question on gauges
question on gauges
im fairly new to setting up cars so im wondering what gauges do you guys recommend me to get and whats the purpose and how do i use those gauges.
heres what i have right now
2010 evo x gsr
ets test pipe
ets intake
greddy se exhaust
and will get ets intercooler kit then tune.
heres what i have right now
2010 evo x gsr
ets test pipe
ets intake
greddy se exhaust
and will get ets intercooler kit then tune.
I am fairly new as well and don't have gauges yet but from my lurking here the last few months it looks as though Boost and Wideband Air/Fuel are the important ones. That's what I am getting next.
If you're looking into going with an Ecuflash (OpenECU) tune, you might find it helpful to pick up an AFR gauge that's compatible with Evoscan for logging purposes. I believe Innovative, Zeitronics and the AEM UEGO are currently the ones that are compatible. I run an AEM UEGO and also an AEM boost gauge, and it's nice to be have the AFR gauge sending data to Ecuflash when I'm logging.
Last edited by SudzRA; Apr 17, 2012 at 12:06 PM.
This is true. However for some it would make life easy to grab one that doesn't require you to go down that road. You're right in that you don't need a specific wideband to get logging data, and I should have mentioned that in my post.
wb02 is best gauge to have, even over boost IMO, but yeah boot and wb give you all you need. Oil pressure is a good insurance policy too.
saw this last week, I think I'm going to go with it:
http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideba...safe-gauge-84/
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No worries, I was just trying to be all encompassing
okay lets say i get the wideband and boost gauges, what do i need to look for on those gauges like is there a specific psi that i need to maintain and stuff like that, like i said im really new and i really dont have much knowledge about stuff like this.
boost gauge and wideband gauge
can't go wrong with aem uego, it's the best and used by most.
you can pretty much get any brand for boost gauge but personally i'd stay away from auto meter gauges..
boost - 20-22 psi depend on rpm range...
af ratio before tune should be in 11s at wot and mid 14s at idle
can't go wrong with aem uego, it's the best and used by most.
you can pretty much get any brand for boost gauge but personally i'd stay away from auto meter gauges..
boost - 20-22 psi depend on rpm range...
af ratio before tune should be in 11s at wot and mid 14s at idle
This question is best asked to your tuner, however if you're running the OE tune:
1. Boost - you'll see it peak at 22.9-23.1 and taper to like 16ish at redline (that's normal boost targets for the X)
- Best use of the gauge is making sure you're not going over 23 on a peak, and you'll want to stay out of the boost when you're loading the engine at low rpms (like hitting boost in 5th gear under 3.5k Rpms is bad. The gauge simply helps you stay conscious of this
2. Wideband A/F. You'll see it bounce around to all sorts of stuff, but really you want to make sure idle is 14.1-15.5 ish. I say ish because if you kick on your AC you might see it spike then level out, and that's normal.
What really matters is WOT. WOT the OE tune is stupid rich, and even a good quality gauge usually only goes to 10.0:1 ration (Green). You'll likely see the WOT AF around 10.1-10.8:1. After visiting a tuner you'll likely see it a little leaner like ~11.5:1, but this is all up to the tuner.
What you want to avoid is seeing >12.0:1 under WOT. If you do, take your foot off the throttle and back it down.
Watching AF ratio at idle is good first indicator of vacuum leaks and failing MAFs too. When those things fail the gauge will bounce around like no tomorrow and will likely try to stabilize around 16-17:1 and then you know you should have someone take a look at things.
This question is best asked to your tuner, however if you're running the OE tune:
1. Boost - you'll see it peak at 22.9-23.1 and taper to like 16ish at redline (that's normal boost targets for the X)
- Best use of the gauge is making sure you're not going over 23 on a peak, and you'll want to stay out of the boost when you're loading the engine at low rpms (like hitting boost in 5th gear under 3.5k Rpms is bad. The gauge simply helps you stay conscious of this
2. Wideband A/F. You'll see it bounce around to all sorts of stuff, but really you want to make sure idle is 14.1-15.5 ish. I say ish because if you kick on your AC you might see it spike then level out, and that's normal.
What really matters is WOT. WOT the OE tune is stupid rich, and even a good quality gauge usually only goes to 10.0:1 ration (Green). You'll likely see the WOT AF around 10.1-10.8:1. After visiting a tuner you'll likely see it a little leaner like ~11.5:1, but this is all up to the tuner.
What you want to avoid is seeing >12.0:1 under WOT. If you do, take your foot off the throttle and back it down.
Watching AF ratio at idle is good first indicator of vacuum leaks and failing MAFs too. When those things fail the gauge will bounce around like no tomorrow and will likely try to stabilize around 16-17:1 and then you know you should have someone take a look at things.
1. Boost - you'll see it peak at 22.9-23.1 and taper to like 16ish at redline (that's normal boost targets for the X)
- Best use of the gauge is making sure you're not going over 23 on a peak, and you'll want to stay out of the boost when you're loading the engine at low rpms (like hitting boost in 5th gear under 3.5k Rpms is bad. The gauge simply helps you stay conscious of this
2. Wideband A/F. You'll see it bounce around to all sorts of stuff, but really you want to make sure idle is 14.1-15.5 ish. I say ish because if you kick on your AC you might see it spike then level out, and that's normal.
What really matters is WOT. WOT the OE tune is stupid rich, and even a good quality gauge usually only goes to 10.0:1 ration (Green). You'll likely see the WOT AF around 10.1-10.8:1. After visiting a tuner you'll likely see it a little leaner like ~11.5:1, but this is all up to the tuner.
What you want to avoid is seeing >12.0:1 under WOT. If you do, take your foot off the throttle and back it down.
Watching AF ratio at idle is good first indicator of vacuum leaks and failing MAFs too. When those things fail the gauge will bounce around like no tomorrow and will likely try to stabilize around 16-17:1 and then you know you should have someone take a look at things.
this is awesome and definitely the answer was looking for, im actually looking to get aems for both wideband and boost now im looking for good ideas where to munt them.

That is correct. If you look at a standard boost gauge most read the vacuum in inHg (inches-mercury). -9-10psi ~= -17-18mmHg


