What grade studs are those?

 

Obviously they are not ARPs . Not sure as there was no spec sheet, but they appear to be heat resistant and similar to my tractor wheel studs. They came as part of the turbo kit from Kinugawa for the Evo X. Normal installation to torque to 21 lb-ft then, another 70 degrees. I suspect that was to set the gasket and load the washers. What matters is how they respond to heat stress. It still isn't a very high torque level. As I mentioned, I used only 2 of these as the top studs and the original 2 bolts on the most forward points.

 

Yea I would keep an eye on those after heat cycles.

 

They aren't the same wheels, maybe the same size, but certainly not the same aero. The actual MHI 18k makes full boost around 3700rpm, you likely won't see that from this turbo. Gasoline engines also don't typically see a big difference in boost threshold between BB and JB. Sometimes is 100rpm, sometimes its nothing.

That stud looks like something I would not want to use. I highly recommend getting all new OEM hardware. Also, the belleville washers are pretty much one time use if they've seen more than a few heat cycles, so those need to be replaced.

This may not be your first vehicular rodeo, but it is your first evo and it's already starting to go down a not so desirable path with these parts and hardware choices.

 

I was about to post about those studs, so I will just repeat what was mentioned. Those studs looks like garbage, and you would be a fool to use them.
I am probably one of only a handful of loyal Evo guys that has run Kinugawa parts for quite some time, especially for the Evo X.

Here is what I did:

1.) never trusted their actuator - used turbosmart; so I don't have any data on that. If that component fails = overspin = death.

2.) didn't use any of their hardware for oil/coolant or STUDS or bolts. Those studs pictured do not LOOK like the metals used for the MHI OEM hardware. I brought the MHI turbo bolts to a specialist at my job (along with install procedure from MHI) and he was beyond impressed. They don't follow standards in markings so it is a bit of MAGIC as to what MHI exactly made them out of and to what spec. You should use fresh new MHI studs, bolts, and belleville washers with lots of copper high temp anti-seize.

3.) didn't trust or use their turbine housing (MHI turbine housings only). It has been long known that "knock-off" housings do not have the proper metallurgy and will not last severe heat cycles. See if a magnet sticks to the one you have there.

What did I have success with:

STS TD05H turbines
11+0 GTX style 20G compressor wheels
Center bearing housing and guts

Keep in mind that as you move to larger turbines, the criticality of having a perfect cast goes up exponentially. I trusted them for a small TD05H size turbine and that worked out. There was some posts a while back about larger turbines by them exploding. One thing to look for is MASSIVE grinding on the turbine shaft end; indicating unbalanced AIR pockets in the cast.

 

No leaks or rattles on initial test drive. Exhaust has a nice note and is a bit quieter than expected, but I am not complaining. GrimmSpeed3 finally arrived and is in. WGDC is preliminarily set. AFRs are normal; I expected it to be leaner, but idle is 14.7, Accel 11.1 - 12, and cruise 14.7-15.4. Longer test drives have the P0420 code coming on after about 40 minutes on 2 separate days.Anti-fouler is on order. Fuel economy is up 20-25%. MIVEC tables played with today with a slight decrease in fuel economy.

It seems every time I hook up ECUFlash for a simple read or write it it throws a code,

850cc Bosch EV14 injectors go in tomorrow. Tune adjusted only for size, latency, and start-up parameters for now.

 

No need for antifouler, you can change that in the ecu.

The codes with Ecuflash is normal with an MR because the tcu loses connection, nothing to worry about, just clear them after.

 

Hard start and idled like crap after the injectors went in. Doh, still hadn't put the initial injector sizing tune on, so of course, it flooded the engine during the 2nd start attempt. After the tune it still idled rich (<10.0) until I scaled up the injectors by another 8%. (790 for 850 injectors). It still might need a further fuel correction for start-up as it was slow to start cold today (80F).

