six40

I recently pulled the engine out of my 2008 GSR, and I was going to replace the slipping clutch anyways. However, this is what the flywheel came out looking like:





And most importantly:







As you can probably tell/see, the two big heat marks you see on the face of the flywheel in the first pic went all the way through to the back (second pic) where you can see the discoloration. The pressure plate had similar markings on it's surface, matching those of the flywheel, if that makes sense. I was going to get the flywheel re-surfaced, however, the fact it's changing colours on the backside has me thinking otherwise. I am going to say, it may be due to improper installation of the old clutch by the previous owner, or improper machining by whoever did it. Despite the flywheel surface being glazed in spots, other spots still show the machining marks so the disk was not making full contact.


Anyways, this leads me to my next question... Do I buy a new OEM one for $480 or do I go with an ACT Streetlite for $425. The pricing is in Canadian dollars, and it's not too big of a difference so I am not concerned. I just want the better of the two flywheels.


My understanding is the ACT is actually a couple pounds heavier than the factory flywheel. The car will likely be getting a Competition "stage 4" 6-puck, and power goals are 450-480hp and 380ft-lbs to the wheels on the FP Black. And I do plan to occasionally launch the car.


Seems most people have reviews of the flywheel plus "xxx" clutch. I am just looking for more info/comparisons on just the flywheels, from people that have perhaps used both.


Thank you.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I would get the ACT streetlite. They are thicker in the friction area, and deal with heat better.


The uneven wear on the flywheel is because it probably shouldn't have been machined when the clutch was replaced, it should have been replaced. Those heat marks are hard spots, and no matter how badass the machining equipment is, they leave high spots...

LiX

iTrader: (1)

My stock flywheel looked similar on the back side after driving it 2 months with slipping stock clutch.
On the front side it was not that bad, but overall it was warped. Probably because of continuous heat cycles.

Now I'm with ACT Streetlite flywheel + Comp Clutch stage 3 (segmented ceramic) and it feels great!

4b11slayer

Trash.
Streetlight act with hdss act.

Thats how hot your clutch disk gets when it slips on thr flywheel.

six40

Awesome those are good replies. I was thinking the same but I'm still fairly new to this platform so I figured I would ask. Clutch I just ordered, flywheel my local warehouse stocks so I will be getting that next week more than likely.


Thanks guys.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I would buy a NEW OEM throwout bearing. The aftermarket ones that come with the clutch kits are suspect, usually not even stamped with manufacturer info or part numbers.

4b11slayer

Also inpecting the release fork for any bending, and please torque those flywheel bolts and add lock tite

six40

Good point. I suppose the Evo market is similar to the DSMs in that sense. I always put in a new OEM Mitsubishi TOB when I do a clutch job on any DSM.




Yeah I don't screw around with flywheel bolts & pressure plate bolts. Always torqued to spec.


Another question...


I tilted my donor engine a little as I was getting it up on the engine stand, and some oil leaked out of the flywheel bolt threads in the crank (flywheel was off and holes were empty) I'm assuming the hole is straight through? I don't remember having this happen with other engines so I was slightly concerned. If so, is there way to seal this off once the bolts are in and securing the flywheel in place?


Sorry if it's a dumb question.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Those holes don't go through. It's likely oil just somehow got in them at some point while the engine was being shipped.


You don't really have to worry about a bent release fork on the Evo, that's pretty much a DSM problem. The way the Evo fork is designed with the pivot shaft, instead of a pivot ball, the evo fork is much stronger.

six40

You're right. Maybe it was from the rear main seal when I tilted it. I picked up the donor and it's been kept straight aside from when I put it on the stand. Also, I took the flywheel off that it came with and the bolts were dry, so I just asked a dumb question. Had I thought harder I would've answered myself LOL oh well. Long day.