mshilto89

iTrader: (2)

So I'm getting a little overwhelmed here. I'm going back to the dealership tomorrow to get my trans looked at due to the notchy//grinding shifts and see if there is anything they can do. I wanted to ask you guys if there is anything you recommend me asking them to do? Any fluid changes that will cause a notchy shift? Maybe transmission fluid? I've noticed if I shift hard it will grind going into 3rd most of the time and less often going into 2nd after it is warm. Also as I shift, if I shift slow and kind of "glide" it into gear, it won't grind at all. Am I being paranoid here or do I have a serious issue?.

Also I noticed after I shut the car off if I'm changing gears and the clutch is in while its off and parked, I get almost like a loose bolt sound like something is jingling around in the transmission as I shift. You can only hear it with the windows down and the car off.

Again I've had the car for a week now and it's my first evo so not sure what to do right now. I have no major issues with the car aside from squealing brakes but I just want to make sure there is nothing seriously wrong with the car.
Thanks for the help in advance guys.

johnnnyjeans

iTrader: (10)

immediately change your factory fluids out. they suck. get redline cocktail for your new trans fluid. a front lower motor mount will stop your motor from rocking so much and allow you to shift easier. beware of slight vibration from motor install which will smooth out after 500miles break in. Make sure to get polyurethane bushings for the motor mount. I suggest torque solutions. Get the whole mount, not just the inserts. the insert install alone is a pita.


i've had a 2008 evo x, then a 2005 evo 8, now im going for a 2011-2013 evo x.

mshilto89

iTrader: (2)

I have a 2010 forgot to mention it's used (sorry) It currently has about 37,500 miles on it. What exactly is the redline cocktail? How hard is it to change the fluids and the motor mounts?

Svendiesel

iTrader: (25)

I'd have to disagree with OEM fluids sucking. OEM fluids are the way to go, even in built trans/tcase applications except for super high torque cars it's common to see heavy shockproof used in the transfer case. But, even so, OEM diaqueen is awesome fluid for transmissions in stock or built form.

The primary cause of notchy/poor shifts is an improperly adjusted clutch pedal. Essentially, the clutch is dragging between shifts and is not fully disengaging so there is a lot of strain on the internals. If that doesnt solve it, fluid certainly wont. If it does, it will be temporary. Try bleeding the line too for the slave cylinder.

ugakirk

iTrader: (14)

As far as I know, the pedal in the X can not be adjusted.. It can if you have an aftermarket CMC tho..

With 37k miles, the tranny fluid may have never been changed. See and check the maintenance records to see if any of the fluids were swapped. That is supposed to be done at 30k atleast. I do mine at 15k.

And yes, the OEM fluid for the X tranny makes shifting a little rough.. especially when it gets a little age on it. Most people either use these in the tranny: OEM fluid, AMSoil, or the Redline cocktail.

I'm at 46k miles and have used AMSoil everytime. It is still a little rough on cold mornings but shifts much better when warm. Most people say Redline is better when cold..

You can also try a TWM or Works short shifter and shifter bushings and a heavy shift knob. Those helped me considerably as well..

Svendiesel

iTrader: (25)

The closest shop to you would be E-Spec I believe. Ive heard nothing but good things about E-spec.

AkumaMotorsport

We would be happy to help! Shoot us a call (732) 326-0090

mshilto89

iTrader: (2)

Well I went to the dealership today. They couldn't get me in because they were swamped so they scheduled me for Monday, but they told me it sounded like 1 of 4 things
1. The fluid could need to be replaced.
2. The clutch could be shot.
3. The synchros are bad, but when they go bad it usually happens in a pattern, as in gears 1-2, 3-4, or 5-R.
4. The transmission may need to be replaced (It's still under the 60k mile limited power-train warranty according to the dealer.)

Not sure which direction this could be headed in but had the car for a week now and starting to get kind of worried about buying a used car now.

How would I be able to tell if the clutch is going bad? I don't ride the clutch and "I" haven't launched it at all (not sure about the previous owner). I have been babying the car and it will go into gear without notchiness or grinding if I ease it into 3rd gear (VERY slowly) and if I'm not at high RPM's. Please tell me I'm being paranoid here

I got the car from a Mitsu dealer so if it is the clutch hopefully they'll replace it, but if not how much would a clutch job cost for parts and labor? (The dealer said a clutch job would be about $1200, they didn't specify if they'd fix it for free) If that is the issue and they won't fix it I would just go with a basic clutch, nothing fancy.

The previous owner did have all of the services done on it 15k and 30k and all of the other services (changing oil basically). Right now it's got just about 38k miles on it and no other issues as far as I can tell aside from squeaky brakes.

Has anyone else had any issues with synchros? Don't know a lot about that.
Thanks for the help guys!

mshilto89

iTrader: (2)

So just a little update. I did some "spirited" driving last night. Nothing crazy, kept it within the speed limits and all. But accelerated more quickly than usual, gave it a little more gas in the turns and on the straights. I noticed when I did this, the car shifted fine. No grinding, no notchiness, no hard shifts..... nothing. It was like a completely different car. I even noticed that my temperature gauge was reading about 1-2 notches higher than usual, although after I had parked for about 2 minutes it went back down to normal (was letting the turbo cool down before I shut it off) Temps here have been in between 14-20 degrees Fahrenheit the past few days so I figured it is probably running a lot colder than usual

However on the last leg before I got home, I had to drive slow (residential area) and as soon as I went back to shifting under 3k RPM's it picked right back up where it left off. Notchiness going 1-2, and slight grind going 2-3. So lost at this point. Anyways, back to listening to strange sounds and granny shifting to keep it from grinding, can't afford to keep gas in it if I drive it all the time like I did last night... Hopefully the dealer will resolve the issue on Tuesday when I go in. At least I hope so....

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

http://www.maperformance.com/krackas...l#.UQKraoaBy24

Problem solved.

hackerrei

Do the consol bushing really make a difference when installing a short shift or are the stock ones still good with a short shift?

Jason S-9

mshilto89, I have the exact same situation with my car. If I drive spritied the trans shifts great, if I drive slower (normal traffic speeds) I get a crunchy 2-3 shift and overall a bit more notchy.

Kracka is not just trying to sell something with his name on it All thoes parts will probabally fix the issue, I've got the cocktail fluid, it helps. Just need to get the rest now, and take out the clutch restrictor pill.

Do you have your clutch pill still in Kracka? I know you are still running the stock clutch

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

Do it all, do it once, do it right. Are they absolutely needed? Probably not, but yes, they do help, and while you're in there you may as well make things as good as possible.
Just to clarify, I get nothing by selling that kit. It's just a package that I've put together that works really well for me, and it's a hell of a lot easier to link that one page than each component individually like I used to have to do!

My clutch pill has been gone since 3k miles and this is something I recommend everyone do, no matter how you drive the car.

mshilto89

iTrader: (2)

Well first off I want to get the dealer to look at the problem just to verify that its not a more serious issue. I know this is what you get when your in the used vehicle territory, but I want to make sure I have it documented at the dealer first off. That way I can at least get them to change out the tranny fluid to new OEM fluid first. If that doesn't help I ordered the AMSOIL 75-90 GL4 fluid, so I'll do that next if the issue persists. Then, if the issue is STILL there, I'm going to do the package that Kracka recommended. My biggest concern is getting it documented at the dealer first so that if I have an issue later down the road I have proof that it was documented. I guess I'm just gonna have to play it by ear so to speak.

mshilto89

iTrader: (2)

What exactly does removing the restrictor pill do? Is it very difficult? From what I've read it lowers the clutch engagement. How does that help exactly?