Thebigjoke1337

***FIXED?***
So today a friend of mine came over to look at my car today to see if he can find out whats wrong with it. So long story short my friend messed with engine bay checking every thing and then took the car for a drive and did about two hard pulls threw 3rd and 4th and magically my car idles normal again and drives fine



Okay guys I am in some major need of help right now. So here is the story I was coming back from school today and was sitting at a McDonalds drive threw when suddenly my idle dropped to like 400 RPMS and my whole car just started to shake. I could hear my cat back hitting my sway bar and my engine feeling like it was going to come loose from it's mounts. So I turned off the car and turned it back on and my idle went back up to about 900 - 800 RPMS and every thing was fine in till about 30 seconds later when it happened again. Even when I was driving home from McDonalds I could feel the car going back and forth at times randomly will still holding constant in gear. Now I have been going threw my car checking to make sure nothing came loose and all the hoses and such are connected and every thing seems good and I tried to turn my car on again and the same thing happened just this time I also noticed that the lights in the car would flicker as the RPMS dropped and the car would shake. Now I have always had some kind of idle issue but it would only drop from 800-600 RPMS and would cause my cat back to hit my sway bar only some times at idle.

So does any one know what the problem could be? I am really in a rush to find the problem because I am suppose to have my turbo and cams installed Monday to finish my car up and every time my apartment comes up something comes up with the car that I have to fix first.

Mods that are related to the engine

¨ AMS Upper Intercooler Piping
¨ AMS Lower Intercooler Piping
¨ AMS Intercooler
¨ AMS Short Ram Intake
¨ Perrin Catch Can
¨ AMS Downpipe
¨ AMS High Flow Catalytic Converter
¨ Fujitsubo Legalis R
¨ Walbro 225 Fuel Pump
¨ DW 800cc Injectors
¨ AMS Fuel Rails
¨ Ultimate Racing Fuel Pump Mount
¨ Ultimate Racing Fuel Filter
¨ Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator
¨ Mishimoto Aluminum Fan Shroud
¨ Mishimoto Aluminum Upper Radiator Hose kit
¨ Agency Power 3Pc Silicone Coolant Hose Kit
¨ APR CF Radiator Cooling Plate
¨ Mishimoto 1.3 Bar Rated Carbon Fiber Radiator Cap, Small (Import)

Here is a video of my idling(Not the worst I have had) You can skip to 1:10 to see the problem start. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxTUQiMUxSQ

Sorry for this being so long.

Thebigjoke1337

bump.

E6-X

iTrader: (4)

chk yr fpr hose. get a silicone hose and zip tie it. also clean your maf. chk yr spark plugs.

GL & keep us posted hope the solution above helps.

starks

Im having a similar issue. In addition, I have some stuttering/jerking while wide open throttle at around 3k in 5th and 6th which smooths out. Im thinking MAF.
Which hose is the fpr?

Im gonna clean the maf today to see if its fixed. I may have over oiled the perrin panel filter.

Thebigjoke1337

Well I tried the cleaning my MAF and that did not work. And the FPR hose is the hose that connects from your fuel rail to your intake manifold. it's a small thin tube by your dip stick.

sideway180sx

iTrader: (4)

Do you have a shield blocking the filter from the a/c fan?

xsolowx

iTrader: (8)

do a boost leak check....check the two vaccuum hoses on the EGR valve

Frank120

could be a bad tune

Thebigjoke1337

@ Sideay180sx: Yes I have a AMS intake shield with my intake

@ xsolowx: Every thing is nice and tight

@Frank120: I can't believe that because the tune has worked fine for the past 8,000 miles or so

This whole thing is just weird to me. the car was fine at a stop light right before McDonalds drive up to give them my order and the idling goes to ****.

mlomker

iTrader: (1)

If you had a wideband it'd be interesting to know if it is going lean when it idles down. If so then it could be one of your o2 sensors being erratic.

E6-X

iTrader: (4)

fpr hose is locate on the far left of your fuel rail, folow that then u can see your fpr (a little round thing) with a hose attached then to your manifold near to your dipstick.

have you checked your plugs ? had an experience with bad stock plug. CEL only popped up after few days.

if nothing has been touched & tune running fine, most prolly no need to do boost leak test yet. just my 2 cents before taking out too many things.

02 sensor would normally give you a CEL pretty fast.

GL

Thebigjoke1337

I have a wideband sitting on my desk that I have been meaning to install. but I am pretty sure it's running rich because when the idle starts to go crazy I can smell more fuel.

Thebigjoke1337

Yep checked my plugs they seem to be all fine.

both my o2 sensors have been giving me a serive engine light after I install my downpipe and high flow cat over 12,000 miles ago.

And how would I go about checking for a boost leak.

Thebigjoke1337

Apparently my friend was ably to fix the car by just looking at my engine bay and doing a hard pull threw 3rd and 4th gear. Who would figure.

starks

Thanks everyone! My FPR hose was indeed the culprit. Sitting completely detached from the fuel rail! Runs like a beast again, without a trip to the dealership at that.

What a relief. Now for some zip ties...