I purchased a 2010 GSR a couple weeks ago. I had it shipped to me and when it arrived my initial impression was that it didn't feel as fast as it should. I have an 06 sti and it felt far slower than that which I didn't expect. I initially chalked it up to the extra weight. After driving around for a few days I bought a Cobb AP and open cell filter from Perrin. I installed the filter and flashed the car with the flash from Perrin. It felt a little perkier off boost but not different on boost. So I concluded that there must be something wrong. I hooked up the AP and logged boost for a run through second gear and quickly go the answer I was looking for. The car holds around 11 psi all the way through the gear with the wgdc at 100% the whole time. I believe 11 psi is wastegate spring pressure?

I looked through all of the piping and small hoses and can't find anything disconnected and the car runs and idles very nicely.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should look for next? Car is completely stock other than the filter and Perrin OTS tune.

 

First off, the AP is a waste of money, especially since you live in the Chicagoland area. Second, take it to a shop because something is wrong.

 

Go away troll...

 

Did you buy it new or used?

 

We can debate about the AP all day. I didn't think $595 for nearly 50 whp from Perrin was a waste of money. Also, if you buy TBE or an intercooler from Perrin they will e-mail you their OTS maps that work with those parts for free! Then if I mod the car further I can get a tune at AMS and sell the AP for maybe $400. $200 for the extra power for a year or two before I mod this thing is worth it to me.

Getting back on track, does anybody have any advice on what to look for next before I go to a dealer and get the run around? Is it possible that the wastegate arm itself is bound? That might explain why it shows 100% wgdc but isn't building boost past what I am guessing is the spring pressure.

I am new to Evo's so any help would be appreciated.

 

I bought it used. I purchased it from a dealer in Florida and had it shipped up to Chicago. So taking it back to where I got it is not in the cards. I already stopped by the dealer in Schaumburg to ask a couple questions and they weren't too pleasant. I ordered an EBCS to see if the BCS is the issue.

 

I had a similar problem which was caused by a boost leak. I did not see any holes initially, but I decided to do a boost leak test. Made a device using a PVC cap, silicone coupler, a metal valve stem and used an compressor to push air into the system from the intake. I found my leak on two vacuum hoses.

 

It's got to have a massive boost leak I'm guessing. 11psi is wastegate spring pressure you are correct.

Areas to check:
1)UICP to turbo inlet
2)UICP to top of intercooler
3)LICP to bottom of intercooler
Those are some of the most common leaky areas, most of which I've experienced myself at one point or another, most recently my coupler from the UICP to turbo inlet ripped and you could hear the boost leak.

I'd do a boost leak test before wasting money on an electronic boost controller.

 

I think SilverEvoX hit the nail on the head. Do a boost leak check and see what's going on. Most of the time a boost leak will make the car run really poorly. 11psi is nothing for these cars.

Michael

 

probably someone had a 3port on there at one stage and they put back the stock setup but connected it wrong...

 

That was my guess as well, search around for a 3 port install thread it should show you which solenoid gets which plug, possible they have them reversed or not plugged in at all.

 

My guess would be the same. First check to see if the vacuum line is connect to the waste gate actuator. If it is indeed connected, then make sure the vacuum lines are connected to the stock boost control soleniod. If those are connected correctly, then check all vacuum lines for leaks.

 

yes and 2x check the hoses not only for loose hose connections, also for small cuts..this happened to me recently where i was having a boost leak..there was a small puncture in the hose to 3 port..the hose got punctured..it was at the part where the edge nipple is located..

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. I did a thorough inspection in there today and found that the clamp on the hose connecting to the BOV was not actually on. I moved it to the right place but that didn't fix anything. I tugged on every connection and tightened every single one that I could get a wrench or screwdriver on. I also pulled the heat shield off and moved the waste gate actuator arm to make sure it wasn't bound. None of that did anything. I checked the routing on the solenoid hoses. It all looks right according to the diagram on the bottom of the hood.

I am going to put together a boost leak tester at home depot tomorrow and see what that shows me. I logged a pull today and it shows that the boost spikes to 15 psi when the throttle is initial applied but just for a moment and then stays rock solid at 11.9 or 12.0.

I have only had the car for around 500 miles so this is depressing. Hopefully the boost leak test shows the answer.

Thanks again for the helpful tips.

 

I'm not sure if my question was answered before, did you buy this new or used?

If you bought it used, make sure you have the wastegate actuator side pill in the hose. If you do not have this pill the car will run wastegate pressure.