Picked up EVO X yesterday!
Picked up EVO X yesterday!
New member and 1st Evo here
I just picked up my new 2011 WW Evo X GSR yesterday. I'm a total noob when it comes to the Evo and AWD so bare with me ( RWD JZA80 TT for the last 14 years
).
I'm going through a few things mentioned by board members to make sure the car has a good start.
1.Changing to the blue and grey fuse
2.getting clear bra/ paint protection installed
3. checking the transfer case oil level.
I did have a quick question about the transfer case. Will the car being on a set of ramp vs jacking it up make a difference? In past cars it ment little differnce, but not sure as the orientation of the plug on the evo.
Any other new car "musts" or tricks that are recommended would be great.
Thanks
I know, pics will follow
I just picked up my new 2011 WW Evo X GSR yesterday. I'm a total noob when it comes to the Evo and AWD so bare with me ( RWD JZA80 TT for the last 14 years
). I'm going through a few things mentioned by board members to make sure the car has a good start.
1.Changing to the blue and grey fuse
2.getting clear bra/ paint protection installed
3. checking the transfer case oil level.
I did have a quick question about the transfer case. Will the car being on a set of ramp vs jacking it up make a difference? In past cars it ment little differnce, but not sure as the orientation of the plug on the evo.
Any other new car "musts" or tricks that are recommended would be great.
Thanks
I know, pics will follow
Good luck actually getting in on the ramps. The front clearance is low.
BE AFRAID OF PARKING LOT BUMPSTOPS! Especially if you got the aero SSS package! You'll rip your spoiler right off!
(ask me how I know)
BE AFRAID OF PARKING LOT BUMPSTOPS! Especially if you got the aero SSS package! You'll rip your spoiler right off!
(ask me how I know)
2 quick pics!
Checked the transfer case oil and it wasn't overfilled
( ended up putting it on jack stands and made sure it was level)
Also put a zip tie on the FPR hose and ordered the blue and gray relays.
Checked the transfer case oil and it wasn't overfilled
( ended up putting it on jack stands and made sure it was level)Also put a zip tie on the FPR hose and ordered the blue and gray relays.
Last edited by Carnifex; May 11, 2011 at 07:27 PM. Reason: forgot text content
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how u know? i want a picture of your car!!! i want to see the aero kit
There's 2 contradicting theories for proper break in that you should pick and choose one now.
1. The conventional baby and drive it lightly avoiding anything past 4000 RPMs during the first 1000kms.
2. Drive it like you stole it reving all through the RPMs (minus hitting fuel cut) and never allowing it to stabilize for too long in order to properly seal the piston rings.
Either method should be fine, but the key is to avoid long highway crusing at constant RPM's as that's the worst method to break in an engine. FYI, I've always subscribed to the second method and I've never had a single serious problem with any of my cars.
1. The conventional baby and drive it lightly avoiding anything past 4000 RPMs during the first 1000kms.
2. Drive it like you stole it reving all through the RPMs (minus hitting fuel cut) and never allowing it to stabilize for too long in order to properly seal the piston rings.
Either method should be fine, but the key is to avoid long highway crusing at constant RPM's as that's the worst method to break in an engine. FYI, I've always subscribed to the second method and I've never had a single serious problem with any of my cars.
Sounds like you're off to a good start. Don't waste any time on the Clearbra.
I drive my car on the road course and with rocks flying at 100mph the front end of my car looks like children got angry with it. A street car won't have it quite as bad but it won't take long before it is chipped up.
I drive my car on the road course and with rocks flying at 100mph the front end of my car looks like children got angry with it. A street car won't have it quite as bad but it won't take long before it is chipped up.






