If you had.....
Advan RZ-DFs and some good tires put me WELL over 5k...
If I were to do it again I'd probably still go this route, although going for a couple of power mods first was tempting. I just needed a second set of rims to do the summer/winter thing, and I hate to buy twice, so I got what I wanted on the first try.
If I were to do it again I'd probably still go this route, although going for a couple of power mods first was tempting. I just needed a second set of rims to do the summer/winter thing, and I hate to buy twice, so I got what I wanted on the first try.
I see you had edited your post and it made me laugh. I have new stuff for the clutch here for when I do rebuild so thats not money I have spend hahaha. And as long as I can keep the tq respectable the hd twin should be just fine. As far as the stages my car is pretty much done. That would top it off and that is what I am planning on doing to complete it 
Also i tend to forget , different people need the Evo for diffenrent reasons.
Some people build a 500+ hp car and never really drives it. Some has stock engine and drives it all around race tracks. So it was really a good time to delete the clutch etc comment.

I would get something like the A08 or the R888's. And spend the money on barkes and suspension.
Racing slicks are little bit further on the road. try to feel and learn the car on those semi racing tires, they are more predictable and friendly . After when you are really goot used to the car , and you have all the suspension and brake upgrades, then you buy a real racing slicks. For auto X probably something crazy soft ones
Thanks for the clarification Rob i really do appreciate it, I'm still new to the game and just starting to really get into Auto X. also not looking to stiffen the **** out of my car i still need it to be DD friendly, so im not planning on going crazy with the suspension
i edited it , since i didnt want to get into this whole step by step building thread... LOL
Also i tend to forget , different people need the Evo for diffenrent reasons.
Some people build a 500+ hp car and never really drives it. Some has stock engine and drives it all around race tracks. So it was really a good time to delete the clutch etc comment.

Also i tend to forget , different people need the Evo for diffenrent reasons.
Some people build a 500+ hp car and never really drives it. Some has stock engine and drives it all around race tracks. So it was really a good time to delete the clutch etc comment.


You will get to a point where you think the suspension is really good, then someone with about the same power will let you drive their cars with a full suspension and it will be nite and day difference. For example when my car had the mr suspension on it I was like damn this thing handles like its on rails. Put the coil overs on and had it resetup up and aligned and million% different in the way the car handles just by doing that. Another thing I will suggest is looking into the poly bushings. If your doing autox or whatever racing you get into they will make a big difference as well being the car wont feel mushy in the corners as it did with stock bushings.
If its power i think gar2212 has it pretty spot on:
Intake
Exhaust
FMIC
Racing slicks and rims for auto x
Sway bars
Tune
3 Port boost solenoid
Brake Pads
Brake Lines
Rotors
Look and feel:
Suspension: Coils, sways
Wheels
Front CF Lip
-maybe a CBE so you dont look awesome then sound lame lol...
Intake
Exhaust
FMIC
Racing slicks and rims for auto x
Sway bars
Tune
3 Port boost solenoid
Brake Pads
Brake Lines
Rotors
Look and feel:
Suspension: Coils, sways
Wheels
Front CF Lip
-maybe a CBE so you dont look awesome then sound lame lol...










. $5k would be shortblock and some ancillary parts only for me. Or turbo kit only.