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So I bought two new cars new in 2012. A KIA Sportage and Evo X MR. After owning them for a month or two I decided to be proactive and do my own rust proofing. The KIA had better factory rubber undercoating than the Evo! Not the material being better, just that they did MORE of it. I finished what the factory started on both cars using NAPA rubberized undercoat spray (rattle can). Use the correct gas mask. I will say that again: use the correct gas mask! This stuff is nasty. When it dries, you cannot tell it apart from the factory rubber rust proofing stuff. Fast forward 2 more NY winters. I inspect the undercarriage of the Evo X and find rust at nearly all weld joints of the supporting subframes and other areas like the jack points, and bumper area. So any rust I can spot I bead blast to bare metal and coat with POR-15. This is now my go forward plan every other year. Inspect - blast away rust, coat in POR-15. The areas that I have done show zero signs of rust coming back. You have to get to bare metal. I believe that if I keep inspecting, removing, coating that I will keep this evo alive and well. Looking under it right now you would think it was Texas car !
The blue can is NAPA rubberized undercoat and the bottle next to it is the bead blaster.
Before anyone uses Por15, check out the site I listed. Trust me. I had a rusted-out Grand National. After a month of research, I found Eastwood products to be better and simpler to use. Some can be sprayed right over existing rust.
At least give it a browse. Awesome stuff, I promise.
Before anyone uses Por15, check out the site I listed. Trust me. I had a rusted-out Grand National. After a month of research, I found Eastwood products to be better and simpler to use. Some can be sprayed right over existing rust.
At least give it a browse. Awesome stuff, I promise.
Eastwood does have good products. I buy my por-15 from them. Which stands for paint over rust (por). However, if you want it done right then bare metal is the best way to go no matter what the can says.
Eastwood does have good products. I buy my por-15 from them. Which stands for paint over rust (por). However, if you want it done right then bare metal is the best way to go no matter what the can says.
i agree. but some places are hard to reach (inside flame rails, etc) and need something to go over. it's last-ditch, but an option. POR was okay, but i liked some of the other stuff a bit better. either is better than nothing, though.
Just to chime in late, I switched from FluidFilm to Amsoil HD metal protector and I couldn't be happier. It dries to a waxy film and isn't as runny or dirty looking as Fluid Film. FF did a really good job for the first three winters I applied it but it always smelled terrible for a couple days and would drip in my garage in the summers. The HD holds up longer and looks better dried.
I also have walnut shell, which I acquired at Harbor Freight, but I have not used it yet.
~Jaraxle
That product sounds impressive! What grade do you think you used? and nozzle size?
Isn't walnut shell the least abrasive? What does rust-free paint removal mean? lol
Thanks for the link. I wonder how I can get a hold of that stuff
Originally Posted by splattj
Just to chime in late, I switched from FluidFilm to Amsoil HD metal protector and I couldn't be happier. It dries to a waxy film and isn't as runny or dirty looking as Fluid Film. FF did a really good job for the first three winters I applied it but it always smelled terrible for a couple days and would drip in my garage in the summers. The HD holds up longer and looks better dried.
I've always liked AMSOIL fluids. Big fan of their fluids. I need to find a blaster and some media asap
Any Virginia folks doing this? I feel they don't salt the roads here frequently enough for it be an issue, but they do get salted a handful of times per winter...
Jun 18, 2015, 09:53 PM
