Clutch GONE...Mitsubishi wont cover it.
Evolved Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,849
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From: USA
To the OP: First off, mitsu isn't any worse than any other manufacturer when it comes to warranty work; THEY ALL SUCK. Subaru wouldn't cover the clutch in my STi when it went out from lauching the car at autox events (even though they didn't know that), but I wouldn't expect them to. AWD cars aren't meant to be launched on stock clutches. These are road race cars and the clutch holds up just fine for that. I think part of the problem is that you think you can drive an AWD car like a RWD car. In a RWD car, when you launch it, the energy is transfered to the wheels and they spin, thus little to no damage is done to the clutch and driveline.
In an AWD car, there is so much grip that the wheels don't want to break loose and the shock has to go somewhere, so what do you think happens? Something has to give, and the clutch is what gives. If you upgrade the clutch to one that has a higher clamp load that won't slip on hard launches like the stock one does, then the shock will be eaten up by your transfer case now instead. Launching technique becomes even more important at that point because if you don't slip the clutch and just pop it, then ****'s gonna break and mitsu won't cover that either.
Why? Because it's abuse. Now, I'm not going to tell you that you don't know how to drive like some other people on here because I'm sure that's probably not the case and I understand how you feel. However, I will say this: you can't drive an AWD car the same as you do a RWD or FWD car and I think you have a lot to learn about this. Even with speed shifting, you've probably noticed that when banging gears, especially from first to second, that it feels real lurchy. This is because in a RWD car, when you bang second off quickly the rear tires will bark, again transfering the driveline shock to the wheels alleviating the stress.
In an AWD car, there is too much grip and the wheels can't "bark," so the shock is kept in the driveline and thus the "lurch." You have to let the clutch out a bit slower when speed shifting into second to prevent this, but if you get it right then it should still be quite fast and a lot smoother. 3rd through 5th doesn't matter as much, but again, you just have to learn how to drive an AWD car. If you want to road race the car, then you'll have no problems. If you want to drag the car, then you have to realize that ****s gonna break and you're going to have to upgrade components that you otherwise wouldn't have to.
In an AWD car, there is so much grip that the wheels don't want to break loose and the shock has to go somewhere, so what do you think happens? Something has to give, and the clutch is what gives. If you upgrade the clutch to one that has a higher clamp load that won't slip on hard launches like the stock one does, then the shock will be eaten up by your transfer case now instead. Launching technique becomes even more important at that point because if you don't slip the clutch and just pop it, then ****'s gonna break and mitsu won't cover that either.
Why? Because it's abuse. Now, I'm not going to tell you that you don't know how to drive like some other people on here because I'm sure that's probably not the case and I understand how you feel. However, I will say this: you can't drive an AWD car the same as you do a RWD or FWD car and I think you have a lot to learn about this. Even with speed shifting, you've probably noticed that when banging gears, especially from first to second, that it feels real lurchy. This is because in a RWD car, when you bang second off quickly the rear tires will bark, again transfering the driveline shock to the wheels alleviating the stress.
In an AWD car, there is too much grip and the wheels can't "bark," so the shock is kept in the driveline and thus the "lurch." You have to let the clutch out a bit slower when speed shifting into second to prevent this, but if you get it right then it should still be quite fast and a lot smoother. 3rd through 5th doesn't matter as much, but again, you just have to learn how to drive an AWD car. If you want to road race the car, then you'll have no problems. If you want to drag the car, then you have to realize that ****s gonna break and you're going to have to upgrade components that you otherwise wouldn't have to.
this is going in my sig because its absolutly true
Last edited by Chabada15; Nov 21, 2008 at 01:11 PM.
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
From: Nor-Cali
you can burn the stock clucth in 10 miles if you drive it like a retard... the mitsu warranty should not be up on the chopping block... however, we must ***** and moan about the fact that the clutch cant really handle the power the car puts down (stock)... which i feel is a major problem if or not they are covering under warranty...
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
From: Nor-Cali
To the OP: First off, mitsu isn't any worse than any other manufacturer when it comes to warranty work; THEY ALL SUCK. Subaru wouldn't cover the clutch in my STi when it went out from lauching the car at autox events (even though they didn't know that), but I wouldn't expect them to. AWD cars aren't meant to be launched on stock clutches. These are road race cars and the clutch holds up just fine for that. I think part of the problem is that you think you can drive an AWD car like a RWD car. In a RWD car, when you launch it, the energy is transfered to the wheels and they spin, thus little to no damage is done to the clutch and driveline.
