Run BOV & REC?
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From: Fort Jackson
Run BOV & REC?
Hi all I was looking around lancershop.com and found this http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...cat=172&page=1
Greddy Type RZ BOV Blow off Valve Adater Kit for factory piping.
It connects to the factory hot tube by replacing the metal middle piece with the flang and BOV. But with this setup you could run the BOV on the hot tube and REC vaulve still on the cold tube. Giving you 2 BOV but the question is would it work could it be tuned to work and would it act like a dual port or would one cancel the other?
Just wanted to know.
Greddy Type RZ BOV Blow off Valve Adater Kit for factory piping.
It connects to the factory hot tube by replacing the metal middle piece with the flang and BOV. But with this setup you could run the BOV on the hot tube and REC vaulve still on the cold tube. Giving you 2 BOV but the question is would it work could it be tuned to work and would it act like a dual port or would one cancel the other?
Just wanted to know.
There would be no point in doing that other than for show. There wouldn't be any tangible tuning/performance benefit from it. How do I know? I did that as a temporary fix on my 98 GSX when I couldn't find something to plug the stock port when I was running the TiAL BOV and AMS FMIC with piping. It sounded AWESOME, but there was no benefit to doing it other than that.
Everytime I ask someone about running a BOV on the X I get laughed at. Still dont understand why. Apparently people think its ricey or some crap or another. I personally say that the only problem with the X is that it doesnt sound like a turbo'd car, to me, as of yet. We'll see what adding the Tubro Inlet and SRI and UICP's do to open to that...
ouch, yeah i couldn't justify $400 bucks on a blow off valve... just go with the turbosmart dual port.. it's the loudest ive ever heard. They sell on the forums for pretty cheap
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Fort Jackson
Run BOV & REC?
Yep we all know get a intake and you the driver can hear it but any one more then 5 feet / with windows down can't hear it. So it's not the same no matter how many people say to do it. On my old 8 I had the GFB full vent you could hear it a block away. But the reason for the thread is having 2 bov setups on a car. Dual ports are ok but not as loud as vta and have had leak issues turbo smart and GFB. Just asking for thoughts on the main topic because I have had a lot of people ask over and over about this they want to vent but have the safty of rec. Being called a ricer is stupid just like calling a skate boarder a poser even if he is very good it does not mean any thing ricer was a name given to any one in a asian car by american car guy's not just crap cars made to look fast. Every one thinks of turbo cars with a vta and when some honda or mustange try to run you and hear a vta it is a intimidator don't let any one tell you different.
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Yep we all know get a intake and you the driver can hear it but any one more then 5 feet / with windows down can't hear it. So it's not the same no matter how many people say to do it. On my old 8 I had the GFB full vent you could hear it a block away. But the reason for the thread is having 2 bov setups on a car. Dual ports are ok but not as loud as vta and have had leak issues turbo smart and GFB. Just asking for thoughts on the main topic because I have had a lot of people ask over and over about this they want to vent but have the safty of rec. Being called a ricer is stupid just like calling a skate boarder a poser even if he is very good it does not mean any thing ricer was a name given to any one in a asian car by american car guy's not just crap cars made to look fast. Every one thinks of turbo cars with a vta and when some honda or mustange try to run you and hear a vta it is a intimidator don't let any one tell you different.
If you want to get the loud sound without the ill affect of venting to the atmosphere, you can upgrade to the TiAL Q. I ran a TiAL 50mm with no issues on my IX. Just get a boost gauge to read the vacuum and select the right spring for the TiAL Q.
Last edited by EuroEclipse; Jun 4, 2012 at 01:03 PM.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Fort Jackson
Run BOV & REC?
O this is not for me I tried a 50-50 before I learned my leason this is just public thought because it is made to go on the hot tube so you could keep you stock bov to on the cold tube. looked like a good topic no one has brought up and I am sure there would have been one person that would see that item and think of the same thing so here will be the answer.
Everytime I ask someone about running a BOV on the X I get laughed at. Still dont understand why. Apparently people think its ricey or some crap or another. I personally say that the only problem with the X is that it doesnt sound like a turbo'd car, to me, as of yet. We'll see what adding the Tubro Inlet and SRI and UICP's do to open to that...
