STi Owner...Was Always Evo Lover...Need Advice
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From: NY
STi Owner...Was Always Evo Lover...Need Advice
Whats up guys, first let me start by saying I love both Evo's and STi's. TBH I probably liked Evo's a little more, especially the IX's.
Anyways, right now I own a 2011 sti sedan. As soon as I got the car I had some plans for it. I basically went to a stage 2 set up right out of the gate. My mods I did to the car were CAI, Grimmspeed ebcs, downpipe, exhaust, walboro fuel pump, and 1 step colder spark plugs and tune. I got tuned by John @ The Shop CT, and ended up with 304whp and 350wtq. It was a conservative tune, bc im sure as you guys know, there have been ALOT of ringland failures with these new STi's. Ok, well after driving her for 6,600 miles, thats when it happened. The motor blew. Shattered piston, bent valve, and damaged head. My options now are to build the motor and go stronger, bc this is a must. Luckily all I would have to do is basically buy pistons, and labor won't be bad as I have a good connection to help me with that.
Reason Im posting here is because Ive been looking at the power bragging threads and is making me second-guess my decision. Ive been seeing threads with Evo's running fp blacks and making 400+whp on the stock block. I know Evo's have stronger engines (esp. 4g63) but what about the X's? Are the 4b11t's making good power on the stock block without doing internals etc?
Put it this way, I put about $2,000 in my STi for parts, install and tune for my car and ended up with 304whp 350wtq...and still popped the motor..if one were to spend that $ on an Evo X, what power could be made safely on the stock block?
My other question is... for my car, problems: are the pistons and some other motor issues, rattles in the car, i dont like the seats (i like recaros
), but the car does handle well. The '11 suspension is very capable.
What general problems do Evo X's owners have to deal with? Tell me the good, the bad!!
Last question guys... i put $12 grand down, so the loan I have on my car is for about 20ish grand. I've never traded in a car, but how would it work if I wanted to trade in my sti for a new or low mileage Evo X? I dont know how this re-financing stuff works, but would my payments remain the same or would they go up? I know it is hard to answer, but just seeking general/ballpark advice. Also, read on here that Route 46 Mitsu is a good dealer if I do decide to see whats up. I live in the NY area. Thanks guys any input is greatly appreciated!
Anyways, right now I own a 2011 sti sedan. As soon as I got the car I had some plans for it. I basically went to a stage 2 set up right out of the gate. My mods I did to the car were CAI, Grimmspeed ebcs, downpipe, exhaust, walboro fuel pump, and 1 step colder spark plugs and tune. I got tuned by John @ The Shop CT, and ended up with 304whp and 350wtq. It was a conservative tune, bc im sure as you guys know, there have been ALOT of ringland failures with these new STi's. Ok, well after driving her for 6,600 miles, thats when it happened. The motor blew. Shattered piston, bent valve, and damaged head. My options now are to build the motor and go stronger, bc this is a must. Luckily all I would have to do is basically buy pistons, and labor won't be bad as I have a good connection to help me with that.
Reason Im posting here is because Ive been looking at the power bragging threads and is making me second-guess my decision. Ive been seeing threads with Evo's running fp blacks and making 400+whp on the stock block. I know Evo's have stronger engines (esp. 4g63) but what about the X's? Are the 4b11t's making good power on the stock block without doing internals etc?
Put it this way, I put about $2,000 in my STi for parts, install and tune for my car and ended up with 304whp 350wtq...and still popped the motor..if one were to spend that $ on an Evo X, what power could be made safely on the stock block?
My other question is... for my car, problems: are the pistons and some other motor issues, rattles in the car, i dont like the seats (i like recaros
), but the car does handle well. The '11 suspension is very capable.What general problems do Evo X's owners have to deal with? Tell me the good, the bad!!
Last question guys... i put $12 grand down, so the loan I have on my car is for about 20ish grand. I've never traded in a car, but how would it work if I wanted to trade in my sti for a new or low mileage Evo X? I dont know how this re-financing stuff works, but would my payments remain the same or would they go up? I know it is hard to answer, but just seeking general/ballpark advice. Also, read on here that Route 46 Mitsu is a good dealer if I do decide to see whats up. I live in the NY area. Thanks guys any input is greatly appreciated!
sounds like your tuner sucks, actually. And those mods were pretty lame.
You are going to get absolutely raped on trade in and it's a horrible decision.
get whatever you can get fixed under warranty done, get a Cobb AP, buy the exact parts listed in their Stage 2 maps, run E85/93/91 maps or whatever and you'll be hanging with 99% of Evo's you'll ever encounter.
