new built motor noise help
new built motor noise help
i recently built my motor in my ralliart cause it blew up. and everything is running fine till just the other day and i threw the code P0014 which is like to much timing advance or something. so i erased it and it stayed away then it came back again 2 days later but i erased it again knowing there is nothing i could do about it i will be getting tuned on wednesday.
and now the bad part today i was driving and between 2500-3000rpm i heard a rattling noise almost like a heat shield rattle so once i got to where i was going i listened and it sounds like it coming from the motor but i cant tell where. does anyone have any idea what i could be, i was supossed to get tuned wednesdsay but idk if thats going to happen now.
i had 258 miles on the motor once this started to happen. and every once and awhile it tries to die like something is wrong with the idle, but i figured this is common since i just re built my motor.
,mods are stock sizes: eagle rods, wiseco pistons stock compression, arp studs and bolts,ACLbearings, Brian crower valve springs
and now the bad part today i was driving and between 2500-3000rpm i heard a rattling noise almost like a heat shield rattle so once i got to where i was going i listened and it sounds like it coming from the motor but i cant tell where. does anyone have any idea what i could be, i was supossed to get tuned wednesdsay but idk if thats going to happen now.
i had 258 miles on the motor once this started to happen. and every once and awhile it tries to die like something is wrong with the idle, but i figured this is common since i just re built my motor.
,mods are stock sizes: eagle rods, wiseco pistons stock compression, arp studs and bolts,ACLbearings, Brian crower valve springs
Its hard to tell without ot physically in front of me. Get a stethescope so you can get exactly where its comong from. That should help you narrpw it down. If you think its a heat shield, grab sone rags and apply pressure to the heat shield and see if it stops.
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Well my recent built motor failure sounding like a heatshield rattle as well...it was a spun bearing. I hope that isn't what happened to you though.
With that many miles only it could be though as apparently spun bearings that are from assembly errors happen rather quickly.
I would not run the car anymore until you pull the oil pan. Pulling the pan will tell you if the bearing spun, should be lots of debris.
Good luck to you man, hopefully its something simple like a loose bolt rattling but who knows.
With that many miles only it could be though as apparently spun bearings that are from assembly errors happen rather quickly.
I would not run the car anymore until you pull the oil pan. Pulling the pan will tell you if the bearing spun, should be lots of debris.
Good luck to you man, hopefully its something simple like a loose bolt rattling but who knows.
i will be pulling the pan shortly i am hoping its not a spun bearing sure not an easy or cheap fix would have to pull the motor again
.
oh and what confuses me is there is no noise at all at idle?
i checked all the cam sensors they seem fine to me.
.oh and what confuses me is there is no noise at all at idle?
i checked all the cam sensors they seem fine to me.
Last edited by hotshot1; May 22, 2011 at 11:21 AM.
I just helped another member with a similar issue, his car was acting similar to yours on a fresh build. As Bryan pointed out your variable valve timing is off, this is happening because your losing oil pressure that keeps the actuator moving. Your losing oil pressure because you have a bearing thats going out or that has pretty much gone out hence the noise.
Its probably not as loud when the car is cold correct? Gets louder as the car warms up? On the other car I mentioned earlier it was because the bearing tolerances were too tight and the there also may have been an issue of the shop using 4G63 specs when torquing the 4B11's internals down.
Its probably not as loud when the car is cold correct? Gets louder as the car warms up? On the other car I mentioned earlier it was because the bearing tolerances were too tight and the there also may have been an issue of the shop using 4G63 specs when torquing the 4B11's internals down.
I just helped another member with a similar issue, his car was acting similar to yours on a fresh build. As Bryan pointed out your variable valve timing is off, this is happening because your losing oil pressure that keeps the actuator moving. Your losing oil pressure because you have a bearing thats going out or that has pretty much gone out hence the noise.
Its probably not as loud when the car is cold correct? Gets louder as the car warms up? On the other car I mentioned earlier it was because the bearing tolerances were too tight and the there also may have been an issue of the shop using 4G63 specs when torquing the 4B11's internals down.
Its probably not as loud when the car is cold correct? Gets louder as the car warms up? On the other car I mentioned earlier it was because the bearing tolerances were too tight and the there also may have been an issue of the shop using 4G63 specs when torquing the 4B11's internals down.
Well looks like another vote for a bearing. Pull the pan and let us know.
WELL THE VERDICT IS, i found two of the ****ing oil squirters in my oil pan. and when i look up at the pistons i can see that all the oil squirters have hit the pistons and bent now
but two of them broke clean off. i'm pretty sure that the machine shop took the oil squirters out to hone the block right? do they all have to go back in the exact location is there a way to put them in wrong? any help would be great maybe someone had a pic of their oil squirters on the bottom side of their block. so now the next thing is i probably have to pull my motor again now right?
by any chance could MAP have sent me the wrong pistons is there pistons that the bottom side is longer and would make it contact the oil squirters. i am pretty pissed of right now i did not expect this to happen and all along i thought it was a bearing.
but two of them broke clean off. i'm pretty sure that the machine shop took the oil squirters out to hone the block right? do they all have to go back in the exact location is there a way to put them in wrong? any help would be great maybe someone had a pic of their oil squirters on the bottom side of their block. so now the next thing is i probably have to pull my motor again now right? by any chance could MAP have sent me the wrong pistons is there pistons that the bottom side is longer and would make it contact the oil squirters. i am pretty pissed of right now i did not expect this to happen and all along i thought it was a bearing.
Good to know its the squirters I guess, problem is that with those broken off Oil pressure else where went to crap.. so check it all. Question, you said you built this motor rt? Did you not turn it over when assembling the rods and pistons? Should have been looking at end play, crank binding, piston travel, bearing clearences( plastigauge), TDC, and assorted other things that would have had you cranking this over by hand--could have caught all this early.







