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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 08:59 PM
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Question Oiling system questions..

Does anyone know if the oil is filtered prior to reaching the oil pump, or after? (For the 4B11T obviously)
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 02:19 PM
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After.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Q15H
After.
Thanks.. This is what I figured, but I just wanted to make sure.

This is good because with just a little bit of hardware, you can add a pre-luber without having to drill into the block like they typically suggest. Maybe into the oil pan (you still don't have to), but that's no where near as bad.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 06:01 PM
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Explain this pre-luber deal.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by EVOxStuntin2008
Explain this pre-luber deal.
It's either an electrical, or mechanical device that provides oil pressure to the engine prior to it starting. While it's good to have under any circumstances, it's especially good for cars that haven't been run for days (weeks, months, years) on end.

So, if you leave your car at an airport for lets say a week, there might be little oil between the crank, and the crank bearings - which many people attribute to being the biggest culprit of internal engine wear.

Here's just one manufacturer of such a product:
http://www.pre-luber.com/
There are many more.

It apparently sees wide use in semi-trucks, and jet engines - you know, the types of engines that get used A LOT
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 04:03 AM
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It seems rather odd that you say these "pre-lube" systems are applied to vehicles that have significant intervals of down time and yet you point out that they are used by truckers and airplane engines; aren't the latter running most of the time so why the need for the "pre-lube"? I am confused!

Later, Ken
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by KPerez
It seems rather odd that you say these "pre-lube" systems are applied to vehicles that have significant intervals of down time and yet you point out that they are used by truckers and airplane engines; aren't the latter running most of the time so why the need for the "pre-lube"? I am confused!

Later, Ken

I say they should be installed on vehicles with significant downtime, but it doesn't mean high-duty engines shouldn't have them.

If you think about it, shortly after turning off your car, oil pressure drops to practically zero. So, when you crank your engine to start it, there will be a short interval where the components see little oil pressure. Up to a certain point, the longer an engine remains inactive, the longer the period of time before sufficient oil pressure is present at all necessary points in the lubrication system.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 07:21 PM
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I was always under the assumption that you could remove the coil packs and crank the engine to get the oil flowing if your car has been inactive for long periods.
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by EVOxStuntin2008
I was always under the assumption that you could remove the coil packs and crank the engine to get the oil flowing if your car has been inactive for long periods.
Remove the coil packs for what reason? So it doesn't start?

Unless the pump is broken, or there is no oil, you should eventually after several seconds get oil pressure. But the point is, that for those several seconds, it's going to be metal to metal contact which isn't good. With a pre oiler, you can be sure that when you crank the engine to start it, all oil bearings are sufficiently pressurized, and lubricated. It simply minimizes wear on startup. Of course, most engines last don't have one and last a long time, but this is good if you're meticulous about your car.
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by madcows
Remove the coil packs for what reason? So it doesn't start?

Unless the pump is broken, or there is no oil, you should eventually after several seconds get oil pressure. But the point is, that for those several seconds, it's going to be metal to metal contact which isn't good. With a pre oiler, you can be sure that when you crank the engine to start it, all oil bearings are sufficiently pressurized, and lubricated. It simply minimizes wear on startup. Of course, most engines last don't have one and last a long time, but this is good if you're meticulous about your car.

I am meticulous, and why I ask is because I am in Iraq and my 08 OB is going to be sitting for a year before I start her. I won't have time to install a pre-luber before I start it, so I was going to change the oil first to get some of the motor juiced up with some royal purple, and then remove the packs and crank it a few. then cross my fingers and hope she runs like a dream.
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 09:11 AM
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Ok, my two cents. While conceptually this issue is true, the effects are probably insignificant. Proof, you ask? I have a 92 DSM with 350whp and it has >1/4 million miles on the mains and crank; I did a valve job at ~150,000mi. So if this were a real problem that significantly reduced the engine life, then I should have seen it.

Later, Ken
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 09:31 AM
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... so I was going to change the oil first to get some of the motor juiced up with some royal purple, and then remove the packs and crank it a few...
Better to remove the spark plugs while you're already in there. Then the engine will crank faster with less load - to spread around the new oil.

Be sure to install the moly-lube anti-seize on the plugs when you reinstall them and torque to proper spec.

If you're not going to pull the spark plugs, then you probably gain nothing by removing the coils. You could merely unplug the low voltage connectors from the coils - so much easier, and same result (no start).

Be sure to charge the battery first cause it's flat for sure.
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by EVOxStuntin2008
I am meticulous, and why I ask is because I am in Iraq and my 08 OB is going to be sitting for a year before I start her. I won't have time to install a pre-luber before I start it, so I was going to change the oil first to get some of the motor juiced up with some royal purple, and then remove the packs and crank it a few. then cross my fingers and hope she runs like a dream.


If it's going to be sitting, search for some procedures online regarding properly storing a car. Stuff like stabilizing the fuel, lubricating the cylinders, etc... Do this, and you'll be fine.

Be safe out there, man!


Kperez,
Do you let you car sit for long periods on end? Like I said, a typical car without a preluber should last a very reasonable amount of time - proven by the fact that almost no cars use them. I'm just saying that it's that last extra step that might squeeze out a bit more life from the rotating assembly, and heavily lubricated parts.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by madcows
If it's going to be sitting, search for some procedures online regarding properly storing a car. Stuff like stabilizing the fuel, lubricating the cylinders, etc... Do this, and you'll be fine.

Be safe out there, man!


Kperez,
Do you let you car sit for long periods on end? Like I said, a typical car without a preluber should last a very reasonable amount of time - proven by the fact that almost no cars use them. I'm just saying that it's that last extra step that might squeeze out a bit more life from the rotating assembly, and heavily lubricated parts.

I added stabilizer and filled the tank, and unplugged the battery, which like you said, will be dead. I also put it on jacks so the tires aren't toast. Thanks! I <3
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Q15H
Better to remove the spark plugs while you're already in there. Then the engine will crank faster with less load - to spread around the new oil.

Be sure to install the moly-lube anti-seize on the plugs when you reinstall them and torque to proper spec.

If you're not going to pull the spark plugs, then you probably gain nothing by removing the coils. You could merely unplug the low voltage connectors from the coils - so much easier, and same result (no start).
Good point! Would dropping a few drops of oil on top of the cylinder do me any good! Maybe even something like Whiskey Delta 40?
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