I've read the threads about hesitating so if you guys cuss me out I understand. Just had the Greddy TIC installed and now my car is doing it. Could this be caused by the exhaust or is it a reflash issue. All I have is an AEM intake and the exhaust. I don't anticipate the dealer denying me warranty because the service writer I deal with is pretty cool but could they for those two mods? This is an f__in disaster for me because my wife is going to go nuts. I had to sell my Srt-4 because I blew the engine and nobody could figure out how to fix it. Anybody's input would be much appreciated.

 

and this is on an EVO? Either way, i would recommend getting the ecu reflashed. You can find a good reputable shop that does them, go that route. These mods wont hurt your car, and this isnt the first time i have heard of this. Go and get a reflash done and you should be find.

 

what's the actual problem?

 

The car is hesitating when I get the RPM's above 4000 and punch it. It starts to jerk pretty violently and lose power. My bad on the lack of info.

 

do you have a log?

what mods?

any tune?

have you tried changing the relay (search for relay check howto)

 

I still need help guys. Took the car into mitsu and they gave me a reflash. I was driving it again today and it started hesitating. I read the relay issue is mostly from higher mileage cars or cars with bigger fuel pumps. How do I get a log? What else could be the problem? No I don't have a tune. Is there anything I can tell the dealer to check? And by the way, the dealer couldn't duplicate the problem the first time I brought it in but like I said they did reflash it.

 

How do you take a log?? Get a Tatrix cable and EVOscan and ECU flash. Use EvoScan to take a log of the car and send it to a tuner to sniff out a problem. What the hell happened to your SRT-4 that the engine went and noone could figure it out? Sounds like your having bad luck with cars. Are you doing these mods yourself?

 

First of all, I think you posted in the wrong sub-forum... should move this to "engine/turbo/drivetrain" or general forums.

If you are not into tinkering around with the car's electronics, I would strongly suggest to go to a reputable tuner. Some basic DIY things to check/do:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...s-do-asap.html

Also, Switch the fuel pump relay with the DRL/Hi-beam relays just for good measure. I do this every oil change.

 

the original stock ECU flashes had issues in the upper RPM bands where at part throttle to full throttle above 4000 rpm they would break up, stumble, etc just like you're describing.

There's a couple things at play here, but I say that you should rule out any of the easy stuff first.

First, verify that your clutch is good. Get going around 60 in 5th. Then put the pedal to the floor, watching the rpm and mph gauges. If the rpms go up but the speed doesn't and then bam the rpms drop and then the speed does, then your clutch is dying (quickly) and you know a big part of your problem.

OK, so assuming that's good and the dealer did give you the most recent flash, which helps -- but doesn't solve the hesitation issues, you need to check two more easy things:
1. check the hose that was linked to above under the red engine cover to make sure that it's not popped off. Normally that will cause issues at idle more than at WOT.
2. check to make sure that your crappy black relay isn't going bad (it's more an issue in the cold and goes at 18-30k miles, more than anything else). Swap out the horn relay (it's what the replacement is) which is green for the black one. Look on here for the thread about it to see which ones to replace.

Go see if it's stumbling. If not, you know it's the relay. Don't go WOT until you replace it with a new one. Or above 4krpm since you'll be going lean and lean = hole in the side of the block.

OK, if it's still stumbling, you need to start looking for boost leaks. With the AEM kit and all it's connections it's quite possible that something's come off. Recheck all of the vacuum lines to make sure they are in the right place and are tight. If you just had the recall done for the fuel line, make sure that the UICP is tight (sometimes the dealer loosens it unnecessarily).

If everything looks good and you're still getting hesitation, then I think the only solution left will be a tune of some sort. I'm going to go out on a limb here and think that for your skill level, an accessport is likely the best bang for your buck. It's simple, they have an AEM map, it can log without a computer and it's a great device. It is also incredibly easy to go back to stock if you need to take the car to the dealer for service and you're worried about your warranty.

If you'd prefer an ECUFlash tune, there are numerous tuners in your area that are good and they can help you out.

 

did you check the fuel regulator to inlet manifold pipe is still on? It can cause stumbling at all over the RPM range really.