Who assembled the engine?

 

i assembled it and it turned over smoothly which would explain why no noise at idle only higher rpms. does anyone have a picture or know for a fact if there is suppossed to be washers under the oil squirters does anyone have there motor torn apart right now that could answer this question all help would be great

 

Timing Chain stretch perhaps?

 

If you assembled it then the machine shop would have assumed you would account for the squirters. There aren't washers under on any of the 4B11's I have seen and you may just be best off to either cut the tips, or plug the holes. Assuming you have done damage already due to low oil pressure. You may want to check bearings while your under there.

Timing chain wouldn't have anything to do with this at all.

 

why would i plug the holes dont i need oil to come out of those and spray the pistons? and two of them already broke off now what do you mean check the bearings? rod bearings or main bearings cause unless i pull the motor there is no way i can check the mains. i could check the rods by just pulling off the caps but no way to check the mains.

 

i did a compression check before i pulled the pan and it came back good.

 

Compression test won't find the issues you facing, you have more than likely been running with minimal oil pressure due to the open holes. Thats why I say plug them off because they will raise your oil pressure and are mainly for cooling. Most shops actually plug them off on builds depending on the parts used.

I would pull off the caps and look for any scoring, and since you were losing exhaust cam MIVEC pressure look at the cam bearings. Better to catch any issues now if there are any.

 

so if i plug those off then get a oil pressure gauge and watch that like crazy? what about the other two that arent broke yet? i thought it was super important to have those oil squirters? how else would the cylinder walls get lubed? would i then just assume that my main bearing are ok and hope for the best?

 

Removing the squirters depends a lot on your build and what your clearances are. On my 2.3L for example ERL went to the high side on clearances for some high rev racing room. When you do this you have drop the oil pressure because its a bigger hole but since I plugged the squirters off and run thicker oil it balances out and my oil pressure stays in the 90-100psi range. Lots of other reasons for on both sides of the argument to do with cooling, drag, and what not but you can google that.

 

well all the bearings are toast so it looks like i am pulling the motor and then having the crank checked out and possibly re surfaced then get all new bearing for the rods and mains and hopefull get some new oil squirters and probably just cut them down 3/8ths of an inch or so to make sure this crap never happens again. so what is the easiest was to clean the metal shavings out of the block? i am going to try and leave the head on the car since i dont think anything is wrong up top.

whats your thought on cleaning the oil pump by taking it apart?

 

If I were in your situation I would pull the engine out and have the block tanked and cleaned. Plus you have a little filter in the head I am sure has crap in it. Time for a new oil cooler, you may be able to get away with cleaning the pump but it's iffy. I'm 100% sure you should pull it all apart though, you don't want to keep chasing your tail and killing the turbo / cams / and other parts. You have bearing herpes, and there is no cure.

 

ya i guess i will probably pull the whole thing apart again. i am going to make the maching shop clean it since its possibly their fault that they installed those squirters wrong. there is no reason why this should have happened.

 

Do it right, or do it twice. Meaning pull it all apart and clean everything good and check bearings and everything else over which you did. But FYI (at least on the evo 8 motor) the main and rods can be changed, Both upper and lowers too. I just finished mine the other day. The uppers just need to be swung around the crank journal, mine were cake except for the #1 which had alot of pressure on it, assuming because the timing belt tension was pushing it up some. Make sure you backflush the oil cooler and lines if you dont mypass it or replace it.

 

I hope this isn't the same Hollywood from club3g...

The tips breaking off the oil squirters do jack crap to oil pressure. Oil pressure to the squirters is controlled by the bolt. It's spring loaded and requires X pressure to spray oil at the pistons. The net effect of the squirter tips breaking is that you shoot oil in a different direction.

His bearing failure CANNOT be attributed to the squirters breaking, it was something else.