Turboback, intake, IC piping and ECUflash in that order! If you don't want to flash it maybe go for a new FMIC instead.

 

i have reservations on ecu flash
First the car is less than 1500 miles, second for some odd reason i want to believe the stock ecu would be able to detect and optimize to the bolt ons in time ( that should tell a lot about how mush i know about the ecu stuff)
third i have been reading a lot about people messing up their engine, tranny while tryin to mess with ecu settings
four i do believe there is a wide margin of safety built in to the ecu in order to compensate for various driving styles, conditions, temperatures humidity and other unforeseable conditions and altering those might jeopardize the overall well being of the motor
i use my car as a daily driver however did notice the acceleration is something to be missed on my new MR compared to the old EVo8 i had. i would really appreciate another 50-60 hp.torque without significantly compromising dependabioity and longevity of my car. Also i am afraid if a freak occurance happens and car throws a CEL i do not want the whole warranty voided...

well you might say if you are so much of a chicken **** to tinker around, why dont you just keep it stock and drive it as is

Yeah that might be an option. But then where is the thrill in owning an Evo. Don't we all love em because they give us so much liberty to modify and ultimately is a toy for a big boy..

 

Um, no.

 

i would bring the car to you guys but i live in maryland and pretty much work like a dog..You guiys seem like one of the most knowledgeable tuners in the forum..

 

I got my first tune with like 900 miles on the car from TTP. I actually just got it retuned with the new parts 2 weeks ago. Runs great.

 

if you work in md then give cbrd a call they are in PA. they should be able to give you the advice you need. also the tune is necessary when you upgrade.

also if it was me i'd get a tbe, gm 3 port, intake and a tune.

 

-Cosworth Drop-In Filter---------------$45
-Nisei Upper Intercooler Pipe---------$190
-Test Pipe/HFC---------------------------$100+
-3" Cat-Back Exhaust-------------------$600+
-Custom Tune ---------------------------$400+
_____________________________________________
Total---------------------------------------$1335+ tax + labor

If you skip the tune, the car will pick up some power but the tune makes such a HUGE difference that I must recommend it. With the setup above I gained about 45tq/hp with bolt-ons only, but after tune I gained an additional 45 tq and 35 hp with better spool.

I think the O2-Downpipe is overkill for people running the stock turbo. Since I'm a nobody, I will add that Buschur recently posted this same conclusion as well.


I have not heard of anyone messing up their engine/transmission by getting tuned at a reputable shop. Post the links if you can.


CEL doesn't void your warranty. Some dealerships are more lenient than others when it comes to aftermarket parts. You might just call and ask them what modifications they consider to be grounds for instant warranty voiding. I doubt they will put anything in writing for you but it may give you peace of mind in choosing a mod path.

 

^ Do you think a highflow cat will have a bigger chance of voiding the warranty than just a catback exhaust? What about a downpipe, is it worth it if you are not changing the stock turbo?

 

A tune and a turbo-back exhaust.

 

I cannot comment on exactly what voids a warranty. It seems to vary from dealer to dealer. Ask your local dealer how they handle modded Evos.

If you do put in a test pipe or HFC, you most likely will get a check engine light for code P0420: "Warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold". You will need an O2 spacer ($5-20) installed so that the sensor is fooled. Alternatively, some tuners may know how to turn off that sensor in the ECU.

Based on my research, I don't believe downpipes on stock turbos net very big gains. Combined with the added cost of the parts and more difficult (or expensive) install, I don't think they offer good bang for the buck. I'm sure there are others that would disagree. For me, I couldn't justify it. Just read as many dyno charts as you can and draw your own conclusion. Buschur recently posted a thread about the quality of the stock downpipe and how it is probably unnecessary to upgrade until you get into the 350+whp range. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...93-octane.html

 

Legally according to Federal law any bolt on products can not void a warranty. Items welded do void it. Most dealerships will fight you on this (where I've been to court on it) but there are some out there that if its not signs of abuse they will cover it. They can however require you to put it back to stock before they work on it....

 

Where are you getting this from? Never seen/read anything like this. Links?

Here's some good reading on Federal Warranty Law:
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/busi...#Magnuson-Moss

Then read your warranty and maintenance manual that came with the car. For the Evo X, it's on page 6.
"NOTE:
-Coverage applies only to the repair or replacement of powertrain components originally manufactured and installed by Mitsubishi Motors that are defective in material or factory workmanship under normal use and maintenance or Authorized Mitsubishi Powertrain Component parts sourced from and installed by an Authorized Mitsubishi Motors Retailer.
-Non-authorized, aftermarket parts and/or Mitsubishi parts not obtained from and installed by an Authorized Mitsubishi Motors Retailer are not covered by this warranty."

The kicker is the "normal use" clause. As much as I hate to say this, increasing the power of your car by %50+ does not constitute "normal use". All parts have inherent design limits.

 

I spoke with the service manager of my dealer and he gave me the thumbs up on a tbe and intake.

I already have an ams short ram and am trying to decide between a cpe catback or a cobb ap right now. I'll get the cpe down pipe and hfc eventually too so I can go stage 2 on the cobb.