R.i.p 4/16/09
mrMTB, the issue is this (and this is what DH told me): you're on the hook for the dealer to tear down the car to verify that it wasn't abuse and that there is a defect or some other issue.
At $90/hr for 8-10 hours of work just to *check* to see if it's a warranty item? Why not just eat the $6-700 in labor from an independent shop and put in a new, non-oem clutch?
Mitsu has put us over the barrel and they know it... because as soon as you have a non-oem clutch they void the transfer case (and likely rear end) warranties.
At $90/hr for 8-10 hours of work just to *check* to see if it's a warranty item? Why not just eat the $6-700 in labor from an independent shop and put in a new, non-oem clutch?
Mitsu has put us over the barrel and they know it... because as soon as you have a non-oem clutch they void the transfer case (and likely rear end) warranties.
There is that, Sean. And DH also noted that the clutch is intended to fail to prevent damage to the _expensive_ parts of the drive train (can't say that I disagree with that design decision). The other thing I see is that if it is a warranty item and you take it somewhere else, MMNA is off the hook for it. Nice catch-21.
BTW, anyone know what clutch is spec'd out for the FQ-400?
BTW, anyone know what clutch is spec'd out for the FQ-400?
Your clutch slips in 5th gear only? Mine slips more in higher gears. When it slips, it slips around 3000 rpm, for a few thousand rpm and then grabs. Depending on how hard im hitting the pedal. It confuses me a bit that the clutch slips and then grabs at higher rpms. Anyone else with a burnt clutch experience this?
My clutch was replaced under warranty due to a leaky seal behind the throw out bearing. Another had theirs replaced due to a rear main seal leak. Check with the dealer and be ready to file a complaint with corporate to get the work done.
Check my posting history and you'll find what I wrote to get everything complete. It took six weeks to resolve the issue.
Check my posting history and you'll find what I wrote to get everything complete. It took six weeks to resolve the issue.
I say if you end up going with an aftermarket clutch, go with the Exedy stage 2 clutch. great for DD and will hold up with decent HP. and close to stock peddle feel. I have heard ACT clutches screw up the master/slave cylinder. but thats just what i heard. Good luck
What happened shouldnt have.
I had several drag strip launchs and some road course work with my X and the clutch was still good @ 6000 miles when i sold it.
By the way i recommend Exedy Twin HD. By far my favorite clutch that i have had.
I had several drag strip launchs and some road course work with my X and the clutch was still good @ 6000 miles when i sold it.
By the way i recommend Exedy Twin HD. By far my favorite clutch that i have had.
Or that the driver keeps riding the clutch or that there is a defect somewhere......3500 miles and clutch is perfect on my car. Had seen 1 launch and a few clutch burning moments (smelled through the cabin).
-X



