mitsubishimanny

1. You turn on the car after it's been driven or is already warm, it begins to stutter and sometimes shuts off during idle.

2. After the break in period. You rev up to 6k rpm or so and it begins to stutter.
(the dynos out so far confirm that the system is running rich. was this intentional from the factory or what? What are the dynos showing on overseas evo x's? It's troubling that none of the car publications that tested the x make no mention of these issues. Most likely I'm the only one with these issues, but who knows.)

I feel like a new vehicle should not be having these issues. Anyone else having these symptoms with thier x?

Noize

iTrader: (24)

I have neither of those with almost 3500 miles on my car.

blk-majik

iTrader: (6)

mitsu made them run rich because its safer. a rich afr will produce less heat (and less power). most production cars ship running a bit on the rich side, so i don't see is as much of an issue. just common practice.

i'd suggest taking it into the dealer for a look over

StevenStarke

iTrader: (77)

i broke my car in extremely hard and have none of those problems

DrasticK

iTrader: (2)

Exactly what im doing. I only have 100 KM's on it but those 100 KM's have not been a smooth ride. I'll be doing the same long after the 600 mile break in period. Of course im not keeping the revs in any one place for too long, that would just be bad

Shahul X

iTrader: (3)

there was a bulletin on the regular lancers that did this, something with the throttle bodies

BOOSTEZ

iTrader: (1)

This is misinformation.

There is a such thing as rich from the factor and then there is a such thing as crappy rich. The X has a crappy factory tune. Period. The AFRs should not be anywhere near the the 9s. Most production cars run in the mid to upper 10s.

thuan

iTrader: (1)

You're not alone Bud, read this https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=324215


Shahul X You work at a Dealership, Any News on when the Reflash will be ready?

Talon_66

iTrader: (6)

I do

mksevo

Crappy tune to you , means more power gains for me when you tune the stock motor. so I like the Rich AFRs of 9s to start with.

BOOSTEZ

iTrader: (1)

That's fine. I was only stating facts.

iBOOST

iTrader: (1)

Check ur little things like wiring, nipples, spark plugs and all that garbage

STi2EvoX

Boostez is right, the car does have an overly conservative tune from the factory, bordering on just plain bad tuning. Mitsu went overboard with trying to keep the egt's down to make the cat work better for cleaner emissions, and to prevent detonation on 91 octane fuel. However, this went too far and actually makes the car run poorly, which no car in stock trim should do. However, mksevo has a very good point in that it makes it all the easier to make huge power gains with basic bolt ons and a tune, which for most guys is where the mods will stop. I actually see it as a positve in that respect, but I still think that the car should run a tad leaner from the factory. A simple drop in filter seems to lean it out to "normal" factory richness, considering how rich factory cars run, and makes a huge chunk of power at the same time. The works drop in filter netted almost as much power as removing the filter altogether, which was about 18-20 peak increase with a whopping 40 hp at redline, due to leaning out the richest part of the powerband and improving boost taper by about 2 psi. Easy, cheap, efficient, and very worthwhile fix for this problem. And, it won't void the warranty.

evo_Eks

I have the same 6k revs studder but never had my car stall @ idle

delkat

iTrader: (2)

Mine is still stalling occasionally after re-starting hot per the link referenced above.