I believe you and I met at Sonic a month or so back and we were chatting about the exhausts and stuff. You werent looking at overly modifying the evo then but if you are him, looks like you got the bug to do it big!

BTW... guys.. give him a break on his english, not everyone in a highly international forum speaks the same language or types it the same.

As for weight savings...
Some people have suggested changing the roof to carbon fiber. You wont lose enough weight to make the cost worth it (unless you are making a pro car and have tons of money to throw at it)

Carbon fiber doors can be had for somewhat cheap if you go Seibon. You can fit some lexan windows in them and be good. Or you can go with Voltex (or varis, cant remember which company) which provides a full race replacement with non functional windows.

Wiring harness wont really save you all that much weight. Most of the wires you would remove are all harness based so if you yanked it all out and re-ran the needed wires it would work... otherwise just cutting out the bits you dont need would be a HUGE pain in the ***.

Hood you can swap to CF and lose a couple pounds for a decent price, same with trunk (replacing the stock wings with a voltex wing or something like that to give you the aerodynamic assistance as well as weight savings)

Wheels, brakes, suspension.... this is where the bread and butter of your setup will be. It will get spendy, but items like Stoptech brake systems and really nice coilovers coupled with lightweight wheels with sticky rubber will get you through it all better than any other upgrade.

Engine... depends on the track. Autocross will justify a different build than a road course can.

Stripping out the interior including the dash isnt bad if you intend to get a race display system and have it not be all that pretty. I good cage and replacing the stock seats with some non-adjustable lightweight ones will do great for weight as well.

As for exhaust... get a full system, not just a catback. The full system will help with your turbo response whereas the catback will just help with sound and looks with a very small addition of power.

Good luck with the build!

The X is a pretty heavy platform to start with however i am sure once you start pulling things off you will find alot of weight reduction can be yours best of luck with the project

Front and rear crash beams (like 50lbs total)
what about the charcoal canister? will it throw any codes?? anyone removed this before

thank you this is a nice answer.
seat time I fully agree knowing your car and what it can do is important beeing a good driver is even more important and will make you quicker than any mods you can imagine.
As far as classes I do not really like SCCA so I went to see NASA they are much nicer but this is just my opinion and it also depend where you live. I am not the only one thinking like this and when you that a NASA event as over 200 cars and an SCCA jsut over 100 that tell you something.
There is no wheel to wheel racing with an Evo in Colorado but only Time trial.
As there are only two Evo I will just go against the clock.
As far as Why I want to do this. I like driving this carit's fun. very different from a corvette. the car is two years old and I never used the radio. same for all the interior I don't give a sh..t on how the car look like inside. This is not a corvette nor a BMW jsut an Evo.
I just removed everything that I could and that was 400lbs off. I drove the car and this was another car. Completely different car. Removing the 400 lbs was like adding 50 to 60Hp, but that just for acceleration.
As I only use this car to go on track or to drift I can either put back everything and sale it or move along with my project to have avery fun car to drive.
FYI I did the same with my C5 corvette that I bought new in 2001 and 9 years after I have a very fun car to drive on a track that is way faster than a stock C6 Z06. And yes I cannot compete in T1 as I do not qualify but I don't care everytime I bring it on the track I have a lot of fun.

yes it is me

On this one, they are right, I need to make some effort to read myself again before posting. I did it for this one and corrected a lot of broken english

I am not going to do this. even the doors. AMS weight the stock door versus the carbon fiber one. But the real saving is the inside panel, the speakers, the window and the mecanisism.

you won't believe how much wire this car contains. It is not the weigh saving I more concern about short circuit.
also it will be more for the look. the wire everywhere will look like an unfinished race car.
stop by once and you will see (you do not live very far)

I don't think the hood is very heavy, the trunk I agree this is heavy.
as far as the wing it will be on my list but I will not spend $1500 in a rear wing. I may be wrong but I feel this should be way cheaper than that.

Yes I will spend money there.
I will go with the sway bar first.
I want 2 piece rotor as light parts in rotation are very important.
This car needs cooling system for the brake. it is the only problem on this car but it's a real one.
as far as coil over I don't know? I may but not sure yet.
Camber yes I want to be able to add some camber.
wheel are already done. I have 18x10" wide and only 18lbs.


