Well i finally hit the 1000mi mark in my evo this past weekend so I begun flogging it around a little, only to be horribly disappointed with how the engine ran above 5k rpms. What seemed to be a fairly smooth and powerful engine all went to hell as the engine neared redline and I actually began to regret my purchase.

Since there are currently no tuning options available I figured id give the cone air filter mod a try just to see if maybe I could trick the car into running leaner. $25 and 15min later I reset my ecu and took the car for a spin around the block. To my amazement the car pulled linearly all the way to redline without the sporadic bursts of power I noticed with the stock airbox in. All i can say is that this is the best $25 I have ever spent and will definitely allow me to drive my evo happily until more tuning options emerge on the market. The only downside (or upside) to this mod is that the turbo and bypass valve are significantly more audible.

 

leaner is better lol.

i'm sure once the tuning because readly available it will surprise you

 

Im not saying it wont. I traded in my vishnu tuned stage 1+ evo8 mr for the X. All im claiming is that this silly looking air filter makes the X something thats drivable as we wait for an accessport/proceed etc.

 

I did this and I love the sound now. It is so damn quiet when the stock air filter is on. Though I sitll get massive lag past 5k. Did maybe the ECU reset have anything to do with it? How do I reset the ECU?

 

i am sure disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery for a few minuets should do it

 

Thanks, will do.

 

Disconnect your negative terminal and hold down the brake for a few seconds.

 

What, exactly, does that do?

 

Well on my subaru it drained every last bit of stored energy in the cars electrical system. As soon as you hit the brake even the odometer numbers disappeared. Its a common ecu-reset technique on the wrx and it appears to work well on the evo also.

 

How did you mount it to the MAF and make the openings match?

I just got a Works drop in myself. Got 10whp across the high parts of the rev range.

 

I un-hooked the battery for about 40 minutes. When I un-hooked it I held the brake down for about 10 seconds. Everything seems ok. The idle seems to have improved but nothing else up top really...so far that I can tell. The intake is a good temporary fix. Thanks.

 

Its in the DIY section. Just unbolt the airbox and bolt the cone filter on to the flange.

 

I find it strange that there dyno results are out of this world with just a drop in!? Compared to a cone style that puts down 10WHP MAX the drop in claims 27WHP???

 

has anyone tried a cone vs. drop in filter comparison???

 

I did a write-up on the Cone filter. I wasnt happy with my results though. I noticed boost loss (1psi), and the timing ran more retarded. I, however, did not reset my ECU. In the long term, the drop in filter will be the most ideal, since it keeps the air flow over the MAF linear, and not so turbulent. Perrin has a great writeup on the effects of the cone filter when going to a tuned solution.