nope. just take it out. thats why i am wondering what this new pill is.

 

If u go to Cobb web page u will see they offer u new pill to replace with. Let me know if I am wrong

 

Thats if you want less restiction then stock pill ,most people just get rid of the stock one, i took mine out and put it on a stage 2/ LWG for now till i get a proper dyno tune done and install my GS 3-port EBCS

 

I hate to resurrect this thread but I need help. I'm overboosting and hitting peak around 29-30psi. I tried all possible options to reduce the boost. Tried reducing the duty cycles with TruBoost (Settings=A10 & Spr 2, 11.5, & 25.5), tried factory setup (stock pill using stock boost control solenoids) with stock and reduced boost maps, tried using the AMS boost pill, and tried running straight off the Forge WGA. Nothing is working. The WGA was on the car when I bought it so I have no idea what spring is in it (Im guessing the 30+ one). How can I fix the issue of overboosting? Could I simply replace the spring with a yellow or blue one to hit my target boost of 24psi? Or... could I adjust the WGA turnbuckle to lower the boost? Im fairly new to this so any help is appreciated.

Current setup:

AMS UICP
AEM Intake
AEM TruBoost
AEM UEGO
ETS HFC
ETS V2 Quiet CBE
Torque Solutions Exhaust Mounts
BOLD Performance Custom Tune on 93oct
282 Cams
Forge WGA
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
ACT HD Clutch
AMS CMC Kit

 

First let me say I have a pet peeve when people can't copy their setup from their sig into their post. It will change and in the future someone will be lost.

Why are you using a pill and a tru-boost? That could be the problem right there.

Run a line straight from the J-pipe/outlet nipple to the WGA and see what you are boosting. If you are using a Tru-boost you should not have a pill. You are probably just flatlining the turbo.

You can also use the test procedure from the FSM. Basically connect a hand pump with a gauge to the WGA and see when it cracks open. The factory one does it at 14.3-14.7psi... yours will obviously be higher. Take note to NOT over pressurize the WGA or you can damage the diaphragm. (see page 15-6 of the FSM).

You can reduce the pre-load on the arm, just remember that you should always have some slight amount of preload for spool as well as keeping the diaphragm from resting on the case and being damaged. If you can slip the arm on without extending it you do not have enough pre-load.

 

I had it all in the post before but deleted it. I'll put it back up for future reference. Thanks.


I tried running a line straight to the WGA. It was still hitting 29-30. I also took the pill out because it wasn't needed. And the TruBoost isn't doing anything to control the boost.


I called Forge to see about a new spring and they suggested resetting the pre-load and working from there. It seems that its all the way out though. I'll try the things you mentioned and see if anything works. Thanks for the help. I'll reply back with what solves the problem.

 

It doesn't sound like the arm is moving at all then. You can try the test I mentioned above to actuate it by hand and see whats up. Thats definitely the first thing I'd do before you pop a motor.

It could be hung up on the O2 housing or might just be binding on something. Check the preload and I'll be anxiously waiting for what was wrong!

 

I probably won't be able to get around to doing anything until next week because of work. Also, I did email Forge and explain what's going on and they are mailing me a blue spring. I'll post back soon.

 

Hook a vacuum line directly from the wastegate to the turbo outlet. If you are still boosting very high, then something is wrong.

 

Here is an image of the test I was referring to:



He already tried, but I think the test above is a better idea. Then you can actually see when the arm starts to move without explodinating something.

 

It is also a good idea to completely unhook the WGA and make sure you can physically move the wastegate to the fully open position.

 

The Blue spring that Forge is sending hasn't came yet. But today I did remove the arm to work with the pre-load. It was at 3 full turns which I've read is a standard pre-load adjustment. I adjusted it to 0 pre-load where it was flush to put on. The piece that the arm connects to seems to be fine where it can fully open. I was still hitting 29.5psi at peak and throwing codes (P0123, P0222, etc..). Disabled the set of codes that were updated recently and now its not throwing anything else.

I've been trying to adjust the TruBoost settings. A and b are at 10 duty cycle. Spr/GaE is where I'm not sure of what I should put. At 11.0 it seemed to max out at 18psi and then spiked to 28psi. At Spr 2.0 it went straight to 29psi. The higher Spr seemed to try and control the peak boost better, but I dont think the TruBoost can handle much over 25psi (from what Ive read.) Not sure how factual that is though.

With the adjustments I ran a few pulls. 4th gear hit 29.5psi at over 120mph. The Virtual Dyno is having issues though. It showed 403hp/310tq. The tq numbers seem off.

I didn't have a pump to test the WGA. I saw that diagram in the Service Manual the other night. Def a big help. I would like to try that soon to see the result. I'm thinking once the blue spring comes I'll remove the WGA for disassembly and check to make sure the diaphragm isn't torn/ripped. If it's intact then I'll test the actuator and replace it with the blue spring if necessary.

 

Wait - so did you find a problem with the spring?

Why are you testing settings on the TruBoost when running a line from the outlet to the WGA still caused the huge spike?

After having to have bought a new motor last year I can attest that borrowing / renting from autozone (free?!) / fashioning / buying a hand pump will be well worth it if you don't blow up a motor. They aren't cheap.

In case you are over-thinking it... all I did was use a bike pump and a vacuum barrel with a vacuum cap on one end. I poked a hole in the vacuum cap with a needle and stuck the ball filling attachment into it (like you would to fill up a basketball). It only took 2-3 pumps of the 20 year old pump that I had to fill the space up and get a measurement.

 

To be honest... I'm just trying everything. I'm hoping to test the WGA soon. I get paid tomorrow so I can look at getting a pump to test it with. I think I am over-thinking it at this point. I've been extremely frustrated trying to figure it out. Forge said they would mail out a blue spring when I told them what was going on. I guess the only way to really know is to test it and/or take it apart.

 

I was hoping to get the wastegate off this week but this tropical storm hitting Central FL and me not having a garage to work in is putting a stall on things.


Update 8/7/12:

Wasnt able to use a pump to test the WGA, but today I swapped the Red spring with a Blue (weaker) spring and set preload to 3 full turns. Ran it hooked up to the AEM TruBoost and it was still overboosting. Also, tried running straight wastegate and it hit 29.5. I'm thinking maybe its an issue with the flapper not opening correctly; possibly hitting the DP on the inside. Or perhaps a boost leak. Im baffled right now. Not sure whats wrong. Any ideas?