I don't want to go crazy. so far I am thinking of a full exhaust including the dowpipe to have the turbo spooling quicker. I hate the turbo lag of this car.
Intake pipe while I am still not convinced it is aboslutely necessary I will do it.
and a tune. If I can get 300RWHP this won't be that bad.

I will install a cage as IMO it is mandatory as soon as you install bucket seast with 6 points harness.

I agree but since we talked I move to the idea of single and not the dual.

other thought I have made since.
I also want to do ice racing so I need to keep the ventialtion for defrosting the windshield

first and for most , the Evo is AWD so you will get 300 AWD power LOL

"If I can get 300RWHP this won't be that bad."

you will get much more with only bolt ons and stock tubo, so no worries there.


the lexan is not really a weight help. just take out the supporting brakets.
We weighted the windows and there is no real gain there specially if you think a price...
If you remove the hardware you will be just as light with you would with the lexan.
Only Lexan its worth to do, is a rear window.

removing the wires, and do a custom wiring is a BIG Huge job. Also you need two stand alone. One Engine ECU and one ACD.
At this stage i wouldnt worry about it , specially if you want to stay under 400whp. No need for those.

leave or get a better under panel under the engine. you need cooling and protection . The under panel Must stay.

Check the cage specs for you needs and build the cage with a RESPECTABLE and WELL KNOWN builder. You dont want to fail in inspection neither redo it...


get a good coilovers and set it up with some pro guys. You DONT need a sway bar yet. Just fell out the car with the new suspension set up /i prefer AST for track for sure /
The suspension set up is much much more important in our case then power.
But we getting into the set up deal , which are personal and different places needs different set ups. So you have to work out that one.

The dash board has a very heavy dash board bar , you can change that with the cage for something much lighter.


thats all for now.

Rob

i would do the basics

its amazing the things you upgrade and the weights you save

basics

braile racing battery 15-20 lbs
coilover suspension i saved 25 lbs there
remove spare tire and jack 20-30 lbs
TBE around 30-40 lbs there plus power gains
CAI "you have to do it anyways"
remove rear subwoofer "with sss package" 15lbs maybe ?


the rear seats are so minmum really not worth the hassel

as some one said 2 piece rotors maybe 5 lbs a wheel "huge improvements" 20lbs diffrence

carbon fiber hoods and trunks are a waste of time and money also for our cars, unless you want the ricer look

those basic things could shave off around 150 lbs

and put your fat *** on a diet !! LOL


the price you pay for carbon fiber hoods and trunks, you can just upgrade the turbo or engine items instead

to get our cars around 3,300 lbs for a 4 door AWD car is pretty reasonable and still look factory,

i hate whene every one rips there cars apart to save 2 lbs !! i have seen older evo guys remove bumper beams and even sway bars to save weight !!

sorry I came for RWD world using the RWHP I need to get use to AWHP

I am not looking for a lot of HP but more for torque and a curve with HP on a wide spread rpm band not a huge number only from 5500 to 6500.
I also want reliability as pulling hard for 20mn is different that pulling 10''


I start to agree with you the window are not that heavy but the motor and the mecanism are. Also for the front window I need to be able to drop them . how?
As far as the rear window how much do you think is the weigh saving from glass to lexan?


The problem on this is not the weight saving but more that there is wires everywhere

what do you mean by this? is the under panel helping for cooling? or just because of air flowing better with the panel under the car

good point there thanks


I am really surprise about your remark here. On all the car I mods the sway bar was a huge improvement more than the schocks. The good thing about coil over is easy adjustement. On my vette I put T1 spring bilstein and T1 sway bar. the car turn 100% flat and a huge grip. But I have no adjustement to play with. Is it that bad?
Is the Evo really special as normaly you can stay with softer adjustement which help on grip as a stiff sway bar take care on the balance from side to side and helping both spring to work together. I know the sway bar are not that important at lower speed but for cornering at high speed they are very important.
Again this is my first AWD car and don't know them much so it could be different from what I experienced before

I need to go through this.. But so far it scares me.
I need to keep the heater to defrost the wind shield


Thanks you.
This is a lot of help. I was very frustrated at the beginning with the kind of answer I received. It has been much better recentley with real nice person and helpfull comments.
I am starting to find the help I received from the corvette community when I started to mods the car.

