I apologize now if this thread becomes long but I want to be clear and as concise as possible. I want to make 500-550 WHP. Anywhere in this ranges is acceptable. This will be my daily driver. Current mods are as follows:

K&N Typhoon 69-6546TWR Air Intake System
AMS Wide Mouth Downpipe
Team English Racing Boost Activated Test Pipe
3" ETS Intercooler w/ UICP & LICP
Driven Fab Evo X v3 Catch Can/Coolant Expansion Tank
Eibach Springs & Bilstein Struts Pro Kit
AEM Electronic Boost Controller
Exedy HD Twin Disc Clutch & Flywheel

Now I have been reading forums and researching but I feel I lack the knowledge to make the best possible decision to meet my goals. I hear and see a lot of people say just get an FP red, go E85 and I'll meet those goals. When I look around on sites such as MAP Performance and the FP websites I find none.
https://www.maperformance.com/collec...tsubishi-evo-x

The only other thing I have found requires me to send in my turbo to be upgraded. Not only is this not an option I don't understand the process. Either way I am considering to just buy a turbo kit specifically the ETS Mitsubishi Evo X and Evolution X Turbo Kit 2008-2015.
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...20257442365510

Now I start having lots of questions.

1. Which turbo will allow me to reach my power goal safely?
2. Which turbo will allow me to reach my power goal with the best possible spool time?
3. Which turbo will allow me to reach my power goal and be DDable?
4. If I buy this kit will there be extra parts needed to operate it safely?
5. If I do get the kit with the turbo do I get T-3 or V-band?

The additional mods I intend to get are:

BlueFlex ECA Full EVO X Flex Fuel Package
ID 2000cc Injectors
Tial QR BOV
GSC Power-Division Billet Evolution X S1 Camshafts (Maybe?)
Tune

I'm not sure which turbo from the list of turbos offered with the turbo kit best fits what I want to achieve. If a turbo kit is not the best solution is just buying a direct replacement turbo and exhaust manifold separately better given I have a down pipe and UICP already? Any guidance or suggestions is greatly appreciated.


TL: DR - I want to make 500-550 WHP and want to know what turbo would be best suited to meet those goals safely as a DD.

P.S. - I am willing to have slightly less WHP if it means a more fun, safe and reliable drive.

 

For your goals of 500-550whp, the easiest way there would be:

Garrett GTX3076R Gen II turbo
ID1300cc injectors
E85
Aeromotive 340lph drop in fuel pump or Walbro 450 with install kit
Driven Fab innovate flex fuel kit
Tephra V3 Flex Fuel rom + good tune.

 

That sounds similar to the route I'm considering. Will 1300cc provide enough flow?

 

If Bryan aka razorlab tells you there good then you will be fine,I would say he knows a little bit about tuning. Lol
Yeah obviously the Id 2000 will give you room to grow but if you plan at staying at the power level you said then 1300’s are good.

 

Yes, and the id1300’s are excellent injectors.

I’ve used id1000cc,id1300, and id1700 on my personal car and the id1300’s where my favorite

 

lol ok 1300 it is then

 

I made 560whp on mine when I maxed out the ID1300's at 8,400 rpm on E79.

They will be just fine for your goal.

Here is a log with ID1300's at 560whp DJ

https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/rcwots...zoom=1110-1556

 

Thanks for the chart though I don't know how to read it lol. You said you maxed out the injectors. I'm assuming that means max duty cycles. Did this ever cause any problems having them run at such a high rate?

 

I switched to 1700 right after. Running that at max can make them go static which isn't good. Keep in mind they maxed out at 8,400 rpm, which you won't be hitting without a built motor.

 

I think I should be ok then. I don't intend to be running it hard everyday. Just the occasional pull or red light to red light

 

Just to be clear; if your making 500-550whp on the stock block you are decreasing the reliability dramatically. Of course it depends how often and hard you dip into that power, but more stress is more stress.
I know I am stating the obvious, but some guys seem shocked by this fact. It's only four poor little pistons/rods making power after all.
When someone says they want to make that kind of power, and then add "and reliable drive" it seems like a bit of a contradiction.

 

I get what your saying. My understanding is that most of the stress is caused by torque. Yes more power is more stress that is not negotiable but at least IMO if I keep torque relatively low and do all the proper things to safely operate it should be manageable. It's also why I said that I would be ok with a little less power to maintain a reliable drive. Ultimately I want a car I enjoy driving and if that looks more like 485 WHP instead of 525 WHP because its safer and more reliable, as long as I enjoy it, then I'm happy with that.

 

IMO area under the curve is going to be way more relevant to what you want than a peak HP number. Boost threshold and transient response are going to be really consequential to a street car, so don't sacrifice too much in the quest for a number on a screen. My .02

 

I am riding what I believe to be the limit for TRYING to stay reliable and not break anything in the block. The car is an absolute blast to drive because your never waiting for torque.
Notice that torque is controlled but carried as fat and wide as possible for the most area under the curve as Biggiesacks mentioned. Blue = 4th, Red=3rd back to back runs.

 

This sounds exactly like what I want. Do you have a recommended turbo?