You are going to get absolutely raped on trade in and it's a horrible decision.
get whatever you can get fixed under warranty done, get a Cobb AP, buy the exact parts listed in their Stage 2 maps, run E85/93/91 maps or whatever and you'll be hanging with 99% of Evo's you'll ever encounter.
Last edited by ikt; Feb 16, 2012 at 07:43 PM.
its easy to make 350hp/tq on the evo x safely with just boltons and a tune. You can do all that for a little over $1000 if you use cheaper parts.
From there, it gets a bit more tricky. The weakest link is the rods. You can tempt fate and go with a stock-frame turbo, like any of the FP's and get anywhere from 380 to 475hp on pump gas, but anything in the high 300's is dangerous.
To play it safe, you should upgrade the rods first. But most people use the 'while im at it' method and end up building the shortblock out instead of doing just rods. so a $400 upgrade can easily turn into a $2000 upgrade.... or a $4000 upgrade if you want to increase displacement.
But once you do that, boost away! The rest of the block is pretty solid as long as you keep up wtih fuel supply and dont get too aggressive on you AFRs and timing. I can't count the number of cars i've seen in the 500's, and there are more than a couple up into the 800's and above.
as for the trade... dont look at it as a trade. Look at it as the dealer buying your sti, and you using whatever they give you for it to pay off your loan. Anything left over gets added to your down payment. if your upside down, you still have to pay that part off on your own.
From there, it gets a bit more tricky. The weakest link is the rods. You can tempt fate and go with a stock-frame turbo, like any of the FP's and get anywhere from 380 to 475hp on pump gas, but anything in the high 300's is dangerous.
To play it safe, you should upgrade the rods first. But most people use the 'while im at it' method and end up building the shortblock out instead of doing just rods. so a $400 upgrade can easily turn into a $2000 upgrade.... or a $4000 upgrade if you want to increase displacement.
But once you do that, boost away! The rest of the block is pretty solid as long as you keep up wtih fuel supply and dont get too aggressive on you AFRs and timing. I can't count the number of cars i've seen in the 500's, and there are more than a couple up into the 800's and above.
as for the trade... dont look at it as a trade. Look at it as the dealer buying your sti, and you using whatever they give you for it to pay off your loan. Anything left over gets added to your down payment. if your upside down, you still have to pay that part off on your own.
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Joined: Jun 2011
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From: NY
sounds like your tuner sucks, actually. And those mods were pretty lame.
You are going to get absolutely raped on trade in and it's a horrible decision.
get whatever you can get fixed under warranty done, get a Cobb AP, buy the exact parts listed in their Stage 2 maps, run E85/93/91 maps or whatever and you'll be hanging with 99% of Evo's you'll ever encounter.
You are going to get absolutely raped on trade in and it's a horrible decision.
get whatever you can get fixed under warranty done, get a Cobb AP, buy the exact parts listed in their Stage 2 maps, run E85/93/91 maps or whatever and you'll be hanging with 99% of Evo's you'll ever encounter.
its easy to make 350hp/tq on the evo x safely with just boltons and a tune. You can do all that for a little over $1000 if you use cheaper parts.
From there, it gets a bit more tricky. The weakest link is the rods. You can tempt fate and go with a stock-frame turbo, like any of the FP's and get anywhere from 380 to 475hp on pump gas, but anything in the high 300's is dangerous.
To play it safe, you should upgrade the rods first. But most people use the 'while im at it' method and end up building the shortblock out instead of doing just rods. so a $400 upgrade can easily turn into a $2000 upgrade.... or a $4000 upgrade if you want to increase displacement.
But once you do that, boost away! The rest of the block is pretty solid as long as you keep up wtih fuel supply and dont get too aggressive on you AFRs and timing. I can't count the number of cars i've seen in the 500's, and there are more than a couple up into the 800's and above.
as for the trade... dont look at it as a trade. Look at it as the dealer buying your sti, and you using whatever they give you for it to pay off your loan. Anything left over gets added to your down payment. if your upside down, you still have to pay that part off on your own.
From there, it gets a bit more tricky. The weakest link is the rods. You can tempt fate and go with a stock-frame turbo, like any of the FP's and get anywhere from 380 to 475hp on pump gas, but anything in the high 300's is dangerous.
To play it safe, you should upgrade the rods first. But most people use the 'while im at it' method and end up building the shortblock out instead of doing just rods. so a $400 upgrade can easily turn into a $2000 upgrade.... or a $4000 upgrade if you want to increase displacement.
But once you do that, boost away! The rest of the block is pretty solid as long as you keep up wtih fuel supply and dont get too aggressive on you AFRs and timing. I can't count the number of cars i've seen in the 500's, and there are more than a couple up into the 800's and above.
as for the trade... dont look at it as a trade. Look at it as the dealer buying your sti, and you using whatever they give you for it to pay off your loan. Anything left over gets added to your down payment. if your upside down, you still have to pay that part off on your own.