In an AWD car, there is so much grip that the wheels don't want to break loose and the shock has to go somewhere, so what do you think happens? Something has to give, and the clutch is what gives. If you upgrade the clutch to one that has a higher clamp load that won't slip on hard launches like the stock one does, then the shock will be eaten up by your transfer case now instead. Launching technique becomes even more important at that point because if you don't slip the clutch and just pop it, then ****'s gonna break and mitsu won't cover that either.
Why? Because it's abuse. Now, I'm not going to tell you that you don't know how to drive like some other people on here because I'm sure that's probably not the case and I understand how you feel. However, I will say this: you can't drive an AWD car the same as you do a RWD or FWD car and I think you have a lot to learn about this. Even with speed shifting, you've probably noticed that when banging gears, especially from first to second, that it feels real lurchy. This is because in a RWD car, when you bang second off quickly the rear tires will bark, again transfering the driveline shock to the wheels alleviating the stress.
In an AWD car, there is too much grip and the wheels can't "bark," so the shock is kept in the driveline and thus the "lurch." You have to let the clutch out a bit slower when speed shifting into second to prevent this, but if you get it right then it should still be quite fast and a lot smoother. 3rd through 5th doesn't matter as much, but again, you just have to learn how to drive an AWD car. If you want to road race the car, then you'll have no problems. If you want to drag the car, then you have to realize that ****s gonna break and you're going to have to upgrade components that you otherwise wouldn't have to.
In an AWD car, there is so much grip that the wheels don't want to break loose and the shock has to go somewhere, so what do you think happens? Something has to give, and the clutch is what gives. If you upgrade the clutch to one that has a higher clamp load that won't slip on hard launches like the stock one does, then the shock will be eaten up by your transfer case now instead. Launching technique becomes even more important at that point because if you don't slip the clutch and just pop it, then ****'s gonna break and mitsu won't cover that either.
Why? Because it's abuse. Now, I'm not going to tell you that you don't know how to drive like some other people on here because I'm sure that's probably not the case and I understand how you feel. However, I will say this: you can't drive an AWD car the same as you do a RWD or FWD car and I think you have a lot to learn about this. Even with speed shifting, you've probably noticed that when banging gears, especially from first to second, that it feels real lurchy. This is because in a RWD car, when you bang second off quickly the rear tires will bark, again transfering the driveline shock to the wheels alleviating the stress.
In an AWD car, there is too much grip and the wheels can't "bark," so the shock is kept in the driveline and thus the "lurch." You have to let the clutch out a bit slower when speed shifting into second to prevent this, but if you get it right then it should still be quite fast and a lot smoother. 3rd through 5th doesn't matter as much, but again, you just have to learn how to drive an AWD car. If you want to road race the car, then you'll have no problems. If you want to drag the car, then you have to realize that ****s gonna break and you're going to have to upgrade components that you otherwise wouldn't have to.
Evolved Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,571
Likes: 0
From: Rhode Island
To the OP: First off, mitsu isn't any worse than any other manufacturer when it comes to warranty work; THEY ALL SUCK. Subaru wouldn't cover the clutch in my STi when it went out from lauching the car at autox events (even though they didn't know that), but I wouldn't expect them to. AWD cars aren't meant to be launched on stock clutches. These are road race cars and the clutch holds up just fine for that. I think part of the problem is that you think you can drive an AWD car like a RWD car. In a RWD car, when you launch it, the energy is transfered to the wheels and they spin, thus little to no damage is done to the clutch and driveline.
In an AWD car, there is so much grip that the wheels don't want to break loose and the shock has to go somewhere, so what do you think happens? Something has to give, and the clutch is what gives. If you upgrade the clutch to one that has a higher clamp load that won't slip on hard launches like the stock one does, then the shock will be eaten up by your transfer case now instead. Launching technique becomes even more important at that point because if you don't slip the clutch and just pop it, then ****'s gonna break and mitsu won't cover that either.
