UR Down pipe & Test pipe.... small problem
Your K&N filter, wasn't there a problem with the fan blowing air onto open filters in the filter causing it to run like crap. Correct me if i'm wrong but was it burshur or some other company that found this out
Checked both those today since my thought was exactly that the down pipe was loose or not installed right since it is a hard place to get to but when I checked soap and water, with a sheet of paper to see if it moved and by hand nothing seemed to show that there was a leak in that area. Even when I took everything off I check the donut gasket to make sure it wasn't broken or anything and it was fine. I checked all the wires to the o2 sensors to make sure nothing got cut or even burnt by the exhaust and everything was 100% fine.
So I am still unsure on what is happening..... IF lets say the problem by any chance was corrected would the "service engine soon" light still be on even if I disconnected the battery?
Cause last time when the light came on and left the battery terminal off for a while and put it back on I started the car and the light was off and car drove fine for a while and then the light came back. Now even after leaving the battery terminal off for a while, as soon as I turn the car on the light is on.
So I am still unsure on what is happening..... IF lets say the problem by any chance was corrected would the "service engine soon" light still be on even if I disconnected the battery?
Cause last time when the light came on and left the battery terminal off for a while and put it back on I started the car and the light was off and car drove fine for a while and then the light came back. Now even after leaving the battery terminal off for a while, as soon as I turn the car on the light is on.
You really need a good code reader, one that can monitor params real time, like fuel trims, maf output, etc etc. If it threw a code right away I would be looking at a problem with one of the sensors, starting with the maf and it's associated wiring. If there is another 10 in your area, see if you can barrow a maf for a few minutes.
I'll tell you the simplest cause of these problems would be that when you plugged the maf back in, it did not click home all the way. The more I think about it, the more I think you need to start at the maf and work from there. If I have time I'll take a peak at the manual and see if the maf, F02, and R02 share the same voltage supply.
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Interesting..... I suppose it's possible that the 02 sensors and maf share the same supply voltage. Might want to start checking fuses, clean all the plugs with terminal cleaner. Did you install an intake? Make sure the maf sensor is installed the right way around if so.
You really need a good code reader, one that can monitor params real time, like fuel trims, maf output, etc etc. If it threw a code right away I would be looking at a problem with one of the sensors, starting with the maf and it's associated wiring. If there is another 10 in your area, see if you can barrow a maf for a few minutes.
You really need a good code reader, one that can monitor params real time, like fuel trims, maf output, etc etc. If it threw a code right away I would be looking at a problem with one of the sensors, starting with the maf and it's associated wiring. If there is another 10 in your area, see if you can barrow a maf for a few minutes.
I dont really have an intake just a K&N cone filter so I never really touched the MAF sensor, but the filter was on the car for a while and was on when tuned and I didnt have no problems. Once I installed the DP and TP is when I started having problems.
I'll tell you the simplest cause of these problems would be that when you plugged the maf back in, it did not click home all the way. The more I think about it, the more I think you need to start at the maf and work from there. If I have time I'll take a peak at the manual and see if the maf, F02, and R02 share the same voltage supply.
As for the hot air on the intakes...I've been running mine for 6 months and occasionally have the issue with the AC on...not a reg./consistant prob like he's describing.
There could be a leak on the DP/TP. Does the soapy water trick work on exhaust?
Worse case....back to stock and a dealer visit....worst case.....
There could be a leak on the DP/TP. Does the soapy water trick work on exhaust?
Worse case....back to stock and a dealer visit....worst case.....
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As for the hot air on the intakes...I've been running mine for 6 months and occasionally have the issue with the AC on...not a reg./consistant prob like he's describing.
There could be a leak on the DP/TP. Does the soapy water trick work on exhaust?
Worse case....back to stock and a dealer visit....worst case.....
There could be a leak on the DP/TP. Does the soapy water trick work on exhaust?
Worse case....back to stock and a dealer visit....worst case.....
That is what I am trying to avoid the most, of going to the dealer but that would be my very very very last option.
Checked all fuses and relays and everything good. Someone on another forum suggested me add a cel eliminator to bring the O2 further away and see if that works so that will be done first thing tomorrow. Any more thoughts and what I should check or do is appreciated. I am trying to do as much as possible to find the problem until time comes to see Ivey, if I can't find it by then, then hopefully he'll find it
O.K. did a little digging in the manual tonight.
P0102. For this to be set, the output voltage of the maf must be lower than 0.2v for more than 3 seconds, this corresponds to 0 grams/second of airflow.
P0131. Same as above but for front 02 sensor and voltage must be less than 0.2v for 2 seconds.
P0137. Same as above but for rear 02.
Maf and 02 sensors are on different grounds and different supply. There is a 20 amp fuse for the maf. If the maf is totaly failed (for whatever reason) that could cause the 02 sensor codes as well.
Time to check the fuses and then replace the maf or borrow a maf from someone.
P0102. For this to be set, the output voltage of the maf must be lower than 0.2v for more than 3 seconds, this corresponds to 0 grams/second of airflow.
P0131. Same as above but for front 02 sensor and voltage must be less than 0.2v for 2 seconds.
