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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 02:13 AM
  #16  
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you cant compare evo heads with honda heads. Hondas have a far superior flowing head. But the evos stock block take a lot more abuse.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 06:05 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by palmerblock
my k20a with 10.0:1 comp, stock head, stock cams, on a full race manifold and 35r made 493 @ 18psi on 91oct

it took 25 psi to get low to mid 400's on my evo and only takes 10-13 psi to make the same on a k...
You're comparing apples to oranges, the K motor had a full 1.0 higher compression...that makes for a big horsepower difference, especially in a forced induction application. If you want to max the potential of that setup a little more you should do all the supporting mods first like the UICP, Tial QR Bypass since I'm sure the stock one is leaking, and a FMIC if you don't already have one.

What torque did the car put down? Have any dyno graphs? I agree with everyone else, you should have just upgraded the clutch when you had it torn down and you would have saved a lot of time.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 06:09 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by palmerblock
my k20a with 10.0:1 comp, stock head, stock cams, on a full race manifold and 35r made 493 @ 18psi on 91oct

the 4b11t stock doesnt do any turbo justice...
it took 25 psi to get low to mid 400's on my evo and only takes 10-13 psi to make the same on a k...

from previous generations it may flow well but could still use alot of work...

im keepin a positive outlook on things, ima mod the car more, it shud wake up pretty soon and ill let everyone know bout it....
Well take a 4B11t and do similar engine buildup mods and I don't see why it couldn't at least be closer to that power. What displacement, what RPM is it making 493 hp, what kind of power under the curve? I don't see that setup making that much torque at 18 psi but I could be wrong.

I would imagine an AMS 2.2L revving to 9k would get you in shooting range on a 35r type turbo with an aggressive tune. I'm sure the K20a is leading in efficiency but at 25 psi and a conservative tune this 750R is doing great for us:

http://www.teamiglooracing.org/?page_id=40

I guess the other side of the coin is that there should be potentially more improvement to be had with carefull portwork on the 4B11t head assuming it's so much worse out of the box.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 01:25 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Hiboost
I guess the other side of the coin is that there should be potentially more improvement to be had with carefull portwork on the 4B11t head assuming it's so much worse out of the box.
Every head out there sucks compared to the Honda K20s and F20/22 in outright flow. S2000s are putting down ~500whp at ~18-20psi. Unreal. K20s are putting down 300whp all motor! Of course, the sacrifice is low-end....

But the engines were developed with two different powerbands in mind.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 01:43 PM
  #20  
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The compression ratio's help alot.... its not all head design
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #21  
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i will post graphs soon, i have thrown in the towel tuning my car since it needs more mods to warrant me messing with it on the dyno...

On E85 i stopped at ~500hp ~430tq, needs more fuel and cam to warrant any further testing

On 91 ~435hp, ~395tq, same as above minus the fuel

car baselines on this dyno @ ~259hp, ~295tq

running dual maps and it hauls *** on both tunes...

by summer ill have the motor built up with cams and maybe headwerk

i already test my bov, its not leaking... how did i test it, i literally took it off the car, blocked both passage ways and did pulls, no change in power, afr, boost, or load calc., but it will be replaced when the motor is built

as for the clutch, its doin a pretty dam good job right now... upgrade will come when the motor is built...
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 10:15 PM
  #22  
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wow that really must suck having the turbo on the back side. Reminder to self: Never buy a car like this.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 11:43 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Jp7
wow that really must suck having the turbo on the back side. Reminder to self: Never buy a car like this.
You're not going to be buying a new car then. Pretty much every turbo car on the market with a transverse engine is going this way because it places the catalytic converter as close to the turbo as possible to minimize cat light off time.
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 12:28 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by spdracerut
You're not going to be buying a new car then. Pretty much every turbo car on the market with a transverse engine is going this way because it places the catalytic converter as close to the turbo as possible to minimize cat light off time.
Exactly, won't be buying any of the new turbo cars. All disappointing.

I try and hide the embarrassing fact that the IX has a transverse mounted engine in the first place.
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:51 PM
  #25  
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bumping this thread, havent updated it since ive been sorting out my fuel problems... now that its all done, Final E85 numbers coming up this weeked, pump gas has been already set at 430-450...
stay tuned...
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 04:49 AM
  #26  
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Just an FYI about using the stock BOV for higher boost, I ended up crushing the one on an MR I'm building up for a friend. Unaltered I could surge to 32 psi for a brief moment but then it would dump down to 27 psi almost instantly. Then after 1 minute it would leak down to 24 psi and 2 minutes down to 22 psi. I would imagine you could overcome the slight leak up to 27 psi without a major problem but past that would destroy turbo efficiency.

After crushing the top evenly in a vice I got it to consistantly hold 5 psi more across the board on my tester. Only difference is it does some more chooo chooo noises at sub 3000 rpm where as before it would do that at 2500 at part throttle boost, but that kind of BOV flutter is harmless.
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 05:33 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Jp7
Exactly, won't be buying any of the new turbo cars. All disappointing.

I try and hide the embarrassing fact that the IX has a transverse mounted engine in the first place.
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 08:03 AM
  #28  
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I need to go for a ride in your evo!
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 08:32 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Hiboost
Just an FYI about using the stock BOV for higher boost, I ended up crushing the one on an MR I'm building up for a friend. Unaltered I could surge to 32 psi for a brief moment but then it would dump down to 27 psi almost instantly. Then after 1 minute it would leak down to 24 psi and 2 minutes down to 22 psi. I would imagine you could overcome the slight leak up to 27 psi without a major problem but past that would destroy turbo efficiency.

After crushing the top evenly in a vice I got it to consistantly hold 5 psi more across the board on my tester. Only difference is it does some more chooo chooo noises at sub 3000 rpm where as before it would do that at 2500 at part throttle boost, but that kind of BOV flutter is harmless.
i may try this, however, i havent noticed any issues with leakage on mine, but i will test again to see

in my test i completely removed the bov, plugged the hole and ran the car... Same hp, same spool up, same boost.... all the way til redline...

for now i plan on boosting a max of 26-27 psi

last time it made 503, with the boost at 23.5 at peak hp, i needed more inj, the afr was lean enough to kill ponies. Now i have 1300,s to give me more head room
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 08:33 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JDMCT9MR
I need to go for a ride in your evo!
next time u come by, ill give u one...
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