Best BOV
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: Fort Jackson
Gfb
Hi
I did a test using the cobb port and found that the stock evo x bov does not hold PSI very well through the rev range.
From 3400 rpm I hit max boost in 3500 alt and temp 106 of 23PSI.
Then as I climbed in revs the PSI started to drop hard from 23 to 21at 4100RPM to 19psi at 6000 RPM then at 17psi from 6900RPM to redline.
I installed the Go Fast Bits Stealth FX bov then set the spring 2 full turns and set it to 30% vent - 70% rec and had a go.
Started to pick up boost a lot faster max boost of 23PSI was hit at 3200rpm by 4500RPM it started to drop to 22psi then 21psi at 5900RPM I was at 20psi then to 19psi and at 7100RPM to redline i was at 18psi.
So the stock bov is the real let down but the GFB held out very good also did runs in full rec and then full vent and no light no idel problems so all in all very good but I think they changed the model name so it might not be the stealth fx any more you would have to check there site.
My mods are perrin panel filter, cobb intake tube, pass word JDM upper intercooler pipe, Go Fast Bits Stealth FX BOV, and cobb 2011 evo x stage 1 ACN tune that is why make max boost is only at 23psi plus my alt also affects that.
I did a test using the cobb port and found that the stock evo x bov does not hold PSI very well through the rev range.
From 3400 rpm I hit max boost in 3500 alt and temp 106 of 23PSI.
Then as I climbed in revs the PSI started to drop hard from 23 to 21at 4100RPM to 19psi at 6000 RPM then at 17psi from 6900RPM to redline.
I installed the Go Fast Bits Stealth FX bov then set the spring 2 full turns and set it to 30% vent - 70% rec and had a go.
Started to pick up boost a lot faster max boost of 23PSI was hit at 3200rpm by 4500RPM it started to drop to 22psi then 21psi at 5900RPM I was at 20psi then to 19psi and at 7100RPM to redline i was at 18psi.
So the stock bov is the real let down but the GFB held out very good also did runs in full rec and then full vent and no light no idel problems so all in all very good but I think they changed the model name so it might not be the stealth fx any more you would have to check there site.
My mods are perrin panel filter, cobb intake tube, pass word JDM upper intercooler pipe, Go Fast Bits Stealth FX BOV, and cobb 2011 evo x stage 1 ACN tune that is why make max boost is only at 23psi plus my alt also affects that.
Just put the Synapse DV on and i will never change. You can tell a huge difference in the sound it makes over the stocker. Nothing annoying just MUCH louder!!! And it holds boost very well. Had a tune last week and was watching the boost and it very well!!!
SYNAPSE DV FTW!!!
SYNAPSE DV FTW!!!
Just put the Synapse DV on and i will never change. You can tell a huge difference in the sound it makes over the stocker. Nothing annoying just MUCH louder!!! And it holds boost very well. Had a tune last week and was watching the boost and it very well!!!
SYNAPSE DV FTW!!!
SYNAPSE DV FTW!!!
Either way, there is no "best" valve.. perhaps "best" for a particular build, but not in the general sense.
If your valve is leaking and you replace it with one that is not, power gains are expected.
paintball isn't that just a before and after CBRD tune? notice how your power curve continues to climb past the first tune?
it does appear that you were leaking slightly on the old BPV, but i think the tune did more of the power gain then the BOV did.
also it looks like between 5500-6000 you lean out a little. if you look at the AFR for the dotted line, you had a very rich spot in that same RMP, looks as though when the tuner went to correct it, he just made a little to much of a change in that one rpm/load area.
good looking curves though!
it does appear that you were leaking slightly on the old BPV, but i think the tune did more of the power gain then the BOV did.
also it looks like between 5500-6000 you lean out a little. if you look at the AFR for the dotted line, you had a very rich spot in that same RMP, looks as though when the tuner went to correct it, he just made a little to much of a change in that one rpm/load area.
good looking curves though!
Last edited by oftheheavens; Jul 22, 2011 at 11:15 AM.
paintball isn't that just a before and after CBRD tune? notice how your power curve continues to climb past the first tune?
it does appear that you were leaking slightly on the old BPV, but i think the tune did more of the power gain then the BOV did.
also it looks like between 5500-6000 you lean out a little. if you look at the AFR for the dotted line, you had a very rich spot in that same RMP, looks as though when the tuner went to correct it, he just made a little to much of a change in that one rpm/load area.
good looking curves though!
it does appear that you were leaking slightly on the old BPV, but i think the tune did more of the power gain then the BOV did.
also it looks like between 5500-6000 you lean out a little. if you look at the AFR for the dotted line, you had a very rich spot in that same RMP, looks as though when the tuner went to correct it, he just made a little to much of a change in that one rpm/load area.
good looking curves though!