Yea you would lose a lot on trade in as you know.
The 4B11 can run 370ish wtq on stock internals and that's about it's limits. The torque is what kills the rods but you can hit 450whp with the right mods combo/turbo..
The engines run strong, the interior is okay- def has some rattles but stock seats are really nice, and the dealers suck at getting stuff warrantied. Most complaints are about rattles, thin paint, or a kinda "cheap" feel to the interior. The Evo suspension is a good step up over the STi, btw.
Can you live with paying 20k still for a car, when you think you might rather have a different one? I couldn't.. I say if you can afford it comfortably, do what makes you happy.
The 4B11 can run 370ish wtq on stock internals and that's about it's limits. The torque is what kills the rods but you can hit 450whp with the right mods combo/turbo..
The engines run strong, the interior is okay- def has some rattles but stock seats are really nice, and the dealers suck at getting stuff warrantied. Most complaints are about rattles, thin paint, or a kinda "cheap" feel to the interior. The Evo suspension is a good step up over the STi, btw.
Can you live with paying 20k still for a car, when you think you might rather have a different one? I couldn't.. I say if you can afford it comfortably, do what makes you happy.
Those mods were lame? That is the perfect stage 2 set up for an STi... LOL. Those are actually great mods, and what most knowledgeable guys with stis do. I would never use an ots map.
Ok I see, I thought people were making 450whp on stock blocks or something ridiculous like that. Right now I owe about 20 grand on the car, so basically it wouldnt be worth it to trade in right?
Ok I see, I thought people were making 450whp on stock blocks or something ridiculous like that. Right now I owe about 20 grand on the car, so basically it wouldnt be worth it to trade in right?
Right, and you blew your motor and your tuner sucks. Cobb AP + Accesstuner Race and you make your own map, building off their dyno tunes. Then you run pulls and they help you. Tons of us have Cobbs, and I doubt any of us are running OTS maps.
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Joined: Jun 2011
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From: NY
Edit: Let me say, that its always about having a great tune actually. And im generally a nice guy, but to throw in my face that i blew the motor (when i know that already) is a little bit harsh no?
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John is a nasty tuner, he tuned my car and im very happy with it.
If your looking for cheaper power i know evo 8/9s are good. Take a look at my sig and numbers, stock block conservative tune.
If your looking for cheaper power i know evo 8/9s are good. Take a look at my sig and numbers, stock block conservative tune.
sounds like your tuner sucks, actually. And those mods were pretty lame.
You are going to get absolutely raped on trade in and it's a horrible decision.
get whatever you can get fixed under warranty done, get a Cobb AP, buy the exact parts listed in their Stage 2 maps, run E85/93/91 maps or whatever and you'll be hanging with 99% of Evo's you'll ever encounter.
You are going to get absolutely raped on trade in and it's a horrible decision.
get whatever you can get fixed under warranty done, get a Cobb AP, buy the exact parts listed in their Stage 2 maps, run E85/93/91 maps or whatever and you'll be hanging with 99% of Evo's you'll ever encounter.
Plenty of "stage 2" sti threads putting down numbers very near his.
I'm not as familiar with the X's. Those numbers can be had for a bit less than Cobb's $2295.00 price tag with bolt-ons and a good tune with a 9. As far as keeping up with 99% of the evos encountered with those numbers, maybe if he only ever saw 2.
Last edited by boozeup&riot; Feb 16, 2012 at 10:41 PM.
Get the car you'll be happy with............ its only money spend it on what you enjoy. Even building the motor on the STI you would probably spend less than if you traded in. I had 2 stis before I finally bought my evo...... no way I would go back.
sounds like your tuner sucks, actually. And those mods were pretty lame.
You are going to get absolutely raped on trade in and it's a horrible decision.
get whatever you can get fixed under warranty done, get a Cobb AP, buy the exact parts listed in their Stage 2 maps, run E85/93/91 maps or whatever and you'll be hanging with 99% of Evo's you'll ever encounter.
You are going to get absolutely raped on trade in and it's a horrible decision.
get whatever you can get fixed under warranty done, get a Cobb AP, buy the exact parts listed in their Stage 2 maps, run E85/93/91 maps or whatever and you'll be hanging with 99% of Evo's you'll ever encounter.
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: San Antonio, TX
Right now I owe about 20 grand on the car, so basically it wouldnt be worth it to trade in right?
I have been keeping an eye out on some WRX's. Here in San Antonio they sale them as soon as they get them. We are on a 2-3 month wait for a new one. And a used 2011 is going almost as much as it cost new. And they usually sale the first day they are posted.
If I want an EVO I can go get a silver one today. Or wait about 3 days for the WW.