I have just had the transfer case replaced on my 2010 Exo X SE.
I am looking for guidance on the recommended break in.
How many miles ?
How long should I start the car for before driving and leave on after driving ?
How hard can I mash the gas or should I avoid high rpms and hard throttle ?
Should I follow up with a fluid flush on the transfer case after a recommended break in period ?
Any other suggestions (well almost any) would be welcomed.

Thanks

FSD

 

Break it in the way you drive it. Hard!

 

Bueller ?

 

"Break-in Procedure:


City driving is best because of all the casual shifting that is involved.
Drive gently, let the synchronizers bed-in slowly so they work better and last longer.
Do not attempt to shift fast during the break-in procedure, let the parts bed-in!
Do not accelerate hard in any gear; shot peened gears need time to bed-in so they don't scuff. After a few hundred miles the machine surface finish of the teeth will be perfect.
Do not launch the car for at least 500 miles; shot peened gears need time to bed-in so they don't scuff. Taking your time with the break-in procedure is important, don't rush it.
Do not force transmission into gear, if transmission blocks any shift, the clutch is not disengaging fully.
The transmission will be a little stiff at first, like a new pair of shoes, but should not block any shifts. If the transmission is blocking any shifts or is difficult to shift into gear from neutral your clutch is not disengaging fully. Understand that the synchros job is to block the shift if the speeds are not synchronized so don't force it into gear. Instead find the source of the problem and correct it. If you need technical assistance with anything transmission related please send us an email so we can help troubleshoot the problem.
Over the course of the hundred miles it should be shifting very well. If you have questions or concerns please contact us, we want you to be happy.
After 500 miles it would be wise to change the transmission oil. Oil recommendations
Synchronizers take time to fully bed in. After a few thousand miles it will be shifting at its best.

A short word about transmission gears. Transmission gears are exceptionally strong and generally have a hardness of 58-62HRC. It is because of their hardness that the gears will take quite a while to fully bed-in together before ultimate power handling capabilities can be obtained. The are several reasons for this and they all revolve around the manufacture's ability to hold tolerance on the parts and to what AGMA or DIN that they cared to produce in the first place. In a perfect world, everything is machined right on the money and you have full and proper contact of the gears that are in mesh but I can assure you that parts are less that perfect and will require some drive time to fully bed-in before you go out there and explore the limits of how much power they can handle without failure. Transmission gears can take as many as 5,000 miles to fully bed themselves in, allowing for full contact and the most strength, and it is wise to let any new or recently rebuilt transmission gears bed-in before pushing the gears to their material limits regardless of what people may tell you.

A word about synchronizers. Transmission synchronizers, like brake pads, will require some time for their friction surfaces to fully develop. Do not shift a freshly rebuilt transmission fast or at high rpms for this bed-in process requires that you drive the car gently and shift slowly, allowing the synchronizers time to do their job until the surface have developed their full final finish which provides the most friction and ultimately the best shift quality. Just like brake pads, this process doesn't happen quickly and takes a few hundred miles of city driving, where you are shifting through the gears often. During this time you will notice that as you drive & shift through the gears the transmission shift quality will continue to improve as you drive the car.

More about synchronizers. By design, synchronizers will block the driver from completing their shift into any gear, and for that matter, even shifting into a gear in the first place if the speed of the clutch disc, input shaft & various other components doesn’t match the speed of the gear they are shifting into. My expertise is modifying transmissions to shift at extremely high rpms, there is no equal. However it is crucial that your clutch is operating properly, with sufficient release to allow the clutch disc, input shaft & various other components to be “free” of the engine’s rotating speed thus allowing them to slow down and match the speed of the gear you are shifting into. Please make the effort on your part to insure that your transmission shifts at its best by following the above instructions on this page.

The synchros are NOT designed or capable of dealing with a clutch that doesn’t have enough release. If you are having trouble getting into any gears while the car is running or are experiencing blocking or “notchy” shifting; you must check your clutch to make sure that you have it properly adjusted or you will cause damage to the synchronizers that is not covered under warranty. Every effort has been taken to ensure that your transmission is capable of shifting at high rpms while retaining long synchro life. It is sole responsibility of the driver or installer to make sure that the clutch is properly adjusted so that is has sufficient release to allow the synchros to do their job without the clutch disc dragging on the flywheel/pressure plate assembly. If you have questions, contact me. Thanks."

http://www.teamrip.com/manual%20tran...roceedure.html

 

Thanks Ronaldo, that is good info. My SST automatic transmission has 53k on it already.

It is the Transfer Case that just got replaced. I'm sure there are similarities in break in I just wanted to make sure that I strictly adhere to the correct break in procedure.

 

However due to the info you gave and the link I was able to find their recommendations -

The greatest damage to any new ring & pinion gearset commonly occurs during the first few hundred miles while the gears are bedding-in. If driven hard, you will overheat and damage to the gears. This is because the surface finish of the gears are not perfectly matched and need some run-time to bed the gears to their match. Even though the new ring & pinion gears are lapped in they still must have sufficient run-time to allow the contact pattern to properly develop.

Over the course of a few hundrd miles the gears will bed-in, increasing the load bearing surface area which improves the overall durability of the gearset. It takes much longer than you think for the EVO transfer case gears to bed-in and the longer you can wait before kicking it's *** the better.

Recommend procedure for breaking-in your new ring & pinion:

Follow the transfer case filling instructions provide on the FAQ section of this site. Vehicle speeds should stay below 60 mph for the first 100 miles. Drive the vehicle 10-20 miles, stop and let cool for 30 minutes.Do not abuse or dump the clutch or do any hard acceleration as let the ring & pinion bed-in gently. If you take it easy on a new ring & pinion and perform regular oil changes it will last much longer. Use caution when letting out the clutch as aggressive high rpm clutch dumps can fatigue parts and may lead to eventual failures.

New or recently rebuilt transfer cases should have the oil changed after the initial first 500 and again after 1000 miles. TRE adds a Moly assembly additive to transfer case, do not be alarmed by the color of the oil. Vehicles that are being road raced require race car maintenance and all drivetrain oils should be inspected after each race and changed if the oil is dark or stinky. Road racing applications may add an additional 1/2 pint of oil to the transfer case for added lubrication and cooling.

http://www.teamrip.com/transfer_case...roceedure.html

Thanks Ronaldo

 

Good luck with your new Transfer case!