I had a horrible time with my Tial QR Recirculating BOV.
Held boost great as far as I could tell, but so did a slightly crushed Works BOV.
The issue I had was that at part throttle boost between 18-24 psi or 40-50% TPS and trying to balance the car in turns where WOT would send you off track. The car would flutter and buck forcing you to treat the throttle like an on/off switch. Sure you can adjust your driving style but the whole idea is to keep the car on the edge but in balance unless you are purposely trying to loose traction to point the car a different direction.
This was with an 8 psi spring which would be slightly softer than recommended based on the 16.5 in vacuum the car had at idle. The 12 psi spring it came with bucked so hard at part throttle it was laughable, I never did try the 10 psi spring before the car had the fire but can't imagine that it would be better than the 8 psi spring that was softer.
Anyone else have this issue with the Tial at part throttle 18-24 psi at around 40-50% throttle?
I might consider the Synapse if it has enough adjustment to avoid flutter at higher boost. Either that or I'll just get another "similar to stock" Works BOV and slightly crush it if I need a few more psi.
Held boost great as far as I could tell, but so did a slightly crushed Works BOV.
The issue I had was that at part throttle boost between 18-24 psi or 40-50% TPS and trying to balance the car in turns where WOT would send you off track. The car would flutter and buck forcing you to treat the throttle like an on/off switch. Sure you can adjust your driving style but the whole idea is to keep the car on the edge but in balance unless you are purposely trying to loose traction to point the car a different direction.
This was with an 8 psi spring which would be slightly softer than recommended based on the 16.5 in vacuum the car had at idle. The 12 psi spring it came with bucked so hard at part throttle it was laughable, I never did try the 10 psi spring before the car had the fire but can't imagine that it would be better than the 8 psi spring that was softer.
Anyone else have this issue with the Tial at part throttle 18-24 psi at around 40-50% throttle?
I might consider the Synapse if it has enough adjustment to avoid flutter at higher boost. Either that or I'll just get another "similar to stock" Works BOV and slightly crush it if I need a few more psi.
I had a horrible time with my Tial QR Recirculating BOV.
Held boost great as far as I could tell, but so did a slightly crushed Works BOV.
The issue I had was that at part throttle boost between 18-24 psi or 40-50% TPS and trying to balance the car in turns where WOT would send you off track. The car would flutter and buck forcing you to treat the throttle like an on/off switch. Sure you can adjust your driving style but the whole idea is to keep the car on the edge but in balance unless you are purposely trying to loose traction to point the car a different direction.
This was with an 8 psi spring which would be slightly softer than recommended based on the 16.5 in vacuum the car had at idle. The 12 psi spring it came with bucked so hard at part throttle it was laughable, I never did try the 10 psi spring before the car had the fire but can't imagine that it would be better than the 8 psi spring that was softer.
Anyone else have this issue with the Tial at part throttle 18-24 psi at around 40-50% throttle?
I might consider the Synapse if it has enough adjustment to avoid flutter at higher boost. Either that or I'll just get another "similar to stock" Works BOV and slightly crush it if I need a few more psi.
Held boost great as far as I could tell, but so did a slightly crushed Works BOV.
The issue I had was that at part throttle boost between 18-24 psi or 40-50% TPS and trying to balance the car in turns where WOT would send you off track. The car would flutter and buck forcing you to treat the throttle like an on/off switch. Sure you can adjust your driving style but the whole idea is to keep the car on the edge but in balance unless you are purposely trying to loose traction to point the car a different direction.
This was with an 8 psi spring which would be slightly softer than recommended based on the 16.5 in vacuum the car had at idle. The 12 psi spring it came with bucked so hard at part throttle it was laughable, I never did try the 10 psi spring before the car had the fire but can't imagine that it would be better than the 8 psi spring that was softer.
Anyone else have this issue with the Tial at part throttle 18-24 psi at around 40-50% throttle?
I might consider the Synapse if it has enough adjustment to avoid flutter at higher boost. Either that or I'll just get another "similar to stock" Works BOV and slightly crush it if I need a few more psi.
I have pretty much the same issue with my Synapse DV. I am so frustrated with it, i put the stock BPV and now i am only holding 24 psi at redline.
I was considering the Tial QR but i dont know anymore.
