutek has just as much control over the ecu as the brain flash. Either way, I am not knocking WORKS, hell you can look at my signature as proof, I am just saying that if you don't live in cali and can't get them to put your car on the dyno to tune it that you are better off going with ecutek if you have a tuner in your area that uses that. Custom tune, whether works OR ecutek, is better than a mail in flash any day of the week. Anyway, congrats on your car bro, that's awesome. I can't wait to get mine done.

 

Quite so - A custom tune will always be better than a "one size fits all" mail in tune - It has to be to take into account variance between engines and ancilliary's.

WIth regards to tuning your car, and this goes to everyone out there with a stock Evo X, here is my opinion:

During the initial break in I was enjoying the car, keeping to an imaginary rev limit of 4000RPM or so and enjoying the boost up to this point. I am of the camp that break in should be progressive and increasing in RPM sooner rather than later (Note RPM, not LOAD). As I worked through the break in period and increased the RPM's and then eventually load on the car I was increasingly dissapointed with it's performance to the point where I hated reving it out past 4000RPM or so as it was very unrewarding (I am a tought customer in this department as I get my true performance kicks from a GSXR-1000K6 track bike which trounces this car everywhere except cornering - If you dont belive It I have the data to prove it...!).

Anyway, I decided I had to do something and I was torn between WORKS and Vishnu (COBB is months away and there are no ECUTek dealers in the area).

Vishnu's Plug N Play is better from the perspective of non-intrusive / no warranty worries, but an ECU FLASH (if done correctly) is by far a better solution than a piggy back ECU as you have control of ALL the variables not just a subset as with the Piggy Back.

I actually contacted Vishnu with a view to piggy back but they were very unhelpful (didnt return my call when I asked for the plug n play solution but were happy to do a wire in version - defeats the whole advantage of the Piggy Back in my opinion).

I contacted WORKS and they were VERY helpful.

So I went with WORKS.

NOW I REALLY LIKE THIS CAR. The WORKS ECU Flash has transformed the whole car. It now power slides all 4 wheels on demand and is encouraging me to do things that my licence does not allow....

In Summary, Post Flash:
It is smoother
It does not bog off the line
It does not suck gas as fast
It does not contaminate the back of the car with as much soot
It goes very well thank you.

Value for Money = $650 for 65~86AWHP. No other mod comes close, including MBC (ask GSXR he has an MBC and a load of other mods and he likes the way my car drives better).

I am waiting for GSXR to get his car tuned now as he has most of the usual bolt on mods that everyone does to see how much better his car feels. If it is enough of an improvement (we anticipate about 320AWHP for Intercooler, Hard Pipes, Cat Back, Drop In vs my 290AWHP although the real difference will be the rate of change of acceleration - with all the breathing mods the car should build boost faster and therefore accelerate faster, so peak power alone does not tell the whole story) then I may be temtped but at this point it is hard to realize the value for money equation.

 

I can attach the Excel file to the post if anyone is interested so you can see how it is calculated.

 

You get it... thanks for taking the time to understand the data presented.

What is interesting about this discussion is that people dont seem to understand what a certain amount of power means in the real world (away from the dyno and drag strip). This is why I presnted my logged data. It really is quite an impressive difference in normal driving.

With regards changing the boost and repeating the runs - I do not have control of it - but my ECU does (and not one of those horrible MBC's)!

Maybe when I get a chance (and find a good location to do so) I will do a through the gears 1/4 mile drag simulation with the logger and this will confim all the discussions about Speed vs Distance vs Time and the absolute power output for any doubters that remain. Either that or I will just go to Wednesday Night Drags at Infineon Raceway... never been before though and dont fancy frying my clutch!

 

I am getting my WORKS tune at 10am today (the 12th). I can't wait to see how this car feels afterwards. I have driven this thing up and down bear creek rd, wild cat canyon rd, and fish ranch rd. I've also just stepped on it from time to time to feel the boost, and honestly, it's great IMO!

But I really want this tune for the added whp and smooth acceleration. I was contemplating bolt-ons first, THEN tune. But I think I'd rather get the tune first, and maybe after a while, I'll get bolt-ons and get a custom tune by WORKS (after I move back from Hawaii of course)

Oh and you wanna know what really sucks? I can't enjoy the post-tune drivability for too long, because I have to drop off the car for shipment to Hawaii!! Ugh, this is one reason why I hate having to move over to there!!

Maui race tracks, HERE I COME!!!!

 

is there really a race track in Maui? lol
Good luck getting tuned

 

So they are running on the safe side. I was highly thinking of seeing them soon, but I also wanna slowly add bolt on's. Would adding bolt ons after a tune be safe and once they are all on retune it? Or would I lean the car too far out with the tune followed by bolt ons. I dont feel like retuning for ever new thing added. But I want the power of a tune now, but eventually to add a TBE, Intake, Intercooler, ect. So what would be best?

 

lol im feeling the pain also, im in san antonio 2 =/