P0137. Same as above but for rear 02.
Maf and 02 sensors are on different grounds and different supply. There is a 20 amp fuse for the maf. If the maf is totaly failed (for whatever reason) that could cause the 02 sensor codes as well.
Time to check the fuses and then replace the maf or borrow a maf from someone.
1. Boost leak test
2. replace the maf
Last edited by Dyno4mance; Jul 30, 2008 at 07:19 PM.
I put the Ultimate Racing DP and TP on my X as well as a Greddy TI-C catback. One of the places I ran into a snag was with the rear o2 sensor. I unplugged it from under the passenger seat and removed the cat from the car to make the o2 easier to remove. If you did the same with the front or rear o2 you know how difficult the plugs can be to get to.
When I reinstalled everything I pulled the battery to reset the ecu then took it for a test drive. Everything was fine until I turned the car off and restarted it then I had a CEL. The car ran great even with the CEL and i assumed it was due to the CEL fix on the TP not working and causing it to "see" there was no cat.
Few days later when I got some time I checked over my install again and found that either during unplugging or replugging of the rear o2 i had pushed a wire out of the plug on the wire harness side. I had to remove the seat to get the wire plugged back in but as soon as i pulled the battery and took it for a test drive i had no CEL!
Also if you removed the o2's on the car is it possible you twisted the wires too tight and it could be a short within the grey wire shielding?
Hope this helps and best of luck.
When I reinstalled everything I pulled the battery to reset the ecu then took it for a test drive. Everything was fine until I turned the car off and restarted it then I had a CEL. The car ran great even with the CEL and i assumed it was due to the CEL fix on the TP not working and causing it to "see" there was no cat.
Few days later when I got some time I checked over my install again and found that either during unplugging or replugging of the rear o2 i had pushed a wire out of the plug on the wire harness side. I had to remove the seat to get the wire plugged back in but as soon as i pulled the battery and took it for a test drive i had no CEL!
Also if you removed the o2's on the car is it possible you twisted the wires too tight and it could be a short within the grey wire shielding?
Hope this helps and best of luck.
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Also is there any way to check if the MAF is not working with maybe a tester of some sort? Just trying to check the car out as early as possible and dont know too many people with a X around my area, so dont really want to depend on anyone.
I put the Ultimate Racing DP and TP on my X as well as a Greddy TI-C catback. One of the places I ran into a snag was with the rear o2 sensor. I unplugged it from under the passenger seat and removed the cat from the car to make the o2 easier to remove. If you did the same with the front or rear o2 you know how difficult the plugs can be to get to.
When I reinstalled everything I pulled the battery to reset the ecu then took it for a test drive. Everything was fine until I turned the car off and restarted it then I had a CEL. The car ran great even with the CEL and i assumed it was due to the CEL fix on the TP not working and causing it to "see" there was no cat.
Few days later when I got some time I checked over my install again and found that either during unplugging or replugging of the rear o2 i had pushed a wire out of the plug on the wire harness side. I had to remove the seat to get the wire plugged back in but as soon as i pulled the battery and took it for a test drive i had no CEL!
Also if you removed the o2's on the car is it possible you twisted the wires too tight and it could be a short within the grey wire shielding?
Hope this helps and best of luck.
When I reinstalled everything I pulled the battery to reset the ecu then took it for a test drive. Everything was fine until I turned the car off and restarted it then I had a CEL. The car ran great even with the CEL and i assumed it was due to the CEL fix on the TP not working and causing it to "see" there was no cat.
Few days later when I got some time I checked over my install again and found that either during unplugging or replugging of the rear o2 i had pushed a wire out of the plug on the wire harness side. I had to remove the seat to get the wire plugged back in but as soon as i pulled the battery and took it for a test drive i had no CEL!
Also if you removed the o2's on the car is it possible you twisted the wires too tight and it could be a short within the grey wire shielding?
Hope this helps and best of luck.
did you install this setup yourself? you might have a leak somewhere and dont know it. i'd take it to a muffler shop and have them listen for a leak where you did the dp tp. they have a listening tool kinda like what the doctor uses to listen to your heartbeat. and you probably need a cel fix. just because the tp has a bung for the O2 sensor doesnt mean that it would fix it. buy the cel fix for $30 jus for added security
theres like 2 limp modes, the first one will make the car feel like its only getting 50% power even when floored. The car will feel slow.
the 2nd limp mode is miserable. Feels like 10% power, wont go over 3000 rpm, and the pedal will completely disconnect from the throttle plate for up to 5 seconds at a time if you let off the gas or hit 3k rpm
the 2nd limp mode is miserable. Feels like 10% power, wont go over 3000 rpm, and the pedal will completely disconnect from the throttle plate for up to 5 seconds at a time if you let off the gas or hit 3k rpm
I would listen to what dyno4mance is saying with the MAF sensor. An exhaust leak may cause O2 sensor problems but how would this affect the MAFS? It wouldn't. A MAFS issue could cause all kinds of AFR issues and trigger O2 sensor problems. I think the codes are all related and not just coincidental.