Right now the idle AFR is 14.7-15.0 and in cruise it is the same with 0 psi. You could watch the ECU make the idle trim corrections on start-up. I was once again surprised by the fuel economy in cruise. With nothing amiss I did a WOT run in 3rd (6,800rpm), 4th (6,500), and 5th (5,000) with max boost peak at 24.5 psi with 18-21psi typical. 11.3 AFR was typical under load, so not too bad for no specific tuning. Logging needs to start. Further airflow upgrades may happen as the tuning progresses, but it pulls fairly strong as it is.

Under the hood it looks pretty stock, except for the GS 3port hiding behind the power block and the boost sensor on the firewall. From the rear, the dual 4" tips are over-kill.

A gauge cluster should arrive next week so I can fab in the boost and AFR gauges, but once the tuning is complete, there really isn't any reason to have the gauges in place, except for the bling factor.







On a side note, the BB turbo spins significantly longer after shutdown than the stock turbo. This turbo is quiet, but slightly more audible than stock.

 

This morning I adjusted the load tables, correction factor, WGDC, and tweaked the MIVEC. The pulls are stronger with boost holding at 26.5 psi with little taper-off. I also added a bit more enrichment for the start and it catches pretty much like stock. I could leave it like this, but I want to see what a modest change to the Octane tables/timing for spool, power, and AFR will do. Standby.

 

Pretty much everything is where I want it, except the start-up/crank fueling.

The bezel arrived yesterday and I modified it for the gauges, I ended up using 2" conduit, but I had to ream out the inside about 1-2mm to accept the gauges. I didn't buy the X gauges as I made a mistake in my order, but there was enough room to install the normal size due to the lower location in the dash.All I had to do was clip the posts to keep them in the 1.5" deep sockets.

 

FYI, I was having warm start issues and I finally ran my first log. My fuel trim were still pretty negative so I kept upping the injector scaling. It looks like I got 1,000cc injectors and not 850s. The fuel trims are finally starting to come down now that I am at 886 for scaling. I still have to run another longer cruise log of LTFT to see if I need to bump it up one more notch, but the warm start issue is resolving itself.

BTW, the OBDII pin 8 was a great place to tap in for the wideband O2 ADC feed for logging.

edit: "886" looks to be the final scaling to get the LTFT Cruise <3. Latency had to be reduced as well to get the LTFT Idle to near zero. Still working on a faster warm start after sitting.

 

Virtual Dyno average of 2 runs (one each in opposite directions) 353hp/368lbft (std dev:1hp/10lbft). 91Oct .Boost 25.2>21.5 Knock 1

The AFRs are much higher than expected at WOT runs compared with what I saw with the stock injectors, and with the initial scaling for what I thought were 850 injectors. So, more fueling can be added throughout the higher TPS range to raise the boost level, lower the onset of boost, and probably extract more power. Whether the waste gate and BOV can hold sustained boost over 25psi past 6,000 RPM is another issue, but with a lower AFR the power should increase.

edit: I lowered AFR target values in the fuel map and it dropped the wide band O2 readings to about 12.5. I still need to smooth out and lower the AFR below 4700rpm. It seems that the ecu is a bit slow interpolating the fuel map cells.
414wHP at 6440rpm, 385wT at 4377rpm. Virtual Dyno.
Knock was max 1 at 6000-6600rpm. Max Boost was 1-2psi lower on these last 2 runs.

 

AFR at WOT in boost should be 10.8-11.0 on 91 octane pump gas.

 

That thing is a grenade about to go off with 12.5 AFR on 91 octane. I would hate to hear how much leaner you where running it before you richened it up.

Are you looking for advice and feedback on your tuning or are you just posting updates?

 

I am unsure how you could have a knock of 1 with a 12.5 AFR on 91. As mentioned by the gents above, that is insanely lean. When I was starting tuning I based my tune off of a COBB OTS map, and it took a while before I realized they deafened the knock sensor. They did this probably to stop calls/emails from people throwing a OTS map on a modded up EVO with XYZ parts and having the check engine (knock light) flash in their face.