ATP EvoX GT35R Picture Thread
What torque did the car put down? Have any dyno graphs? I agree with everyone else, you should have just upgraded the clutch when you had it torn down and you would have saved a lot of time.
my k20a with 10.0:1 comp, stock head, stock cams, on a full race manifold and 35r made 493 @ 18psi on 91oct
the 4b11t stock doesnt do any turbo justice...
it took 25 psi to get low to mid 400's on my evo and only takes 10-13 psi to make the same on a k...
from previous generations it may flow well but could still use alot of work...
im keepin a positive outlook on things, ima mod the car more, it shud wake up pretty soon and ill let everyone know bout it....
the 4b11t stock doesnt do any turbo justice...
it took 25 psi to get low to mid 400's on my evo and only takes 10-13 psi to make the same on a k...
from previous generations it may flow well but could still use alot of work...
im keepin a positive outlook on things, ima mod the car more, it shud wake up pretty soon and ill let everyone know bout it....
I would imagine an AMS 2.2L revving to 9k would get you in shooting range on a 35r type turbo with an aggressive tune. I'm sure the K20a is leading in efficiency but at 25 psi and a conservative tune this 750R is doing great for us:
http://www.teamiglooracing.org/?page_id=40
I guess the other side of the coin is that there should be potentially more improvement to be had with carefull portwork on the 4B11t head assuming it's so much worse out of the box.
But the engines were developed with two different powerbands in mind.
i will post graphs soon, i have thrown in the towel tuning my car since it needs more mods to warrant me messing with it on the dyno...
On E85 i stopped at ~500hp ~430tq, needs more fuel and cam to warrant any further testing
On 91 ~435hp, ~395tq, same as above minus the fuel
car baselines on this dyno @ ~259hp, ~295tq
running dual maps and it hauls *** on both tunes...
by summer ill have the motor built up with cams and maybe headwerk
i already test my bov, its not leaking... how did i test it, i literally took it off the car, blocked both passage ways and did pulls, no change in power, afr, boost, or load calc., but it will be replaced when the motor is built
as for the clutch, its doin a pretty dam good job right now... upgrade will come when the motor is built...
On E85 i stopped at ~500hp ~430tq, needs more fuel and cam to warrant any further testing
On 91 ~435hp, ~395tq, same as above minus the fuel
car baselines on this dyno @ ~259hp, ~295tq
running dual maps and it hauls *** on both tunes...
by summer ill have the motor built up with cams and maybe headwerk
i already test my bov, its not leaking... how did i test it, i literally took it off the car, blocked both passage ways and did pulls, no change in power, afr, boost, or load calc., but it will be replaced when the motor is built
as for the clutch, its doin a pretty dam good job right now... upgrade will come when the motor is built...
You're not going to be buying a new car then. Pretty much every turbo car on the market with a transverse engine is going this way because it places the catalytic converter as close to the turbo as possible to minimize cat light off time.
I try and hide the embarrassing fact that the IX has a transverse mounted engine in the first place.
bumping this thread, havent updated it since ive been sorting out my fuel problems... now that its all done, Final E85 numbers coming up this weeked, pump gas has been already set at 430-450...
stay tuned...
stay tuned...
Just an FYI about using the stock BOV for higher boost, I ended up crushing the one on an MR I'm building up for a friend. Unaltered I could surge to 32 psi for a brief moment but then it would dump down to 27 psi almost instantly. Then after 1 minute it would leak down to 24 psi and 2 minutes down to 22 psi. I would imagine you could overcome the slight leak up to 27 psi without a major problem but past that would destroy turbo efficiency.
After crushing the top evenly in a vice I got it to consistantly hold 5 psi more across the board on my tester. Only difference is it does some more chooo chooo noises at sub 3000 rpm where as before it would do that at 2500 at part throttle boost, but that kind of BOV flutter is harmless.
After crushing the top evenly in a vice I got it to consistantly hold 5 psi more across the board on my tester. Only difference is it does some more chooo chooo noises at sub 3000 rpm where as before it would do that at 2500 at part throttle boost, but that kind of BOV flutter is harmless.
Just an FYI about using the stock BOV for higher boost, I ended up crushing the one on an MR I'm building up for a friend. Unaltered I could surge to 32 psi for a brief moment but then it would dump down to 27 psi almost instantly. Then after 1 minute it would leak down to 24 psi and 2 minutes down to 22 psi. I would imagine you could overcome the slight leak up to 27 psi without a major problem but past that would destroy turbo efficiency.
After crushing the top evenly in a vice I got it to consistantly hold 5 psi more across the board on my tester. Only difference is it does some more chooo chooo noises at sub 3000 rpm where as before it would do that at 2500 at part throttle boost, but that kind of BOV flutter is harmless.
After crushing the top evenly in a vice I got it to consistantly hold 5 psi more across the board on my tester. Only difference is it does some more chooo chooo noises at sub 3000 rpm where as before it would do that at 2500 at part throttle boost, but that kind of BOV flutter is harmless.
in my test i completely removed the bov, plugged the hole and ran the car... Same hp, same spool up, same boost.... all the way til redline...
for now i plan on boosting a max of 26-27 psi
last time it made 503, with the boost at 23.5 at peak hp, i needed more inj, the afr was lean enough to kill ponies. Now i have 1300,s to give me more head room






