About a month ago, my engine started to rev up whenever I pressed on the gas pedal to accelerate(not flooring it but not just cruising either, medium strength). It would climb to about 5000 rpm and it seemed like there is like a half of a second lag til the clutch grabs the gears and the rpm would drop back down to 3000 and the car would start pushing and accelerate like it should.

I considered it to be a minor problem since my car accelerated fast enough like it should so I ignored it till this week. This week, I noticed that my car wouldn't accelerate well on the 1st gear when I wasn't even trying to accelerate fast. I pulled out of a parking spot, but i had to be at 4000-5000 rpm to reach 10 mph and it took like 5 seconds to reach that speed. The slipping grew significantly over one night even though I drove it carefully.

One another thing that shocked me was that my car doesn't stall anymore.
Even though I am on first gear(later, I checked that it doesn't stall on any gear, including reverse) and my clutch pedal is not pressed and I am not moving at all(I have my foot on the brake pedal), the engine is still on and revving at 900rpm-ish.
However, I can still start my car.

Is my clutch worn out?

 

Sounds like your clutch is slipping like you suspect, but not sure on the call not stalling part.

 

yeah buddy your clutch has defiantly bit the dust, get a new clutch soon and have it installed by a respectable shop near you, before long you wont be able to drive your car at all!, dont go to the dealer unless you want to get raped in the but!!

 

I just found out that my car started moving forward when I let go of the clutch on 1st gear and backward on reverse. Even though I did not apply any gas, the car started to move. But it still doesn't stall like it should when I let go of my clutch fast without applying gas.

Is it normal for a worn out clutch to do what my car is doing?

like not stalling?

or can it be some other problem?

 

yeah i had that happening to me and i had TTP install the ACT 6 puck and the ACT streetlight flywheel and the problem stopped but no it is WAY harder to drive the car

 

clutch is done man - start looking for a good shop before you cant drive the car anymore

 

Would the repair shop that I go to change engine oil be able to change clutch too?

And what kind of clutch would you guys recommend?
For daily driving with few racing here and there on the street.
And for longer clutch life.

I only have 14k on the car. I need to get a clutch that would last for way longer than that. Haha.

 

they might but if i were you i would find a place that know how to tune evo's and does it on a regular basis

 

shouldnt the stock clutch last longer then 14k miles???

 

If you're in So. Cal, go to Road Race Engineering.

I hate to tell you though, you're doing something seriously wrong to wear out the clutch in 14k. Or you're just launching all over the place. Or a combination of both.

 

My previous Evo 8 had 40K miles when I sold it. Clutch was still like new. Some guys had the same problem as you; wear it out around 10k or so. All depends on how you drive because the clutch, just like brake pads, is designed to wear out. If you are hard on the car day in and day out this will happen much sooner. If I was into serious drag starts and stoplight racing I would not buy an Evo and would seriously consider an automatic Mustang GT. Those things are sturdy.

 

mitsubishi cars are equiped with terrible clutche's

 

The stock clutch will not last if you drive the car the way it was meant to be driven. DO NOT!! I REPEAT DO NOT!! go to the dealer. At the cheapest you are looking at 1500 for the clutch. They will try and replace the flywheel too. Don't fall for that crap, most of the time you can resurface a flywheel. I am on my third cluctch already. My exedy failed so I had to go back to stock in a pinch..and that 'ish wasn't cheap either. I am not knocking exedy, but stay away from the stage II if it is your daily driver. You might want to go with a twin disc. Wish you the best of luck bro. I having a slipping clutch can be a pain in the ****..

 

You don't recommend stage II?
how about ACT performance heavy duty clutch?
2900lb

 

A flywheel is an important replacement part if the stock unit has developed hotspots. The ACT streetlite and prolite units are also lighter which reduces unsprung weight and allows the engine to rev faster.

Cutting a flywheel is not always compatible as if you can see purple heat marks through the flywheel into the back side of it, then its too warped and has gotten too hot for us to feel comfortable putting back in a car.

Furthermore, depending on the damage done to the mating surface, there are times that TOO MUCH material has to be removed that it will negatively affect the throw of the release fork and TOB. It can take it out of its normal travel range and make engagement very difficult.