BTW guys what are you using to remove the sound absorber we got everywhere.(tar)
Paint thinner?

I hear ya there. I re-did my stereo a little while back and was just blown away by the amount of wires everywhere. But also with it being the canbus, everything electronic talks in this car so that makes sense to have so many wires. Like robevo said, unless you plan on really going with standalone computers, its hard to make sure you take out only what wires you need without blowing the rest up.


Well the hood I have coming is 7lbs or less which is a few lbs savings over stock. Thankfully the aluminum body panels we have are fairly light. THe trunk for sure can lose some weight, but the wing on the back (SSS) is VERY heavy and not all as functional as the aftermarket ones for downforce (which is what I was getting at).



If you want to go without a name brand exhaust, Tommy from a local shop fabs up great stuff and can do whatever you want with it. Turbo lag isnt really gonna get too much better but some mivec tuning can help as well as if you swap out to E85.

This is all done or what is not done is planned for.


I have to disagree here. with bolts and bracket this is 40lbs and it takes no time to remove it.

agree on both

I already removed 300lbs (I mentioned 400 before but when I logged it under an excell spread sheet we found 289 lbs)


cannot save more than 10 lbs here

the price you pay for carbon fiber hoods and trunks, you can just upgrade the turbo or engine items instead

Sorry here but a Camaro race ready is 3000lbs and for me it is an heavy car.


sorry here again but I will remove evrything that does not have a function for road racing. This include turning signal, beam, fog light, etc..
I hope I can get to the 2700 lbs
For me it is more important to remove weight than to add HP
Weight removal will help me more than HP on cornering and braking

Both actually. I believe it has some vents to help suck air out of the engine compartment as well as ensure the aerodynamics are in place for better performance. There are some aftermarket companies that make replacement underpanels but you can still make them yourself if you have the ability.


Our cars actually handle quite well with the ACD/AYC and we naturally have oversteer. A better set of coilovers will balance you out and once you get the spring rates and everything set up, you can start tweaking more with the sway bars. There are some adjustable ones out there, but starting with a good base of coilovers and frame reinforcements will give you a better foundation to start from.



This bar is HUGE and I agree. If you begin stripping out the dash, the bar that has to be there for stock crash protection can/should be removed and replaced with the solution you are getting for the cage. You can still mount your heater vents to the cage as well as other locations to ensure you have good defrost capabilities.

Wrong wrong wrong. Take a look at the actual weights before you spout off things like that. Sure Seibon hoods dont give you a huge weight savings, but the stock hood is 19.5lbs and the Cwest GT hood (on its way to me) only weighs 7 lbs. Plus it has some improved cooling capabilities. Many professional evo race teams swap out the hoods for a different design for many reasons, one being weight. The second is that some teams will actually fab up a new cooling vent that connects to the center intake scoop and directs air directly to the top of the turbo, thus lowering temps greately.
Same goes for trunks and wings. The weight loss will change the center of gravity and effect how the car handles. Active wings as well as static wings all provide a greater amount of downforce and flexibility in such for road racing where the stock does not. For drag, getting rid of the wing and having a duckbill or vortex gen will help.

Not everyone gets carbon fiber to be riced out. Some people like the look of exposed CF, while I personally plan on painting over it.

This could be said about anything really. Its always a tradeoff. The end result and goal you are going for is going to dictate what you upgrade. THrowing money at a turbo is a waste unless its going to be put to use and is in its efficiency range while operating on the track.

I know and agree there, I am concerned by the time and money involved but really think a stand alone computer is the way to go.

I am very interested to see it




the car is already a gas guzzler 20mn cession at pueblo and I ran out of gas
I heard with E85 you will use 20% more fuel. This is what concern me.
how many pipe need to be change to run E85

I would give my right kidney for a standalone system tuned correctly

It will probably be here sometime in July. Ill be sure to be out at sonic with it.





Well, WOT is always gonna guzzle gas down. E85 does use more fuel than running pump gas, but you get more power from it as well (and its cheaper) so it ends up being the same cost, but with more power. You just have to be careful to know where stations are or have backup fuel canisters with you at the track for in between sessions. The things you need to upgrade are some bigger injectors, new fuel filter (ours is paper and it goes bye bye) and possibly a new fuel pump. Of course you also need to get tuned... but thats a given.