No, honestly, Subies and Evo's really do *run* better with a d/v and not a bov. Making your Evo run better is a better goal than anything else. However if you run an open-element intake (ETS, AMS, Injen, K&N, etc) you'll hear the D/V dump behind the MAF just fine.
If you wanted get the sound and be flashy for 1 night, just get a BOV that can be set up for recirc, atmo, and 50/50. That way you can run recirc every day except for the first night of being flashy running amto until you realize it sucks to blow-off then have your car stumble to hold an idle from spiking so rich. I know the Agency Power BOV can be set up for amto and 50/50, but I think GFB and a few others make ones too. Way easier to spend a couple minutes converting one of those from Atmo to recirc rather than buy 2 valves and deal with how much air is going in what direction. Last thing you'd want is heavy turbulence through the FMIC
Last edited by TheBlade; Jun 4, 2012 at 02:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Fort Jackson
Run BOV & REC?
We all know EVO owners like to stay with REC and that VTA with out tune will affect the way the car drives if one wanted VTA it could be tuned to work.
2 BOV 1 CAR
Agen with the setup mentioned the car would be 50-50 because it would run a VTA and a REC at the same time. 1 before the IC and 1 after the IC. So the question is would you think this setup world work being a more perfect 50-50 setup? The main reason for this thread is to make fun of how greddy is selling it as a piece for the hot tube before the IC and not a cold tube after the IC. With the way they placed where the BOV is installed it would still leave the stock one on or would you take the stock off and block those plugs on the cold side? Also makes no since to have a BOV for the hot tube that connects to the factory tube when most people replace this part first.
Greddy really?
2 BOV 1 CAR
Agen with the setup mentioned the car would be 50-50 because it would run a VTA and a REC at the same time. 1 before the IC and 1 after the IC. So the question is would you think this setup world work being a more perfect 50-50 setup? The main reason for this thread is to make fun of how greddy is selling it as a piece for the hot tube before the IC and not a cold tube after the IC. With the way they placed where the BOV is installed it would still leave the stock one on or would you take the stock off and block those plugs on the cold side? Also makes no since to have a BOV for the hot tube that connects to the factory tube when most people replace this part first.
Greddy really?
I had that one and it was too loud for me... put back on the stock BOV and never looked back.
The sound of a turbo car is that sweet spool and sudden ferocity in the exhaust note, not the "sppaSsssh" after. Besides if you build your car right, the people you leave behind will only hear the spool and then exhaust, and will likely be too far away to hear the d/v.
No, honestly, Subies and Evo's really do *run* better with a d/v and not a bov. Making your Evo run better is a better goal than anything else. However if you run an open-element intake (ETS, AMS, Injen, K&N, etc) you'll hear the D/V dump behind the MAF just fine.
If you wanted get the sound and be flashy for 1 night, just get a BOV that can be set up for recirc, atmo, and 50/50. That way you can run recirc every day except for the first night of being flashy running amto until you realize it sucks to blow-off then have your car stumble to hold an idle from spiking so rich. I know the Agency Power BOV can be set up for amto and 50/50, but I think GFB and a few others make ones too. Way easier to spend a couple minutes converting one of those from Atmo to recirc rather than buy 2 valves and deal with how much air is going in what direction. Last thing you'd want is heavy turbulence through the FMIC
No, honestly, Subies and Evo's really do *run* better with a d/v and not a bov. Making your Evo run better is a better goal than anything else. However if you run an open-element intake (ETS, AMS, Injen, K&N, etc) you'll hear the D/V dump behind the MAF just fine.
If you wanted get the sound and be flashy for 1 night, just get a BOV that can be set up for recirc, atmo, and 50/50. That way you can run recirc every day except for the first night of being flashy running amto until you realize it sucks to blow-off then have your car stumble to hold an idle from spiking so rich. I know the Agency Power BOV can be set up for amto and 50/50, but I think GFB and a few others make ones too. Way easier to spend a couple minutes converting one of those from Atmo to recirc rather than buy 2 valves and deal with how much air is going in what direction. Last thing you'd want is heavy turbulence through the FMIC
Probably a reason a lot of EVO owners are Refered to as bag, douche in the tuner world right there.
What you call flashy or whatever just might be someone else's preference. Figure that's why we all mod our cars to how we want them and usually that doesn't always follow popular or public opinion. I digress from the op's intentions in this thread. Forgive the intrusion
