junction

iTrader: (9)

Got my car back from AMS. Well it doesn't feel like my car anymore it feels like a real EVO now. I have the parts listed in my signature. Now this is a somewhat conservative tune for daily driving running 22psi of boost. I went without an intake since what I have seen the gains are very minimal if any at all after a tune.

I never had my car on the dyno before the mods but to give you an example of what the readings have been stock on AMS's Dyno I have seen other cars that were about 240whp 248wtq.

My baseline before the tune/with the mods was

271whp 263wtq

After the tune

295whp 302wtq

Gains from tune alone are 24whp and 39wtq. Car feels incredible now!

I would just like to say thank you to the guys at AMS!

EvoXstylin

iTrader: (2)

Pretty good numbers, but I still think you should of gotten an intake or atleast a drop in.

4myX

iTrader: (5)

I was there tuesday for my tune, and we have pretty much the same numbers, I wish you could of tried a intake to see if that helped, I have a k&n cone filter on mine and a resonated test pipe too. Did you get to look at there evo x? Its Nice

Rguy

iTrader: (6)

Nice! I made the same exact numbers with my tune but i dont have the catback. I do have the IC and pipe though.


I do agree with you on the intake thing. I took mine out, seems these cars HATE filters. i took out my filter completely and did a run and lost HP all over.

On a car with no tune the Filter makes power via leaning...once you lean it out via ECU the filter is useless, just screws with the maf.

love9sick

I'm thinking of going stock intake again. It feels like there is almost no reason to buy the shield to block the AC situation as the stock intake will work fine after a tune

Look at the huge ugly dip around 6500-7k rpm on your stock tune! jebus!

junction

iTrader: (9)

The only thing I can see an intake helping with is throttle response and slight better spooling. I am happy without it.

Yeah the missing, knock and whatever else was ridiculous on my car prior to the tune. It ran like garbage up top.

My car is so much fun now with the tune by AMS. I wake up even more excited to drive to work now .

kinloch99

i'm not a dyno numbers guy, but i would expect more of an increase. also i think you could have spent 200 on a test pipe instead of 2000 on all of that stuff, still sounded quiet and got just as much hp. but at least you have the stuff for down the road.

Poondoggs

iTrader: (4)

Bear in mind that every dyno is different. If you calculate his gain it is 55 whp over his 240 whp. That's more than a 23.5% increase in peak numbers. Some dynojets are calibrated to match mustang dyno readings. There are some dynojet dynos that are calibrated to match Mustang dynos. There has been some recent testing that shows Mustang dynos are provide results that reflect real condistions. Who knows how they calibrate the dyno.

nice numbers!

KPerez

Now your X with the following:
AMS Manual Boost Controller
Buschur 4.5" FMIC
Buschur UICP
Buschur Catback Exhaust
Buschur Mini Battery Kit and achieved 295 whp and 302 torque.

Sean@Iveytune on a Dynojet, the same as that at AMS, tuned my X, also using EcuTek, with the following aftermarket parts:
AMS Intake
AMS Cat back and achieved 321.7 whp and 322.6 torque.
Conclusion: intake is responsible for >20whp and torque OR Sean Ivey was able to extract same via a different tune. Doubt the latter since your X also had a larger front mount and UICP relative to OEM. Bottom line: Cold air intake is worth the bucks. Do it!
Later, Ken

Rguy

iTrader: (6)

The intake wasnt responsible for those extra 20. Most likely Sean gave you a more aggressive tune.

I LOST HP when i removed the stock box.

Hiboost

iTrader: (9)

Too many factors to list could have influenced the numbers. Different Dyno calibration, more aggressive tune, different temps/pressure/humidity (type of IC can be effect corrections for better or worse), Different boost levels at various RPM's, different gas, different cars!

To list just a few that stand out.

You can see my numbers I got this weekend at the Shootout in my signature, with a clutch that could hold the power the car feels like it could pull a 110-112 mph trap speed but it was just spinning too hard in 1st and part of 2nd to put the power down. My dyno numbers were at 24 PSI but once I changed to 26 PSI the car's low to mid torque easily jumped 15-25 awhp based on a comparison ride in another car that used higher boost laying down more torque than me on the Dyno.

nolimits1320

iTrader: (10)

That's a very bad comparison...way too many variables. This thread isn't really about whether he should have an intake or not anyway.

Grats on the results, these cars desperately need a better tune!

KPerez

Well it sort of digressed into whether the intake was worth acquiring or not. In fact, one post suggested removing the aftermarket intake and reinstalling OEM filter.
Now as far as a "more aggressive tune" is concerned, Sean was, I think, rather conservative with A/F =11.2. Boost is up slightly (22-23?); 93 Octane; 98 F. But now I am confused as to how to even compare results from anyone else if the variables listed above could change by as much as >20whp!? Can one only evaluate the benefits of mods by comparing the vehicles own baseline and nothing else? If true, then all these threads here and elsewhere comparing their results with specific mods are useless and need to be eliminated. Somebody shed some light here.

Later, Ken

Auf Wiedersehen

iTrader: (1)

Looks good Junction!!!

Chris knows how to tune an EVO... Wish you the best with the new part

BEN

Chris@AMS

iTrader: (9)

Unfortunately cars are not legos.

Putting part A on Car B is most likely always going to result in a horsepower increase of C...

However, all cars are not created equal. Some have chosen to break down vehicles in this manner. Which does make some sense when in relation to the factory tune which is the same for ALL cars.

25% of cars horsepower output will be lower than expected
50% of cars horsepower output will be about what is expected
25% of cars horsepower output will be higher than expected.

When designing an ECU calibration which can be used on all of these cars, it is easy to see why there is so much head room left in a 'tune' from the factory. Although some of their methods are questionable, have you ever heard of an engine failure due to a stock tune on a Mitsubishi?

Given that we arent all starting with the same cars, it is easy to see how the horsepower numbers can be different.

There is no 'calibration' for a dynojet. There are only correction factors, such as standard, SAE, uncorrected, etc. No one pays attention to these either. Changing the correction factor on any dyno will take the uncorrected number, and correct it using formulas for weather related conditions. Changing the correction factor can result in anywhere from no change to a 30hp swing.

Add this to the fact that people do mess with their dynos in order to read the numbers that they think the car should make, and I can see how its easy to be confused. As I have said, and will continue to say... Trying to compare any numbers from one dyno to another especially in different geographic locations is completely useless and will cause more confusion than anything else. It is much more productive to focus on the before/after dyno graphs and examine the gains on each particular car.