Eric30

Ok I need some advice please. I have a 2013 GSR that just rolled 12k. It has a Cobb ap running ots stage 1 map, Cobb intake, Cobb bov, comp clutch stage 3 & comp clutch ultra light flywheel.

The clutch was installed about 1,200 miles ago. After getting that done my car on occasion would idle a little rough. It did throw a code saying miss in cylinder 4. I assumed ( like an *** hole ) that it might have been bad gas. I have only ever used 93 since I drove it off the lot. I reset the code and it did not come back on and seemed to run really good.
As I was getting on the highway a few days ago I heard a very very slight knock only at very light throttle, I jumped off the first exit 1 mile after the knock started. When I pulled away from the exit to get to a parking lot the very slight knock became a very loud clunky knock along with a major loss of power. So I get the car into a parking lot and pop the hood, it's got oil all over the lower drivers side of the engine. I took the intake off to get a better look and found oil everywhere even in the intake.
I had a mechanic look and listen to it and he said as soon as he heard it " Connecting rod blew but your lucky the motor can be salvaged it's not at the point of no return".
Now I am looking for any advice anyone can give me on what this sounds like and how this might have happened.
I did call the dealer and was honest with the service manager. He said have it towed in and I asked if I should put the stock parts back on and he said , yea if you have them it might be a good idea to put them on.
Just a word about my driving. I do not drive my car very hard at all, I take care of it and do not beat on it. It is an EVO and is made to be driven somewhat hard, I probably drive it pretty easy compared to how most are driven.
I have done a lot of searching and found some others with similar problems.

Thanks

E

Mystykalbaby

Did you make any logs or anything. they guys here will probably need some more data. What gear where you in? What speed?

That sucks. But good luck to you.

Eric30

I do not have any logs. I thought I was playing safe with having so little work done. The knock first started as soon as I got into 3rd gear while getting onto the highway. I shifted into 3rd around 3500-4000 rpm. Once it started I went as easy as possible just to get off of the highway.
Once I was stopped the really loud knock was happening at idle. Hope some of this helps.

Nagua

iTrader: (1)

Yep sounds like a rod went. Do not drive it and get it to a shop for inspection. Hopefully things are not so tore up. I have plenty of Cobb products and their tune which is custom. No issues and WOT is normal for me.

Eric30

What are some things that would cause the rod to go?

Nagua

iTrader: (1)

PRE-DETONATION KNOCK. When the explosion within the cylinder happens before it should (out of sync with timing) it puts stress on internals. Eventually something (the weak link) will break/fail. In your case the rod.

Eric30

Is this anything I could have done either with the work or driving? Or is this just an unfortunate event that sometimes happens?

alsong2002

iTrader: (2)

it shoulds similar to what happened to me 2 weeks ago. I heard a loud bang during 3rd gear pull. i was in the middle of etune and logging. I did a compression test and my cylinder 4 has zero compression. but my car didnt throw any cel, maybe it will if i kept drive it or turn it on.

OP, if you haven't done the compression test, i suggest you to do it asap, that will probably tells you more whats going on with your car now. after that, i also suggest you to do leak down test.
leak down test will tells you more about your car now than the compression test.

Eric30

I do not have the ability or knowledge to run any of these test, I really wish I knew a lot more then I do.
My car has just been towed to the dealer, I did put the stock intake and bov on and flashed it back to stock. Now I wait to see what happens.

alsong2002

iTrader: (2)

Op, good luck to you. i hope the dealer will not give you hassles. but be prepare to at least build your head (luckily if only head damage).

in my situation, i am getting the whole engine rebuild.

powerdriver

Wait what...
If he's got rod knock the last thing you want to do is do a compression test.
1. Find out where the oil is leaking from. If it isn't your fault, time to find the person to blame.
2. It's under warranty.
3. Revert to stock intake, stock tune, unmarry the AP, and tow it to the dealership.
4. Warranty for a new motor, profit???

alsong2002

iTrader: (2)

i will not trust dealer to fix the car unless they warranty you a brand new engine. the dealer tech are not dealing with evo engine a lot.
if they need to open your engine, i suggest you find a good performance shop to do the job for you. it will be costly, but at least i found someone that i can trust to touch my engine.

powerdriver

Free vs. expensive.

Take the free option. It's *FREE*

shekaar

iTrader: (3)

Assuming anything is under warranty. Putting mods back to stock doesn't fool a tech, it's blatantly obvious to most that a car has been modded then reverted back for a service check. They can void related damage if they decide to.

Eric30

If my warranty will cover the repairs I will let the dealer do the work. If they will not then I would never have them do the work, I will bring my car to R/T Tuning in lansdale PA. I am keeping my fingers crossed that it will be covered under warranty, I really don't seem to think that with he little work I did do could have caused this and I am really not hard on my car at all. As far as mods go, I only had a few things done, Cobb Intake, Cobb bov, and a Cobb AP ots stage 1 tune. It's been that way since about 4,000 miles and it only has 12,028 on it right now. I'm hoping for the best here.

Thanks
E