The stock clutch on my 2011 made it to 80,000 miles and was still going strong until I upgraded to comp stage 2. I never launch my evo but do drive spiritedly.

 

Hey man all im saying is i was not alone with the clutch slipping 2-3 months after a brand new purchase, also I am not alone with issues when shifting from 1st - 2nd, you have to almost force it sometimes because of resistance at any speed from 10-20mph. I've seen double clutching it helps it out a bit, but it doesnt smoothly shift into 2nd, and again I wasnt the only one.

 

I would say have the dealer take a look at it as having to double clutch is not normal operation.

My 2014 clutch has been just fine, 100whp more than stock, 13,000 miles so far.

A couple issues in a couple cars does not make it a OEM issue.

 

I had my clutch replaced under warranty on my 08 with 1,700 miles on it. The rear main seal bolt had loosened and leaked oil/fluid onto my flywheel.

They said they would tear it apart and found the reason.

If you were beating on your clutch, there will be blue spots on the flywheel from the heat.

 

I'm on a stock clutch with 26k miles. 20k of those on an upgraded turbo and the last 10k with 400wtq and 500whp. The key in my opinion is properly rev matching on downshifts and to not launch the car at all if you want the stock clutch to last. I've never launched it once.

 

You killed the clutch. The Evo in stock form has a very weak clutch to save the drive train. The thing slips even in stock forum. You basically killed it, look into a heavy duty clutch but beware if you are harsh on it your transfer case will go next.


Regards

 

My stock clutch lasted almost 40k miles with the bolt ons you see in my sig for the majority of it.

This was with he occasional launch and frequent spirited driving.

I think that's pretty good for a stock clutch that's only rated for a stock car.

 

My IX MR lasted 46,000 when I had 350WHP but yeah new drivers will kill the clutch.

 

I drive a 2014 evo and have been having the same problem. I have driven standard cars for some twenty years ao the problem maybe the clutch its self

 

clutch is fine. I have a tuned 2014 GSR . 24K miles in it , many many lunches and hard driving.
Clutch is still holding strong no sign for fatigue what so ever.
OEM clutch is start letting go, over 350 ft/lb tq in my experience. Under that, it is a great clutch.

Just because many people complain they burned the clutch that doesnt mean that is a clutch problem. I bet if the clutch would hold, then the same exact people would start complaining about broken transfer cases.

I hope you wont take it a wrong way.

Rob

PS: i dont even removed the clutch pill yet. Damn i want that thing out soo bad. And still stock CMC.

 

400awhp 352awtq. Launched several times. Several Dyno pulls and still running strong! Sounds like your slipping the clutch too much off the line to get it to move quicker in stop and go traffic. If your looking for a car to be quick off the line in normal driving conditions, you bought the wrong car.

 

2013 GSR, ~36,000 miles, 380 awhp/360 ftlbs, spirited daily driver, stock clutch still grabs like new.

 

Glazed like a Shipley's donut lol, sucks man

 

Yes my 2014 Mitsubishi Evolution I bought off the showroom floor 4 and a half months ago and my clutch is also burned out I just recently got it replaced last week. I have also been a driver of standard vehicles since I was 17.
There's got to be a problem because there's no way that stock clutch should have burnt up at all. And I refuse to race or launch my evo till it's out of warranty. Then I'll build it up.

 

Nope. Sorry guys.

Again, my 2014 is two years old, making 131whp/102wtq more than stock on E85, countless WOT pulls, has been driven at four track days so far (approx 100 miles of track usage each event), was used to commute 50 miles a day for a bit and is still on the original clutch.

It's ALL driving style. You can be a driver for the last 50yrs and still kill clutches.