Horrible mpgs here. Help.
I think im gonna go with a tune, intake, and exhaust and ill keep you informed. How long do threads last on here?
95%+ of the time you drive around town (unless you drive like a jackass) you're in closed loop with a 14.7AFR. Nothing you do will change your mileage other than tires, weight reduction, aerodynamics, or increased timing (not sure if timing is optimal when running in closed loop by default or not).
New car
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Seriously though, I think you should either sell it or buy a civic for daily driving. It sucks, but you chose the way wrong car for wanting any sort of good gas mileage.
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Seriously though, I think you should either sell it or buy a civic for daily driving. It sucks, but you chose the way wrong car for wanting any sort of good gas mileage.
A couple off the wall suggestions....keeping your car clean/waxed/buffed will help in fuel economy (less air drag) but again, somewhat insignificant. You could also shift into neutral when coasting downhill or to a stop light.
i too have an SE. have read. and u seem to be getting the average, as others have said. :/ i dont think u shuld worry with it if ur willing to put up the power. i have the same car and babying it gets me something fair....
these are mine.

i get a solid 18-19mpg in the city and 25 - 26 on the hwy on the X.
i mean its not GREAT. and definitly not good for a 4 cylinder ( i was doing 24-25 city and 30-32 highway in the GTS)
but for a turbo car i think its good. better than 14 city in my ram 1500
these are mine.

i get a solid 18-19mpg in the city and 25 - 26 on the hwy on the X.
i mean its not GREAT. and definitly not good for a 4 cylinder ( i was doing 24-25 city and 30-32 highway in the GTS)
but for a turbo car i think its good. better than 14 city in my ram 1500
Last edited by wolfwood5; Nov 5, 2013 at 10:23 AM.
When coasting in the MR it is still attached to the driveline, and engine, putting drag on the car. You might be idling, but you're going to coast much further in neutral. The end goal is MILES per gallon....you're going to spend less fuel overall per mile in neutral and coasting as much as possible.
and FWIW...
I filled up in town yesterday, and drove 160 miles to san antonio getting there with little over half a tank left at 25.8 mpg going 65mph. I got tuned yesterday, filled up before leaving, and came back those 160 miles with the same results, little over half a tank except getting 24mpg going 70mph.
I filled up in town yesterday, and drove 160 miles to san antonio getting there with little over half a tank left at 25.8 mpg going 65mph. I got tuned yesterday, filled up before leaving, and came back those 160 miles with the same results, little over half a tank except getting 24mpg going 70mph.
When coasting in the MR it is still attached to the driveline, and engine, putting drag on the car. You might be idling, but you're going to coast much further in neutral. The end goal is MILES per gallon....you're going to spend less fuel overall per mile in neutral and coasting as much as possible.
If a car is in neutral and therefore idling and using fuel, regardless of what else is true, it is getting less than infinite MPG.
Now, if someone were to say that MRs either don't have coasting fuel-cut in gear or do cut fuel when out of gear and rolling (which is also known as stalling), then you might have a point.
Does it take energy to turn over a non running (powered) engine? Yes. Where is this energy coming from? It's coming from the kinetic energy in the moving vehicle. Therefor, by adding resistance to the coasting (being in gear) vehicle you are using the kinetic energy to slow your vehicle that could otherwise be used to keep it travelling. You will get more mileage in neutral per gas spent. The generally accepted theory is that energy cannot be created or destroyed. The amount of fuel used while idling is negligible....


