More clutches do not a better transmission make. The Evo SST has trouble at high torque levels - the Enzo's holding 650+ HP and 485+ TQ.

Outside of the Enzo, I still ask you to show me a DCT-equipped supercar released prior to the GT-R. Lamborghini eGear/Audi R-Tronic (Murcielago, Gallardo, R8), BMW SMG/SMGII (M3, M5), Ferrari F1 (360, 430, etc)...all single clutch.

I'm not looking to start another DCT pissing match - I own a 2010 SE - but if we're going to hold a car up as an example, let's make sure it's apples-to-apples.

 

what's the point. if there's an example of a twin clutch supercar or not.
are you just speaking of holding lots of HP. is that the point. if it is, it ain't a "point" for most and definitely not me as 300hp is just fine.
if we're just gonna start ragging on the Evo then you win cuz I'm not gonna have a nerdy debate about HP and heating up or one vs two clutch trannies.
what ever the point you win.

 

Maybe he is Mr. Sheen and can't lose. So I guess he wins. lol



Anyways, the MR tranny is different, regardlesss all of the trannys regardless it be in GSR, MR, Enzo, etc are all great.

 

I think the OP wanted some suggestions on a mod list in priority...

Drive the car for at the very least a month or 2 (hopefully enough to understand it's performance parameters within your driving capabilities). Then decide on what you feel it needs. It'll likely fall into 2 buckets: power or handling.

IMHO, since the car is a DD, the handling will be more than good enough unless your 7 mile commute is from the bottom of Palomar's tight side to the observatory on top. So my guess is that you'll want power cuz you can use it more often. (If it's handling, PM me the route please ) At that time, call RRE and get a tune. You won't need any gauges or controllers, just a tune from RRE and you're set for quite a while. Living in SoCal, I'd avoid mods that would get you tickets or have you fail a smog test.

Most would say that half the fun of Evo ownership is modding it and I agree to some extent as I'm itching to mod mine some more. But then, I've owned my car for 3 years now and even though it's mostly stock, it still puts a grin that splits my face in half every time I drive it.

So while my response isn't a bullet list of what to do, I hope it affords you a perspective that maybe you should first flog your ride around a bit so you can understand your car and more importantly, your wants before you start modding it. Know what I mean?

 

ecu boost control is the way to go, EVO X came with the so called "jdm map sesnor" so just get 3 port solenoid

 

good info in this post. I may hit you up in a few weeks for some guidance.

charlie sheen....rotfl...

 

I don't own an Evo yet either. I'm looking to buy in the same time-frame as you and I'm doing a lot of the same research. I'll share my notes.

• Skip all manual and electronic boost controllers. The EVO ecu will do a better job for less money with a 3-port boost control solenoid and a tune.
• Skip getting a downpipe as well. The factory piece is well-designed. Your fuel system and turbo will limit your power gains long before you need a new dp.
• If you decide to get a GSR, the shifter leaves something to be desired. Test drive one. The solution to this comes in the form of a couple sets of bushings, a fluid change, and a short shifter. This will set you back about $300.
• Don't install an aftermarket BOV. You won't need it. If you install an intake, you'll have all the spool and bypass noise you could possibly want. You'll have to remove the factory intake to install some of the shifter bushings mentioned above, so why not? Intakes seem to come in between $200-$350.
• Get a cat back exhaust. There are lots of choices and none of them are bad. Decide on if you can't stand the way dual or single looks. After making those exclusions, shop on sound, loudness, ground clearance, and price.
• Test pipe is a personal choice. Some people can't deal with the smell. Some people can't live without the sound. Think about it and make your decision.
• You're probably going to hate the stock ride height. You can get a great set of springs for under $400 that will fix this and make the tail of the car slightly more responsive should you choose to auto-x or track your car.
• You'll get some power, maybe a smidge of spool noise, and a fair amount of bling by switching out your intercooler and UICP.
• Once you've finished with the power mods, get a tune. The factory fuel system is going to *limit* you to under 350hp, especially on west coast 91 octane. I put that inside of asterisks, because you're talking about over 400 crank horsepower in a daily driven car. That's about the same as you'd get in a Ferrari 360, and more than enough to get you smiling on the way to work.

 

Please explain?

To the OP, if you're going to go the spring route for looks, invest in a Whiteline Roll Center Adjustment Kit so you don't completely **** up the car's handling.

 

I don't own an EVO. Based on feedback from people on this forum using Pro-kit, s-tech, gtworx, and Cobb springs. OP and I might learn something if you have some criticisms against changing the stock suspension with lowery springs only.

 

**** it. He wants to win, he can win. Arguing on the internet being like the Special Olympics, and so forth...

 

Nothing against changing the stock suspension with lowering springs only. I'm no suspension guru though but from my research, if you're lowering your car, it's best to install a roll center adjustment kit to keep the geometry closer to stock (which is a good thing). Most guys want a bigger drop in the front than the rear to level out the wheel gap and that's usually where the kit comes in most handy. I think the Works spring set up is an equal drop front and back to try and maintain the stock geometry.

Just my $0.02...

BTW, it was a legitimate question about your comment on making the tail of the car slightly more responsive. I was not being snide and would appreciate an explanation.

Cheers.

 

i drive my SE 115 miles a day 6 days a week and love it. mods are in my sig. drive it like u stole it.

 

Get a Cobb AP, then an intake on the cobb list if you like. Then a UICP. After that go after your favorite TBE. Done. Unless you want to upgrade your intercooler. Anything else and you better visit SSP's site for some serious transmission upgrades. Most folks stop at stage II which is a tune and a TBE.

I would recommend Cobbs Staged route.

 

I have an MR and personally I love it, I think its great that I can throw it in D and be super lazy if I want . Any who far as mod's go I did my own version of a build on a budget . It consists of the k&n drop in air filter, ultimate racing upper inter cooler pipe, speed circuit test pipe, ets cat back exhaust. I opted for the cobb ap also got a killer deal on one used. Over time I plan on adding the ets front mount intercooler and ets down pipe open dump .

 

I have a GSR now, which doesn't get daily driven. If I were to have an MR and daily drive it, I would definitely leave it stock power wise, in the event the twin clutch transmission decides to give me problems. Since it is a daily driver, I would do Swift springs, Whiteline front/rear sway bars, and a Whiteline RCA....maybe a catback as well for some increase volume.