Narrowband to wideband
Narrowband to wideband
I've been looking for a way to convert narrowband to wideband, does anyone have a program or an equation in which to do this?
Trying to use stock o2 on the Evo X with innovate lm2 but it's not working so I'm looking for a way to use the stock o2 sensor with evoscan.
Trying to use stock o2 on the Evo X with innovate lm2 but it's not working so I'm looking for a way to use the stock o2 sensor with evoscan.
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/7-...-use-only.html
here's a diy I found before, I know it's for a civic
here's a diy I found before, I know it's for a civic
you're asking a sensor that sends out 0-2 volts to do what a sensor that sends out 0-5 volts can do. that's the whole point of a wideband, better resolution range.
as far as the DIY, i believe some vehicles, mainly hondas, where equiped with widebands from the factory. ours wasn't, trust me.
GL though.
as far as the DIY, i believe some vehicles, mainly hondas, where equiped with widebands from the factory. ours wasn't, trust me.
GL though.
not even that.
a narrow band only knows 2 things:
1) when its leaner than stoich
2) when its richer than stoich
it doesn't have a concept of range of leanness/richness...
just get a proper wideband
a narrow band only knows 2 things:
1) when its leaner than stoich
2) when its richer than stoich
it doesn't have a concept of range of leanness/richness...
just get a proper wideband
I know we're both saying the same thing haha

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actually most NB's operate from 0 to 1 v, with 0.45v being the "switching" voltage...
your post made it seem like 0-2v was just reduced resolution, but thats not really right at all
like 0.4v, for a 0-1v NB, is NOT equiv to 2v in 0-5v WB
your post made it seem like 0-2v was just reduced resolution, but thats not really right at all

like 0.4v, for a 0-1v NB, is NOT equiv to 2v in 0-5v WB
tomatoe tomato hahaha it's not my fault people don't know narrow bands have three modes, stoich, rich, or lean without any resolution in between hence the name (narrow) hahaha.
Some widebands have multiple outputs and you can program the controller to simulate narrow band outputs on one (or more) of the outputs. The LC-1's let you do this. I never tried it, but if the narrow band simulation's signal was compatible with what the ECU needs to do its magic, it might save you from getting a bung welded in and just swapping the front NB for the WB, route output #2 to the NB ECU input, and output #1 to your WB gauge.
IIRC, the yellow wire in the LC-1 is the analog output #1 and is pre-programmed to simulate narrowband output, and the brown wire is analog output #2, which is used for wideband data logging. Please double check that and make sure you know what you're doing before trying this
IIRC, the yellow wire in the LC-1 is the analog output #1 and is pre-programmed to simulate narrowband output, and the brown wire is analog output #2, which is used for wideband data logging. Please double check that and make sure you know what you're doing before trying this
Some widebands have multiple outputs and you can program the controller to simulate narrow band outputs on one (or more) of the outputs. The LC-1's let you do this. I never tried it, but if the narrow band simulation's signal was compatible with what the ECU needs to do its magic, it might save you from getting a bung welded in and just swapping the front NB for the WB, route output #2 to the NB ECU input, and output #1 to your WB gauge.
IIRC, the yellow wire in the LC-1 is the analog output #1 and is pre-programmed to simulate narrowband output, and the brown wire is analog output #2, which is used for wideband data logging. Please double check that and make sure you know what you're doing before trying this
IIRC, the yellow wire in the LC-1 is the analog output #1 and is pre-programmed to simulate narrowband output, and the brown wire is analog output #2, which is used for wideband data logging. Please double check that and make sure you know what you're doing before trying this

you can - but to be honest I have never found the LC1 reliable enough to replace the main NB sensor..
that said after I had it wired correctly etc it has become a lot better..
that said after I had it wired correctly etc it has become a lot better..
i did this a while ago when my front o2 died and mitsu in perth quoted me a RIDICULOUS replacement cost. seems to work fine. i'll prob end up just replacing the OEM narrowband when i can find one for a reasonable price. here's the thread https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ge...da-sensor.html



