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Blown piston and damaged block

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Old Oct 3, 2016 | 12:55 PM
  #16  
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From: KSA
Originally Posted by roach85
Well do yourself a favor and upgrade the valvetrain while your doing the bottom end. Do not just replace with OEM components. Do it right and do it once. Good luck
What do you suggest?
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Old Oct 3, 2016 | 12:57 PM
  #17  
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From: KSA
Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
That is detonation damage on the piston. Probably not the fuel's fault. But how you were driving. You need to inform your tuner that you plan doing very long and extended WOT runs on the freeway like that. Things need to be changed in the tune to accommodate the heat soak everything is going to experience to prevent engine damage. Richer AFR's, less aggressive timing, etc.
Im not doing that again lol. I will use the Evo for quick bursts 1-4 gears and thats it. No more crazy stuff, i will keep that for the GT3 when it arrives.
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Old Oct 3, 2016 | 03:06 PM
  #18  
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From: Carrollton, Texas
AMS 2.4 crate motor with a ATP stock location GTX3576R and a super conservative tune. Wide powerband.
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 04:28 AM
  #19  
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From: KSA
My mechanic is telling me we can clean the block 0.020 over and just use AMS 0.020 over pistons and rods instead of buying an assembled shortblock.

Is it ok to over to do that to the Evo aluminum block?
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 08:41 AM
  #20  
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Yes. It has steel liners.
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 07:10 AM
  #21  
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From: KSA
We are putting the engine back together, what is the best spark plugs to go with? I guess i should go one or two steps colder since we have bad fuel and high heat here.
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 08:25 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by LSs1Power
We are putting the engine back together, what is the best spark plugs to go with? I guess i should go one or two steps colder since we have bad fuel and high heat here.
stock is 8

OEM
NGK ILKR8E6 (earlier)
NGK DILKR8B6 (later)

Upgrades
NGK Racing R2556B-9
NGK Racing R2556B-8
HKS M45XL (heat range 9)
HKS M40XL (heat range 8)
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Old Oct 23, 2016 | 07:12 AM
  #23  
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From: KSA
My car is alive again and doing well so far. I did 200 miles yesterday to break it in. I will take it for a retune with the snow performance methanol injection next weekend after completing at least 600miles.

I love the Gauge pod, fit and finish feel original and now i can actually see what my car is doing. Wish i got oil pressure instead of the boost gauge as Snow Performance provides a boost reading as well.
Attached Thumbnails Blown piston and damaged block-img_0355.jpg  
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 02:41 AM
  #24  
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...
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 06:43 AM
  #25  
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Dang you got that back together in under a month wowzers.
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 07:13 AM
  #26  
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From: KSA
Originally Posted by hoobastnk90
Dang you got that back together in under a month wowzers.
Actually, three weeks thanks to AMS and Vivid Racing for sending the needed parts quickly. Also thanks to my local engine builder who managed to put it all together within few days.
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 03:02 PM
  #27  
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From: KSA
Update:

Thanks to Chris he sent me a tune for a hi-map using 91 octane with methanol set to start at 12psi and spray full at 18psi. I did multiple logs today and i have reached 30psi at 3800rpm and dropped to 18psi at 8000RPM. Car felt strong but i need to dyno to see what im putting down now.

One interesting observation about the snow performance stage 2, it dropped IAT from 104f to 69f going from 2nd to 4th gear. In 2nd gear i have seen up to 2-3 knock sum but when manifold temps dropped below 96f it was zero knock all the way to 69f. Ambient temps were around 86f and i was running the hi map 30psi peak here.

I did another log with no methanol and low map which peaks around 25psi, manifold temps went up to 107f and it held steady at that temp from 2nd to 4th. Im running AMS intercooler.
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 02:20 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by LSs1Power
Update:

Thanks to Chris he sent me a tune for a hi-map using 91 octane with methanol set to start at 12psi and spray full at 18psi. I did multiple logs today and i have reached 30psi at 3800rpm and dropped to 18psi at 8000RPM. Car felt strong but i need to dyno to see what im putting down now.

One interesting observation about the snow performance stage 2, it dropped IAT from 104f to 69f going from 2nd to 4th gear. In 2nd gear i have seen up to 2-3 knock sum but when manifold temps dropped below 96f it was zero knock all the way to 69f. Ambient temps were around 86f and i was running the hi map 30psi peak here.

I did another log with no methanol and low map which peaks around 25psi, manifold temps went up to 107f and it held steady at that temp from 2nd to 4th. Im running AMS intercooler.
How is the car running?
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 07:27 PM
  #29  
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From: KSA
Originally Posted by Anthony@AMS
How is the car running?
Car is running great now after more massage work on the tune. I did few runs yesterday and it felt stronger than before. Thanks for asking Anthony.
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 10:22 AM
  #30  
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Blown a hole in my engine... need some advice..

:h elpme:

I am researching and wanting to know if any of you have built a 4b11t. I have a friend that has a whole engine that I am getting his engine from and it has a little bit of marks in the cylinder from a piston ring scratching it. So my questions are as follows.

As I understand that the OEM bore and stroke is 86mm by 86 mm, what is the biggest bore you can give these engines?

If I plan on just going to 88mm by 88mm, what would be my liter size?

What do you think is the best rods to use in a 1000hp build?

If I plan on building the bottom in so much what upgrades would I need on the top in?




I have a lot of questions but let see what answers I get back on this first.

Jason
Attached Thumbnails Blown piston and damaged block-20161126_165929.jpg   Blown piston and damaged block-20161126_120230.jpg   Blown piston and damaged block-20161126_120241.jpg  
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