Hi Guys,

According to http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/08..._oil_pump.html

Tomei reckon the rods in the 4B11T are STRONGER than the 4G63T... But the rod bolts are probably weaker.

Does anyone know if you can change the rod bolts by just taking the lower portion of the oil pan off?

Thinking about doing this....

Obviously the labour required for such a modification would be pretty minimal....

Cheers
D.

 

ok after reading back through various other threads it would seem that doing rods is probably a good thing - maybe the manufacturing process of the factory rod is producing bad rods (since they are designed better than the 4G)

so the next question:

can you do rods from the bottom? ie remove both parts of the oil pan, and crank, can you pull the piston far enough down to pull the pins out?

basically I want maximize the gain by doing minimal work

 

Nope you cant
Just pull the head out not to hard at all if you are already doing the rods .

 

yeah thats what I was thinking...

trouble is you might as well the whole lot then...

 

I will just be replacing the rod bolts with ARP rod bolts and leaving stock rods...

But that is just me...

 

yeh it is pretty tempting...

although out of all the 4b11 failures I have come across it seems to be rods that are the main problem...

 

just dreaming up whether I can pull head and pan and do rods+bolts+pistons myself...

hrmm i dont think so hehe

 

btw here is 4b11 vs 4g63 rods:

 

Stock rods are a problem on almost any car that pushes more power/boost then designed to do so .

 

My tuner told me rod bolts weren't worth it...he said the rods themselves seemed to be the weak spot and just doing rod bolts probably wouldn't help much.

So he recommended doing full drop in's if anything. So i faced leaving the motor stock or full drop ins. I chose the stock motor and it let go...lesson learned. If you plan to push it, do drop ins!

 

i'm with you mate ! let me know when it begins or maybe someone could post a writeup or how to with the know hows and tools needed.

not worth just doing rod bolts, since the engine has opened up, do at least head studs, pistons + rings, con rods minimum at least. but it's just my 2 cents.

when the engine being pushed, normally rods are the main problems and seen many of these cases or if a tune went wrong pistons start to melt, chip, rings worn, and holes too.

 

well you can do rod bolts WITHOUT taking the head off... just the oil pan and windage thingy

i have no doubt that a full drop-in would be harder than most peoples capabilities, but you know me - always like to try things myself

 

My tuner said it isn't worth it either. He actually refused to do my rodbolts because just swapping them out isn't the proper way to do it.. oh well

 

well I love how the FSM says you can REUSE the rodbolts...

tsk tsk tsk... torque to yield bolts should never be reused...

 

I don't see any reason why you couldn't.. You could do them in the 4G63 as well. It was kind of a pain in the butt though, mostly because the bolts are a press in fit, so you will need to find a way to get them out without removing the rod. You could leave one bolt in, and tap the other without the nut on with a hammer and drift punch to pop it out, and use the nut to pull it back in.