i just installed my HKS wga today, then it occurred to me that i have no idea if it's installed properly, with people saying it has to be installed exactly on the spot or it will throw CELs or whatever. to me at least, the rod is installed with the same length as the oem wga, which is what i'm looking for (no preload). should i just go out and punch it, see if it throws CELs?

note that i'm getting tuned this weekend, and currently on stock tune.

 

Boost Gauge... maybe evoscan if it can scan the relative pressure like the COBB AP.

 

I would just wait for the tune. If you can't wait like me you should have it set at the lowest setting and see if it'll hold boost better and adjust after each drive.

 

you mean take out the heat shield after each drive, loosen the wga bracket, and adjust every single time? that's going to suck...

 

I would say the easiest way to tell if its working properly is look at the boost gauge. If it holds better boost than than before then its working.

 

i suppose my main concern is...there won't be some sort of "catastrophic" failure if it's not done right...?

 

Why would you buy, then install something on your car if you weren't even going to be able to tell if its working....

Scorke

 

because i can.

i'll install a trojan condom on my shifter and see if it protects me from germs if you want.

 

so i went for a test drive. at wot i'm making only 17psi...when it was stock i was making 25. could someone verify with me how to adjust the actuator rod?

 

Tighten the rod (make it shorter), turn it about 1 full turn and drive again wihout the heatshield on and confirm the boost (4th gear 2000-3500 RPM). Keep doing that in increments of 1/2 turn until you reach your desired boost. After you're finished put the heat shield back on.

 

i read a few threads and...see the thing is i've already adjusted it as far as it can go. another half turn and it simply won't fit. at any rate, i believe i know why i'm seeing low boost - my intake coupler was loose. must have been leaning on it while i was taking out the old WGA. i'm gonna go for another test drive and see if that is true.

edit: hm...came back, max 21, tapers to 15 at around 5500-6000rpm. i must be doing something wrong somewhere...but what? the taper seems to do its thing rather fast, too. it drops from 21 to 15 in like a second, where with the stock it was gradual. it was almost instant. i'm out of time today, so i'll probably put the stock wga back on and try again tomorrow after work.

 

That's how it's supposed to be, it shouldn't fit easily, the rod should be shorter and you have to pull on it harder to get it fixed. That will get your problem solved.

 

^ exactly, you really need to yank on that thing really hard to make it fit. You can't just simply put it on. If you can, then that means it's too loose and you wont hold boost.

 

I just installed my HKS unit as well and I'm currently in the process of trying to dial it in. Factory setting (without any pre-load) I was getting 20psi max (cobb AEM stage 2 map). I let the car cool off then turned another 3-4 turns and am now hitting 23.5 max, so I figure it's going to need another 2-3 turns to get back up to 25-26 psi.

 

oh good call. i'll try it out tonight.

yeah i literally just slipped it on, didn't know it actually needs tension to work. someone said zero preload works too, so i started there.