Roll cage for Evo X ?
do yourself a favor and do it right...
http://jalopnik.com/5390934/mustang-...over-tire-wall
if you look at the bottom of the car you can see where the roll cage poked throught the floor board of the car. It really needs to be welded in or its just a showcase item to give the appearance of a race car. Function > Form
http://jalopnik.com/5390934/mustang-...over-tire-wall
if you look at the bottom of the car you can see where the roll cage poked throught the floor board of the car. It really needs to be welded in or its just a showcase item to give the appearance of a race car. Function > Formyou've made a very good case for the weld-in. thx for posting
Slight teaser of my setup.... sorry for the crappy iphone pic i will have more pics up tomorrow. I plan on upgrading for a custom welded cage later on. I was between this or a sparco harness bar and for the same price you cant beat a roll bar.
Rollbar: Autopower
Harness: Takata 5 point
Powder coat: Tirado custom coatings custom magnesium blue finish
Install : JMS Racing
Foam is coming of, the shop left it in there to protect the paint while putting it on.



Rollbar: Autopower
Harness: Takata 5 point
Powder coat: Tirado custom coatings custom magnesium blue finish
Install : JMS Racing
Foam is coming of, the shop left it in there to protect the paint while putting it on.



Last edited by pcasso87; Dec 18, 2010 at 07:45 AM.
A full 8 - 10 point welded in cage is going to be safer then a simple bolt in cage. Despite that, because I'm sure you will never crash...
I've been looking for a full cage as well and after talking to a number of other racers, have determined that, if you are going to tear into your car to install a cage you want to be doing it only once and you need to do it right. A cage will affect your ultimate resale and thus, a limited use, simple bolt in cage will limit the number of viable buyers for the car. (the guy looking to really race the car will need to pull it out and start over).
So it is a question of safety, looks, resale, compliance with racing rules. All point to a full welded in cage, the only offset is cost.
I've been looking for a full cage as well and after talking to a number of other racers, have determined that, if you are going to tear into your car to install a cage you want to be doing it only once and you need to do it right. A cage will affect your ultimate resale and thus, a limited use, simple bolt in cage will limit the number of viable buyers for the car. (the guy looking to really race the car will need to pull it out and start over).
So it is a question of safety, looks, resale, compliance with racing rules. All point to a full welded in cage, the only offset is cost.
On the other side of resale. I think I'd like a bolt in cage so that you can take it out in order to actually 'get' some sort of resale. The market is WAY smaller for caged cars than it is for non, IMO.
Obviously many factors determine resale and this of course considering that the car is not abused. (you don't need to abuse a car to race it)
I'd rather sell the car returned to as much factory as I can than take it in the bum, cause you can do nothing with it but race it if there is a cage welded in. I'm not prepared to dedicate my DD for committed life of racing just yet. So I think I still want a bolt in. I can handle the 'cost' difference if I decide this car is going that path later and do the weld in.
Anyone have a pic or two of the mount locations for that Autopower set up?
just qurious on how much carpet needs cutting ect.
Thanks!
Obviously many factors determine resale and this of course considering that the car is not abused. (you don't need to abuse a car to race it)
I'd rather sell the car returned to as much factory as I can than take it in the bum, cause you can do nothing with it but race it if there is a cage welded in. I'm not prepared to dedicate my DD for committed life of racing just yet. So I think I still want a bolt in. I can handle the 'cost' difference if I decide this car is going that path later and do the weld in.
Anyone have a pic or two of the mount locations for that Autopower set up?
just qurious on how much carpet needs cutting ect.
Thanks!
A full 8 - 10 point welded in cage is going to be safer then a simple bolt in cage. Despite that, because I'm sure you will never crash...
I've been looking for a full cage as well and after talking to a number of other racers, have determined that, if you are going to tear into your car to install a cage you want to be doing it only once and you need to do it right. A cage will affect your ultimate resale and thus, a limited use, simple bolt in cage will limit the number of viable buyers for the car. (the guy looking to really race the car will need to pull it out and start over).
So it is a question of safety, looks, resale, compliance with racing rules. All point to a full welded in cage, the only offset is cost.
I've been looking for a full cage as well and after talking to a number of other racers, have determined that, if you are going to tear into your car to install a cage you want to be doing it only once and you need to do it right. A cage will affect your ultimate resale and thus, a limited use, simple bolt in cage will limit the number of viable buyers for the car. (the guy looking to really race the car will need to pull it out and start over).
So it is a question of safety, looks, resale, compliance with racing rules. All point to a full welded in cage, the only offset is cost.
. You could also contact billy @ vivid racing tell him polo sent you he will hook you up.
A bolt in cage saved my father's life. The material the cage was made out of broke before the bolts and mounting plates did. I have an end of the cage in my garage with the bracket attached, the other end broken right off.
[QUOTE]Anyone have a pic or two of the mount locations for that Autopower set up?
just qurious on how much carpet needs cutting ect.[QUOTE]
I just drilled through the carpet and and left the carpet under the bar. If not you would probably just need to make an X big enough to the bar through and bolt it in. Ill try and get a pick of the plate tomorrow.
All you have to do is call autopower and they will help you out, they just haven't updated their site yet.
just qurious on how much carpet needs cutting ect.[QUOTE]
I just drilled through the carpet and and left the carpet under the bar. If not you would probably just need to make an X big enough to the bar through and bolt it in. Ill try and get a pick of the plate tomorrow.
All you have to do is call autopower and they will help you out, they just haven't updated their site yet.
Last edited by JoeA; Dec 19, 2010 at 06:59 PM.
first of all, if im right eventually you wanna do stage rally. So better if you get one of those, you dont want to run rally with road race cage... Actually you even cant do that 
So the proper rally cage will not allow any passenger besides the co-driver LOL
here is why:



and here is my ex EVo IX RS road race certified /you can see the label and whole in one of the pictures on the passenger side/ BOLT in cage , even the lighter cage wont allow rear passenger. That is a miss believe the bolt in cage is not good, as long as is certified- installed properly/ but this is true in ALL type of cages/
Even in WRC Rally bolt in cage is good.... Here is the rules for 2011 and from page 12 you can see the requirements for BOLT in cage...
http://argent.fia.com/web/fia-public.nsf/4A54AAAF4F7AAD3BC1257798004E884E/$FILE/253%20(10-11)-080910.pdf
So you can have bolt in cage. But shops dont like it since its less money for them LOL
Also in here you get the idea the differences between rally an other cages. Rally cages are the most powerful and also the heaviest ones, for obvious reasons. I hope this will help a bit






So the proper rally cage will not allow any passenger besides the co-driver LOL
here is why:



and here is my ex EVo IX RS road race certified /you can see the label and whole in one of the pictures on the passenger side/ BOLT in cage , even the lighter cage wont allow rear passenger. That is a miss believe the bolt in cage is not good, as long as is certified- installed properly/ but this is true in ALL type of cages/
Even in WRC Rally bolt in cage is good.... Here is the rules for 2011 and from page 12 you can see the requirements for BOLT in cage...
http://argent.fia.com/web/fia-public.nsf/4A54AAAF4F7AAD3BC1257798004E884E/$FILE/253%20(10-11)-080910.pdf
So you can have bolt in cage. But shops dont like it since its less money for them LOL
Also in here you get the idea the differences between rally an other cages. Rally cages are the most powerful and also the heaviest ones, for obvious reasons. I hope this will help a bit






Last edited by Robevo RS; Dec 19, 2010 at 06:46 AM.
Thanks for posting the great info and pictures Robevo RS. Your right I do want to 'eventually' run stage rally again, though I'm not confident that this will be the particular car I will actually use. However as mentioned before it does and will get used for many other not as extreme type driving. So... a bolt in cage will suffice for now and should I want to run stage with it, a weld in cage is not going to be a cost breaking decision on cost given the actual expense of committing to Stage Rally events, I'm sure your aware of that tho!
Cheers
Your bolt in looks great too!
Cheers
Your bolt in looks great too!
You haven't been reading, have you? Is the expectation that you'll be going much slower than the racers that are required to have a full cage? If so, you should be fine, otherwise you might want to think about this more, unless you promise and super duper swear that you will never crash.
You haven't been reading, have you? Is the expectation that you'll be going much slower than the racers that are required to have a full cage? If so, you should be fine, otherwise you might want to think about this more, unless you promise and super duper swear that you will never crash.
I know it says to call them but for some reason I cant find their site? I dont want a full cage, maybe like a 6 point shown on the first page,, after seeing the crash @ my local track it kinda scared me, bc it could happen to anyone,, my X is not 100% ready but will be making 450whp, then after this season it will be getting a full build so 600whp with the FP Black and race set up, and with that ya Ill prob be a bit scared as im a very aggressive driver LOL
II realized that, after reading my post, I was both pretentious and shortsighted. Not enough coffee at that hour I suspect. Anyway, the truth is, any cage activity is better than none and the more Xs with them, at any level, the better.
I'll offer this, humbly, and with none of the self righteous snobbery of my above post. Any cage project is big, bigger than expected - more costly and time consuming. You are, I promise, only going to want to do this once. I suppose you could do a bolt in roll bar and then a weld in cage later when you fully convert to a race car, that might be doable, but still a giant PIA. Here's my link, for reference.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...age-evo-x.html
So, my only suggesstion is to decide where you ultimately want to be, cage wise, and do that, once.
I'll offer this, humbly, and with none of the self righteous snobbery of my above post. Any cage project is big, bigger than expected - more costly and time consuming. You are, I promise, only going to want to do this once. I suppose you could do a bolt in roll bar and then a weld in cage later when you fully convert to a race car, that might be doable, but still a giant PIA. Here's my link, for reference.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...age-evo-x.html
So, my only suggesstion is to decide where you ultimately want to be, cage wise, and do that, once.






