If you didn't reset the ECU, the DTC will be in memory, even with no light. Pull the code so we can help you.

 

How can I pull the code? Do I just use a regular OBD2 scanner?

 

Yes. You can do it when the car is running if you want. These new CAN based ECUs pop up instantly, no waiting.

 

I am going to check it out first thing tomorrow and see what shows.

 

+1

Just because it did not happen before that day does not mean it did not happen on that day.

That or you've got a nice leak at the downpipe as someone else mentiond. Are you sure you tighted up the springbolts all the way to the shoulder? That would cause the ecu to over fuel. A good indicator of this would be fuel trims going a good bit positive at idel and cruize.

 

check the fuses on the positive battery connection, not likely but you could have burnt a fuse. its worth at least looking at.

 

Well Finally got the car back from the body shop a few days ago and finally got to take it to autozone to check the codes.
Here are the codes that came up.......

P0137
P0131
P0102

Any help on what I should do to fix this problem is greatly appreciated.

 

P0137 - low circuit voltage rear 02 sensor

P0131 - low circuit voltage front 02 sensor

P0102 - is a MAF cicuit low voltage

I could be off with these, but that's what my book said. I don't know what else would cause these, but I'd start checking O2 sensors and your MAF sensor. Make sure the harnesses are completely plugged in, make sure nothing is shorting to ground, etc...

 

Checked everything and it all seem fine. All clips were connected and installed properly. Do you think it is something that has to be corrected with ECUtek??

Here is what the print out from auto zone says.......

P0102-
"The PCM has determined that the mass air flow input is lower then expected for the current engine operating conditions."

Definition:
MAP/ Baro or MAF sensor condition

Explanation:
All Vehicles have one or more of these components. Engine load or the air volume entering the engine is measured by these components. The computer has recognized a return signal error.


P0131-
"The PCM has determined that the input voltage from oxygen sensor 1 in bank 1 is too low for current operating condition. (Oxygen sensor 1 is closest to the cylinder head before the catalytic converter. While oxygen sensor 2 & 3 are located further downstream and are typically mounted in or after the catalytic converter) (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1, while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank)"

Definition:
H02S-11 low voltage (Heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1)

Explanation:
The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the air/fuel ratio in the exhaust. The computer is receiving a low voltage indicating the system has a high content of oxygen.


P0137-
"The PCM has determined that the input voltage from oxygen sensor 2 in bank 1 is too low for current operating condition. (Oxygen sensor 1 is closest to the cylinder head before the catalytic converter. While oxygen sensor 2 & 3 are located further downstream and are typically mounted in or after the catalytic converter) (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1, while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank)"

Definition:
H02S-12 circuit condition (Heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2)

Explanation:
The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the air/fuel ratio in the exhaust.

 

No, I don' t think it is anything to do with the tune.

Sounds like a boost / vacume leak, as others have already mentioned, at least the maf signal low code. If the engine is sucking in unmetered air (pulling in air behind the air flow meter) from a large "hole" there won't be enough flow for the meter to register and you will be running very lean.

Lean condition from above could cause the 131 and 137 codes, as could a large exhaust leak at the turbo outlet to down pipe connection, also as other have mentioned already. Another possible cause for the 131 and 137 would be tht the signal wires from both 02 sensors got cut, but that is VERY unlikely.

If the above are not the issues then you have an electrical problem that you will need to get sorted asap.

In fact, regardless of the problem, you really need to get the issues sorted before you continue to drive the car.

 

Not to chime in late...but I also have the UR DP and TP-had the TP installed when I installed the CBE, and threw a CEL for the rear O2, and a Fuel Pump Regulator code-that prompted me to take it off and wait for a tune with the TP (and a FMIC) installed. I've heard great things about UR, but there will be the 10% that have issues, you and I are the 10% (look on the bright side....for a while at least).
I'm waiting for a tune/base line runs to see what the Tp+dp are gaining, and hoping that any "issues" that arise from the install can be solved at the dyno.
Sorry to hear about the probs!

 

That makes sense to me. I would start by checking the breather bungs on the intake. If one of those hoses poped off that could cause the problem dyno4mance described. (I had a cap fall off an intake nipple of my VIII one time and caused issues.) And make sure the intake is secured tightly to the compressor. Are you still using the stock diverter valve or did you go with an aftermarket BOV? Make sure the BOV line to the intake is secured.

And finally, check all of your intercooler pipe hoses. These things do blow off quite often.

 

Well got to check everything to make sure they were on and made sure that everything was nicely secured and tight. Car has the stock diverter valve, made sure everything moved or touched when putting in the cone filter was nice and tight and everything is fine.
I put the car on the lift and disconnected the battery before I started working on the car. I first checked for any exhaust leave by ear and heard nothing then I tried to see if I can feel something and didn't and I even used soap and water to see if I can see anything and nothing. Decided to then take everything off and check the gaskets to see if I can see a leak or something and everything looked fine. I re-installed everything, made sure everything was nice and tight and reconnected the battery and as soon as I started the car the "service engine soon" light was on. I can't figure out whats going on. Any help or suggestions is appreciated. I also checked all intercooler pipes and vacuum hoses and everything is fine. Could it be that since I got it tuned before the DP and TP, that I would need to having something done again since they are on there now???

 

Checked both those today since my thought was exactly that the down pipe was loose or not installed right since it is a hard place to get to but when I checked soap and water, with a sheet of paper to see if it moved and by hand nothing seemed to show that there was a leak in that area. Even when I took everything off I check the donut gasket to make sure it wasn't broken or anything and it was fine. I checked all the wires to the o2 sensors to make sure nothing got cut or even burnt by the exhaust and everything was 100% fine.
So I am still unsure on what is happening..... IF lets say the problem by any chance was corrected would the "service engine soon" light still be on even if I disconnected the battery?
Cause last time when the light came on and left the battery terminal off for a while and put it back on I started the car and the light was off and car drove fine for a while and then the light came back. Now even after leaving the battery terminal off for a while, as soon as I turn the car on the light is on.

 

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on what might be causing the problem and what I can do to fix it?

This is my daily driver and I really hate driving around with the car feeling like crap and having that light on.