Engine is getting ready to be built next week, and I'm of the mindset of getting it broke in on the Dyno.

What are the main differences? Advantages/Disadvantages?

Can you guys share some experiences? Suggestions or recommendations?

 

I would if it's the engine builder doing it. Let them "own" the motor until it's proven to stay together. They should also tune it so that when you hit the road it's all ready and you dont have knock issues etc.

 

I basically broke mine in on the dyno and then the next day drove 1200 miles. The car hadn't been started for over a year and nearly everything was replaced. Lowkey is right, I mean I didn't run into any issues but I was 5 hours away from my builder if something did go wrong.

 

Follow whatever procedure your engine builder recommends.

 

If they can and they will let them do it and my top three reasons are:

1. You don't have to so no gueswork involved.
2. It breaks you got an additional layer of warranty/recourse.
3. You're ready to roll 100% once you get your car back.

 

a) do not change your injector and intake setup, this will help make initial startup go smoothly.

b) do vacuum pulls on the street

c) follow whatever procedures your engine builder recommends.
c--basically you want to start with cheap-*** 10w30 from o'reily or whatever. Get the engine fully warmed up while idling, then change the oil and check for leaks. Then go out and immediately do vacuum pulls in 2nd gear, don't go to far, come back and check for leaks. Then venture further and vacuum pulls in 2nd, 3rd, 4th. This is light accelleration, 0-5psi absolute max up to about 5500 rpm at first then let fully off the throttle and let the car coast down in gear to ~2500rpm, then grab the next gear, etc. After a few of those, go a little higher, 6000-6500rpm again coasting down to 3000 or so.

Change the oil again after ~100 miles or whatever, 10w30 cheap dino oil again. Drive the car nice and do vacuum pulls as often as you can. Anytime you're going to hit the brakes is another opportunity to get some vacuum on the motor. At 500 miles the motor is probably about as broken in as it will get. Either change oil to a nice thick synthetic (10w40-ish) and start in-boost tuning. OR be safe like me and go another 500 miles or so on dino oil and change again.

I think I went all the way to 1500 miles for full break-in on my car, vacuum pulls and cheapo o'reily brand 10w30 the whole way. It took a while but idk, maybe it was worth it. 19k miles on the motor now and it's still healthy.


You will read reviews like this all over the Internet. Just KISS, be nice to the car and be logical with what you're doing. There's lots of ways to do it but they're all roughly the same in the end: several frequent oil changes with dino oil and vacuum pulls up front, then give'er synthetic and boost

 

Here are some issues with dyno tuning that Jack's has translated to me. Granted, this might be due to the altitude, I am not sure, but here is the information for your edification:

· Damage to transmission gears due to inadequate cooling and too much loading on a dyno.
· Engine IC and cooling system overworked due to inadequate air flow from a fan which can’t move the same air found on the road.
· Timing maps which are never correct as the loading is not the same on the dyno over the street.