Can someone describe the process for switching maps with the AP? I'm trying to figure out how easy it is to go from one to the other. If I want to drive around locally on a Stage 1 map, and then switch it to Economy mode for a road trip, is it as simple as plugging it in under the steering wheel and pressing a button? Can I just keep it in my glove box, pre loaded with a few tunes, and switch on the fly?

Also, I've seen the claim that the dealers can't see that these were ever used if they are unmarried correctly. Is the implication then that the AP doesn't technically "reflash" the ECU? Does it get the job done in some other way or using some other technology? Or is it really that there is no Flash counter and that is how it goes undetected?

And I have read through the lengthy Cobb thread without getting a clear answer on the above questions.

 

Yes it is that simple to change maps.

When you install the AP you are given an opportunity for it to save you stock map to the AP. If you do this you will be able to unmarry the AP and it will reload the stock map back on to it. The AP does flash the ECU just as any other tuning utility. The unmarrying process works by putting your original ROM back on. There has been no evidence found of a flash counter, but that doesn't mean that if they shipped your ECU off to some lab at Mitsubishi corporate they wouldn't be able to tell. As far as we know the dealer themselves cannot detect that an AP was installed if it is unmarried.

 

Changing maps is incredibly simple, but the engine does have to be off. The AP has to be installed (married) to your car to do any map switching. Turn the key to 'On' (not ACC), plug in the AP and choose the option to switch maps. It brings up the list of maps you have saved. Choose the map you want, it flashes in 30 seconds or less, you start the car and drive away.

 

One thing to note here: their economy map is not that good. I get better mileage off the stock map.

I currently run a pro-tuned map where the lower load areas are optimized for economy and the high loads are for performance. No map switching required, just push on the gas pedal. For reference, I get 20 mpg in town (measured not from the display) and 25 on the highway (again, measured not from the display). My display reads 1-2 mpg higher than measured mpg.

 

I was talking to one of the techs at cobb and he said you should drive for 15 mins normal while the car relearns its timing. After that he said you can get onto it if you want. Has anyone else heard of this?

I got my GSR with 14 miles on it an had the dealer put in a AEM intake, UR down pipe, and UR cat back. They said I'd be fine with out a tune but just recently after getting a AP I noticed I was peaking at 28 psi stock. The stage 1 map had the same thing so I had to switch to the LWG map which has me back down to 23.5 psi. I had just over 2,000 miles on it before I got the AP, do you guys think I did any damage by running a new car at that high of boost? Thanks

 

driving lightly (out of boost) with constant throttle is definitely a good idea to do after a flash.

zerocool - you sir need a protune. stop messing about with the OTS maps for your mods.

 

haha yah I've been thinking about it but this is my DD and I want it to last me a while. I really don't want to do anything to aggressive with the car and start to kill its reliability. I'll get a toy car a few years down the road when I'm ready.

So is 15 mins a good rule of thumb?

 

When I go for datalog runs when I'm tuning the car, I flash and then go for a WOT run right away, then stop, tune, flash and do the same thing. Never had any problems.

 

If my car is coldish, I like to hit boost a couple light times before datalogging a WOT. But that's for WOT tuning. Once I'm done tuning WOT, I like to log complete drives while hitting boost at any and all RPM and Throttle positions. That way I can tune most of my map.

 

If the car needs to relearn the fuel trims and you're just going straight out to log/tune after flashing wont you be working off inacurate data?

 

Never had a problem yet. I've flashed and made runs within minutes of each other several times. When I finish tuning whatever I happen to be working on, I'll drive around for awhile and then make another datalog run to check it again. The last tuning log and the log-after-I-drove-around-for-awhile are usually about identical.

How do you think anyone tunes on a dyno?

 

ha, i guess you're right. I'm still trying to get a grasp of all this tunning/dyno stuff. It would be nice if Cobb had some kind of info on their website that explains what the AP is logging. More importantly what numbers are safe and what numbers are not.