sounds like a 1g

 

Hey guys,

I've driven the car for some time now and have a little update. I will post again in a week to see if my impressions have changed.

With the CDV out, the 1-->2 notchy shift is completely gone when the tranny is warm. In fact the only shift that has any more notchiness to it is the 2-->3 shift.

The 2-->3 shift is better but still a little sticky. Please keep in mind that I never had that much of a nocthiness issue from the beginning, sure it was notchy (more so when cold) but never made me miss a shift and never caused a grind.

Speed shifting is a non issue. I can shift without letting off the throttle if I desire.


launching (moderate launch):

Still smell clutch, still having a difficult time finding a good slip rate to get a good brisk launch yet not get the smell.


Overall clutch feel:

Here's where I'll get a little technical. I will preface this by stating that I am in no way a mechanical engineer or clutch expert. I do however have tons of clutch removal and overall experience.

There still feels to be a large transition from full disengagement to full engagement. What do I mean by that? Well, from a stop I can feel the clutch start to grab very early on...maybe 2" off the floor. When cruising, you simply need to depress the clutch maybe 1-2" from the top of the clutch pedal stroke to get it to slip.

This tells me that the clutch disk may have ALOT of marcel to it. Marcel is the wavy spring material between the friction surface and the actual clutch disk hub. The marcel is designed to cushion loads, and make it easier to slip the clutch. This is great for novices, but really bad for enthusiast.

To understand this, think of the first time you went from a stock clutch to a race clutch...didn't you notice how the race clutch had more of an off/on feel to it?

Mitsu, in my opinion, has chosen to design the clutch so even your 80yr old grandmother or 15yr old brother can equally drive the car smoothly.

So for all you X owners, pay attention to the clutch pedal stroke and when it starts to engage and when it it full engaged. Also check to see where it starts to slip while cruising. You will see what I'm talking about.

I believe this is what makes it difficult to launch. As the pressure plate starts to clamp, we slip the clutch, add throttle to go, but guess what, because of the marcel, the pressure plate is not fully clamped until almost completely at the top of the clutch pedal stroke. that is why we smell the clutch.

I am hoping ACT will chime in and confirm my theories...someone invite them to the thread would ya?

 

Thanks for the update I will be removing mine this weekend.

 

Great! post your impressions as well, let's see if we have the same results.

 

Thanks for having us in mind.

As you said, it could be the marcel causing the long half-engaged zone you describe but I didn't notice any significant difference when I looked at the parts. I heard that the m/c is plastic now or is it just the non-adjustable rod at the m/c that is plastic? In any case additional deflection may also be the culprit due to a more flexible linkage.

Just a warning: It could also be warped surfaces from abusing the clutch. I know you have been trying some launches and smelled clutch on a few occasions. All it takes is one good OOPS and then the clutch takes more travel to disengage completely due to warped surfaces.

 

Hey Dirk,

Thats for your response. Yes the M/C is plastic as well as the linkage rod. I am fairly confident that I haven't warped anything. It takes very little to produce the clutch smell. Also as soon as I felt it slipping I would let off. I don't keep the fun pedal down on a slipping clutch

The marcel in the X clutch is the same as the IX? I haven't driven mayy evo's but have driven loads of DSM's. What is different clutch wise between the evo and dsm? Could it be the pull syle PP causing the long travel?

 

I can't answer you at the moment about the marcel, but if there is any difference at all, it is slight. The difference between the push type dsm versus the pull type EVO is like night and day. A pull type is a lot more efficient and generally takes less travel to operate due to reduced deflection (flex). This efficiency makes it easier for the automakers to keep the pedal effort low on high powered cars. The EVO disc is 240mm while the DSM is 225mm.

 

Where ?

 

LOL, I just edited the dup post about three times.

 

Huh, that is completely opposite of what I'm experiecing. My Dsm clutches required far less travel to operate. I guess I'll just save some money for your HD street clutch then and buy it when the stocker dies

 

A lot has to do with the internal geometry of the pressure plate. The EVO has far less mechanical advantage than the DSM and this allows for a broader working range (more clamp load over more appreciable wear). The stock 2200lb EVO clutch also probably feels softer than our 2100lb DSM clutch. Our 3150lb HD EVO p/pl definitely feels lighter than our 2900lb DSM clutch and for sure has a much broader working range.

 

Hey guys,

Well I've driven for 4 days since my last impression post. I take back what I've said. The 1-2 shift still notchy! 2-3 still notchy as well. Launch is better though...slightly.

I have contacted Mitsu corporate and they want me to bring the car in. I urge everyone with tranny shifting issues to contact Mitsu corporate ASAP to get the ball rolling. While it may not seem bad, I feel that it might be wearing the syncro's hub/sleeve, so this might cause long-term damage.

I also notice that downshifts are much smoother than upshifts...whatever that means.

At this time I have to re-insert the CDV so that Mitsu won't use it against me. I will most likely take it back out as I feel the pedal is more linear without it.

 

Yup the downshifts are very smooth for me, its the upshift from 1-2 and2-3 that are giving me problems.

any ways whats their number?

 

When I spoke with mitsu corporate they told me that the notchiness is normal and isn't hurting anything. They also said that the tranny is designed for quick, decisive shifts, which result inmuch smoother shifting. This has proven true on my car, as it seems to like speed shifts, regardless of rpm and speed of clutch disengagement/engagement. Once the car is warmed up, just shift quickly and decisively and it will go in with a smooth click. I don't really think that it's a problem, but if it is then that's what a warranty is for. There may be a fix later for this, and when it comes out I'm all for it. But, in the meantime my car shifts great if shifted quickly so it doesn't really bother me too much anymore. Plus, I'd rather wait for the fix to be determined and sent out to the dealerships as a TSB for a clear cut step by step fix for the techs to follow. I am not at all cool with some half wit tech tearing apart my brand new car. I have seen the way that even some of the master techs work on cars, and the lack of respect for people's cars just shocks me. I am VERY hesitant to let anyone work on my car, even if it is at a dealership. So go take your's in and see if they can find a fix, but mine is staying in my possession until that fix is released as a TSB.

 

I'm glad I've read the updates. I'm not pulling the restrictor, it will just be something they can use against me. I will, however, try BG Synchroshift the next time I'm down at the shop, or a cocktail of it and the OEM stuff. I have money on this helping.