GPTourer

Weird, so does mine. I'm glad it isn't black, though. Mitsu did a very poor job with black cars coming out of the DSM plant. My GS-T's paint looks better then my wife's 08 G35 paint.

Leon.D

I had a black civic si, and anytime i drive more than 30 min on the highway, there is always a chip or two on the paint, after 30k miles, most of my front end had white paint chip spots. I think for any car, some kind of paint protector on the front end is a must.

ikt

iTrader: (18)

uh...you burned through the paint dude, that's not the paint's fault, that's your fault.

I paint lots of X parts, and the OEM paint is thin, yes, but no thinner that Lexus uses. You aren't the first guy (myself included) to burn through the basecoat with a buffer

Just paint the whole thing. I can send you a spray can of OEM paint if you want to do it yourself, and can even have it made single stage w/clear so you can just shoot it and be done

ikt

iTrader: (18)

people always burn their paint first time with a rotary. Was probably rotary, wool pad, and compound. Woooosh goodbye paint! Would have happened to any paint job. Rotary's are tricky, I try to keep mine under 1500rpm most of the time.

ikt

iTrader: (18)

It has quality paint on it already. MY cost for a pint of OEM equivalent paint is ~$50 and that's without reducer or clear. So that's roughly $500-600 a gallon in paint. Not cheap!

If you are worried about the paint surface...you're actually all referring to the clearcoat, not the paint. It goes primer---basecoat---clear. Chips that are white are in the clear coat, not the colorcoat. Chips that show bare metal are in the color coat. 99% of your chips and scratches are in the clearcoat, which is MUCH thicker than the base coat.

If you want to redo it so it's thicker (I did it to mine, but I do bodywork so it only costs me time), what you really want is to add another layer of clear coat. you don't want to tangle with matching basecoat colors. You can just sand down the panel with 320-500-600 , scuff it, then shoot clear over that. In fact, you could redo an entire care with a matte finish clear that way, too. Except it would cost you a grand in materials alone and take about 30 hours to do right

GPTourer

Honda red and black is just as bad from those years.

You guys have talked me out of trying to buff my car myself with a rotary. Just gonna have to stick to the Karate Kid method or use a dual action buffer.

BlazinVIII

ahhhh alright, so most of the problem is the thin clearcoat then? in that case, i guess i'll just have more clearcoat put on if that's the solution. i just want it to be like my Audi - which has practically no scratches/chips on the original paint after 130,000 miles

SD_Lurker

that's what you should be using. The days of a rotary are gone. The only advantage it has is to save time but you gotta know the machine well in order not to cause damage. Go get yourself a flex or rupe those thnigs are the ish. I have a griots garage unit and it works great.

lancerus

iTrader: (11)

Are you Guys with rally red evos having other problems with the paint? I've been thinking about getting one but i keep reading paint sucks(of course that will not keep me out from buying one) but just wondering because red can fade out and a few other issues. Im between RR or WW.

jt8217

WW looks the best IMO. I haven't had any paint issues

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

56k miles on my 2010 and the WW paint still looks fine. Nothing out of the ordinary, just the typical small rock chips that any vehicle would get. I do what I can to protect the car from sun and the elements: wash, wax, park indoors, etc.

Kendogg

I met up with an Evo owner the other day. He had a 08 RR. His didn't look faded or anything out of the ordinary.

01CBR929

iTrader: (8)

Bad paint... yes.