No Start Issue
No Start Issue
My brothers buddy has had his Evox in my brothers garage for probably about 14 months or so. He gave up on it.
Was running and driving then he did down pipe, up pipe and gauge pods, Then never got it running again.
He had some Mechanic dude come spend all day messing with it throwing $$ at it last year.
I feel bad he's just letting it sit, So my brother and i are trying to figure this out. ( and my brother probably wants the bay back so we can put 1 of our cars there)
So far I've found, Has spark and Fuel.
Had low compression, 30-60 (I believe the walls were washed from gas, We did try the oil through spark hole trick and it started building compression).
Found oil was FULL of gas, So we emptied it and put fresh oil with new crank sensor. (Also changed Cam Sensors prior) .
I scanned it with my computer (Not a super expensive one or anything)
5 permanent codes (Can't erase them)
1. Mass Air Flow
2. Intake Temp
3. Engine Coolant
4. Throttle Position Circuit A
5. Throttle Position Circuit B
At a lose here, I'm thinking maybe he fried the ECU while installing the Gauge pods i read something online about someone else doing that. But no idea if there;s a way to check ECU and My brother and I don't wanna drop more money into a car that isn't ours, Already about $200 into it.
It doesn't even sound like it wants to start, If i hold gas down it'll sometimes act like its about it start but won't.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Side note he wants to sell it to me (One of my dream cars) but he want's $15,000 for it. Not running.
Was running and driving then he did down pipe, up pipe and gauge pods, Then never got it running again.
He had some Mechanic dude come spend all day messing with it throwing $$ at it last year.
I feel bad he's just letting it sit, So my brother and i are trying to figure this out. ( and my brother probably wants the bay back so we can put 1 of our cars there)
So far I've found, Has spark and Fuel.
Had low compression, 30-60 (I believe the walls were washed from gas, We did try the oil through spark hole trick and it started building compression).
Found oil was FULL of gas, So we emptied it and put fresh oil with new crank sensor. (Also changed Cam Sensors prior) .
I scanned it with my computer (Not a super expensive one or anything)
5 permanent codes (Can't erase them)
1. Mass Air Flow
2. Intake Temp
3. Engine Coolant
4. Throttle Position Circuit A
5. Throttle Position Circuit B
At a lose here, I'm thinking maybe he fried the ECU while installing the Gauge pods i read something online about someone else doing that. But no idea if there;s a way to check ECU and My brother and I don't wanna drop more money into a car that isn't ours, Already about $200 into it.
It doesn't even sound like it wants to start, If i hold gas down it'll sometimes act like its about it start but won't.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Side note he wants to sell it to me (One of my dream cars) but he want's $15,000 for it. Not running.
Did you recheck your compression? You won't get ignition at that kind of low compression.
I don't think the the ECU was fried, you would have U-codes or lack of communication to the PCM entirely.
You should be seeing around 150 psi assuming you have a normal compression ratio, and aren't in the mountains, and it's not a 100 degrees outside.
The increase in compression wet shows worn compression rings. Or it's scratched as all hell on the sidewalls.
I would disregard the permanent codes, unless they are also pending/active DTCs. They may have been set by low voltage, hinted by both TPS circuit codes.
Based on what you said, I think your compression is so low, it can't compress enough air to ignite the mix, and all the fuel is slipping past the rings into the oil. The cylinder wash down only makes the issue worse, as the fuel strips the oil from the cylinder walls.
I don't think the the ECU was fried, you would have U-codes or lack of communication to the PCM entirely.
You should be seeing around 150 psi assuming you have a normal compression ratio, and aren't in the mountains, and it's not a 100 degrees outside.
The increase in compression wet shows worn compression rings. Or it's scratched as all hell on the sidewalls.
I would disregard the permanent codes, unless they are also pending/active DTCs. They may have been set by low voltage, hinted by both TPS circuit codes.
Based on what you said, I think your compression is so low, it can't compress enough air to ignite the mix, and all the fuel is slipping past the rings into the oil. The cylinder wash down only makes the issue worse, as the fuel strips the oil from the cylinder walls.
Yank out that gauge pod and repair the wiring harness before any more electrical troubleshooting. If the trouble started there then that's highly likely related. Unless it is completely stand alone and doesn't tap into a single OEM wire, if thats the case you can leave it alone.
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