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Old May 4, 2010 | 12:41 PM
  #31  
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From: Hayward
Yup once you vent that block the $$$$ skyrockets, although I don't agree with drop-ins but I'm also not an engine builder.

- Bryan
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Old May 4, 2010 | 12:43 PM
  #32  
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From: Minnesota
Originally Posted by GST Motorsports
Yup once you vent that block the $$$$ skyrockets, although I don't agree with drop-ins but I'm also not an engine builder.

- Bryan
Out of curiosity, what would you recommend? Sleeve it and all?

Or are you saying, keep the stock motor...
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Old May 4, 2010 | 12:48 PM
  #33  
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From: Hayward
Originally Posted by murlo26
Out of curiosity, what would you recommend? Sleeve it and all?

Or are you saying, keep the stock motor...
I'm in the camp of doing a proper engine build, with the motor out of the car so everything can be balanced and checked, yada yada.

Again, I'm not a engine builder but I believe buschur and AMS have found no need for sleeving the 4B11... I could be wrong though, as I am not an engine builder.

- Bryan
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Old May 4, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #34  
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From: Minnesota
Originally Posted by GST Motorsports
I'm in the camp of doing a proper engine build, with the motor out of the car so everything can be balanced and checked, yada yada.

Again, I'm not a engine builder but I believe buschur and AMS have found no need for sleeving the 4B11... I could be wrong though, as I am not an engine builder.

- Bryan
Oh, yea, well that is going to happen, at least with my car. It will all be out of the car and all the clearances and etc will be checked.

I see what you are saying though, rather than just pulling the head and leaving the motor in etc.

I guess mine is a "proper" build, not by choice though, lol. Well it will be.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 02:07 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by GST Motorsports
I'm in the camp of doing a proper engine build
I like the 'proper' idea as well. It's the extra kilobucks in labor that I wasn't inclined to deal with.

Gates' brand new motor failed, so obviously there's no guarantees with anything you do.

Last edited by mlomker; May 4, 2010 at 02:11 PM.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 02:16 PM
  #36  
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No Sleeves here Drop in Pistons/Rods. You can also change the rod bolts with the motor in the car, just drop and pan, etc. We pushed the stock block to 680whp with countless dyno pulls and daily driving before the rod bolts let go.

Michael
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Old May 4, 2010 | 06:06 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ETS Michael
No Sleeves here Drop in Pistons/Rods. You can also change the rod bolts with the motor in the car, just drop and pan, etc. We pushed the stock block to 680whp with countless dyno pulls and daily driving before the rod bolts let go.

Michael
and what happens when the rod bolts let go...
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Old May 4, 2010 | 06:17 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by bouncintiga
and what happens when the rod bolts let go...
You do an unscheduled oil change out the back of your block!
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Old May 4, 2010 | 08:36 PM
  #39  
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From: Minnesota
^That, then the ground looks like this...
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Old May 5, 2010 | 05:46 AM
  #40  
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From: Saint Paul
Originally Posted by ETS Michael
We pushed the stock block to 680whp with countless dyno pulls and daily driving before the rod bolts let go.
Do you recall what the torque was? I'm not convinced that hp is the problem. It seems that we've had a lot more cars with stock-sized turbos have motor failures than the large turbos (which tend to have high hp and modest tq).
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Old May 5, 2010 | 06:02 AM
  #41  
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680 whp @ 8000rpm:

680 = tq * 8000 / 5252
= 446 tq


680 whp @ 7000rpm:

680 = tq * 7000 / 5252
= 510 tq
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Old May 5, 2010 | 09:40 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by bouncintiga
and what happens when the rod bolts let go...

Your block receives a window.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 09:45 AM
  #43  
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From: NI
Originally Posted by murlo26
Out of curiosity, what would you recommend? Sleeve it and all?

Or are you saying, keep the stock motor...
darton sleeves in mine, as my bores were scored


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Old May 5, 2010 | 10:07 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ETS Michael
No Sleeves here Drop in Pistons/Rods. You can also change the rod bolts with the motor in the car, just drop and pan, etc. We pushed the stock block to 680whp with countless dyno pulls and daily driving before the rod bolts let go.

Michael
Mike,

Would it be your suggestion to install dropin Pistons/Rods if the goal is 400whp for a DD? Or do you think it's not neccessary at that power level to maintain reliability?
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Old May 5, 2010 | 10:12 AM
  #45  
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From: Minnesota
^I say again, if you can afford drop in's, do it.

I am probably going to end up parting my X out and selling it. Looking to go Evo 9. Little cheaper and wider array of parts. Plus I don't want a $60,000 evo right now, perhaps over time, but this is too much to stomach at once.
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