For reliability, safety, & maximum power you should always get a tune after relevant performance modifications to your vehicle. Our intake system & intercooler piping system was designed for use on the stock ecu, & cobb stage 1/2 maps. Our Intake & Intercooler Piping system was developed before tuning was available for the EVO X & research was done at our in house Mustang Dyno. If your vehicle WAS TUNED PRIOR to adding new parts (or our parts), a RE-TUNE IS A MUST. This is common knowledge.

**NOTE** The code you are receiving has no relevance to your aftermarket parts, since the description is related to timing control issues. Intake systems & intercooler piping will no affect timing or create this code, at most it wold be the air to fuel ratio. If your issues continue please call us during normal business so we can assist you &/or refer you to a tuner. We would be more than happy to help you with your issue.

-Harman Motive

 

Of course a tune is a must for any vehicle after any upgrade. That wasnt the question. The question was could it be my clutch, or is it due to the fact that I DID NOT TUNE MY CAR AFTER THE UPGRADES? It never had anything to do w/ your parts. I have sent Judey emails praising your product so in no way is this a problem w/ Harman Motive. I am very happy w/ the products...hence the reason I came back and purchased the UICP the day it was released.

Please note on the previous page that the problem is the clutch ONLY. As one member posted before, the reason for the code is most likely from the slipping clutch or the fact that I FAILED TO TUNE THE VEHICLE AFTER THE UPGRADES

 

Well man, sorry I was right cause I know thats not a cheap fix

Anyway, at least you know what it is now. Yeah, the X's are strange with the way they code, As I mentioned I really think it is canbus related.

 

Can somebody explain better exactly how the hell a slipping clutch will throw that code. I got that same code as well and i also have a slipping clutch which I am replacing tomorrow. I was planning on having to go back to Mitsu next week after I get the new clutch in to have them look into the timing retard code.

 

plan:
good luck on the clutch if you are doing it... there are a few tricks that you need to know in order to make it happen

harman:
"Intake systems & intercooler piping will no affect timing or create this code, at most it wold be the air to fuel ratio."
not saying its it your parts, but wouldnt that be a contradictory statement based off the ops description? if he was tuned to say a 12:1 and then added piping (dont know the products in question and again, am not saying its your products, just changing air flow in general) specially with a bigger inlet pipe, wouldnt that lean the car out further, killing the afr and in turn affect timing? again, not saying your products are whats in question, it would be based off the ops path of modification.

 

Ya I did some research before hand. I have the trans ready to drop and everything went smooth until now...I am stuck on this f***ing wedge collar! I have been patient with it for the last hour and it will not break loose off of the TOB. Moved the fork to position A and used the flathead GENTLY, but it wont disconnect. Taking a smoke break to calm down

On a side note....getting this far hasn't been that bad. I do see why its tough if you don't have an array of equipment though.

 

GOT IT!!!

I started at 6 this morning so it took me 6 hours to get it out. Im tired

We will see how long it takes to get it back together haha



On the wall in the shop haha

 

Just letting everyone know...the clutch change went great...took me about 16 hours but I feel I can easily shave some time off that number. I took my time bagging and labeling bolts for an easier re-assembly. I would advise ANY first timer to do the same. Like I said before, I have changed many clutches on many different vehicles. This one was a challenge haha.

Thanks to everyone for your help!

-Mike

 

Looks like some sort of relic from the Mayans.