Why? Because it's abuse. Now, I'm not going to tell you that you don't know how to drive like some other people on here because I'm sure that's probably not the case and I understand how you feel. However, I will say this: you can't drive an AWD car the same as you do a RWD or FWD car and I think you have a lot to learn about this. Even with speed shifting, you've probably noticed that when banging gears, especially from first to second, that it feels real lurchy. This is because in a RWD car, when you bang second off quickly the rear tires will bark, again transfering the driveline shock to the wheels alleviating the stress.
In an AWD car, there is too much grip and the wheels can't "bark," so the shock is kept in the driveline and thus the "lurch." You have to let the clutch out a bit slower when speed shifting into second to prevent this, but if you get it right then it should still be quite fast and a lot smoother. 3rd through 5th doesn't matter as much, but again, you just have to learn how to drive an AWD car. If you want to road race the car, then you'll have no problems. If you want to drag the car, then you have to realize that ****s gonna break and you're going to have to upgrade components that you otherwise wouldn't have to.
In an AWD car, there is so much grip that the wheels don't want to break loose and the shock has to go somewhere, so what do you think happens? Something has to give, and the clutch is what gives. If you upgrade the clutch to one that has a higher clamp load that won't slip on hard launches like the stock one does, then the shock will be eaten up by your transfer case now instead. Launching technique becomes even more important at that point because if you don't slip the clutch and just pop it, then ****'s gonna break and mitsu won't cover that either.
Why? Because it's abuse. Now, I'm not going to tell you that you don't know how to drive like some other people on here because I'm sure that's probably not the case and I understand how you feel. However, I will say this: you can't drive an AWD car the same as you do a RWD or FWD car and I think you have a lot to learn about this. Even with speed shifting, you've probably noticed that when banging gears, especially from first to second, that it feels real lurchy. This is because in a RWD car, when you bang second off quickly the rear tires will bark, again transfering the driveline shock to the wheels alleviating the stress.
In an AWD car, there is too much grip and the wheels can't "bark," so the shock is kept in the driveline and thus the "lurch." You have to let the clutch out a bit slower when speed shifting into second to prevent this, but if you get it right then it should still be quite fast and a lot smoother. 3rd through 5th doesn't matter as much, but again, you just have to learn how to drive an AWD car. If you want to road race the car, then you'll have no problems. If you want to drag the car, then you have to realize that ****s gonna break and you're going to have to upgrade components that you otherwise wouldn't have to.
Later, Ken
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 230
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From: Nor-Cali
but they still sold you a car whose price factored in a warranty cost... honestly... if they would sell me the evo minus the warranty for like a few thousand less... I would be all over it lol
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: NY
Alot of good and relevant discussion has been made on the thread. The main point of the thread was to warn people of a great expense they will be accountable for if they are not careful. As for the capacity of the stock clutch, from what I have read on the board alot of people are experiencing similar issues. Before I bought this car I came on this board to do some research and I think having this thread on here would educate a potential buyer on the REAL cost of owning this vehichle. My car is still stock by the way aside from the new clutch that I will have tuesday. Cheers.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 78
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From: nc
i agree, its BS. but clutch is a wear and tear item. 2600 miles is unacceptable though. they SHOULD cover it, but they wont. i am a tech at a BMW dealer and this would be covered NO QUESTIONS ASKED. unfortanatly, mitsu is a pretty ****** company. after a while... you will expect poor service at the dealer.
good luck, and just think of it as a learning experience.
good luck, and just think of it as a learning experience.
my stock mitsu clutch went at 4k, then i was like ok now i can get a badass aftermarket clutch like exedy, Mitsu said "oh it will void your warranty" you will have to buy the same oe clutch, back then my car was stock i was scared, then i had a mitsu clutch put in parts labor about 1900, the exedy with labor was like 1500, so that OE clutch lasted 9k i was like **** IT iam tired of buying 2 clutches a year, then had an ACT put in and my warranty was voided because of it **** MITSU PS my older had a 2005 WRX STI and the stock clutch had alot of launches and the clutch still never went!!
Evolved Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,571
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From: Rhode Island
Fellas, an aftermarket clutch is stronger than OEM BUT you can still burn it up if you do not know what you are doing!!!
Later, Ken
AMS Intake&Exhaust
Iveytune (322 all round)
Robispec K&W
Later, Ken
AMS Intake&Exhaust
Iveytune (322 all round)
Robispec K&W
