PonoPride

Ok so here we go. Ive bin looking into getting some parts for my Evo X. I dont really have a goal number in mind but i guess i want to get the most i can get reliably out of my stock turbo. I plan to keep this car for a while in this form until the motor craps out then i'll build the motor and go with a big turbo upgrade at the same time. Right now this is what i got.

One step colder spark plugs
AMS Intake
AMS ICPs
AMS Intercooler
AMS Turbo-back Exhaust w/ High Flow Cat
Upgraded Radiator (To help combat heat) (Thinking Koyo or Mishimoto)
Grimm Speed EBC
Magnus Motorsports Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
ACT Streetlite Flywheel

I guess a few questions i got is exactly how much boost can the stock turbo run before heat soak and does this level of mods bring the stock injectors near max duty cycle? if so what upgrades do i need for the fuel system? Will be running this setup on Hawaii 92 Octane as we dont have E85 out here. Im basically preping the car for the built motor/big turbo upgrade but dont wanna upgrade the fuel system unless needed because i heard running extra large injectors when not needed will just burn more gas then needed. I dont want to run a turbo kit on the stock block because as of now the car is still my DD.

PonoPride

Any help would be appreciated.

Mer476

With that setup you can probably expect 330-350 WHP on a mustang dyno. I am a Cobb fanatic since I live in Texas. Don't forget a good tune as that is what will make the difference between you car running ok to your car running great.

Look at the access port, the upside is that it is proven, reliable, and easy. The downside is that Cobb guards its IP very closely and you will need to find a Cobb tuner for the for me, I am just waiting for Cobb to release the Evo FMIC and I will be done with the car until the engine craps out.

Leopard

Delete my post lol. Read the thread wrong

PonoPride

Yeah i know about getting a tune. gonna have a friend that street tunes use evoscan unless Cobb AP is that much better because we dont have a cobb tuner in hawaii. only got 1 awd dyno to be honest lol.

ugakirk

iTrader: (14)

You might not need different plugs on those mods to be honest. All of the mods look good. I might would go with a CBRD radiator over those choices you have though. And what about an AMS CMC since you are getting everything else from them?

Is you clutch slipping or anything or are you just going to replace it. The stock clutch can handle those power levels if you aren't launching the car all over the place. Never bad to have a clutch just in case though.. Especially if you live far away like in Hawaii.

I would hit up MAP and see what kind of quote you can get for everything.

SamsonEvoX

Mod list looks good. I don't think you need colder plugs for what you are planning on doing though. If you get a bigger turbo and make a lot more power, then they might be needed. And, do not, I repeat, do not get the Magnus CMC. There are countless threads about the trouble people are having with them. Get the AMS CMC and be done with it.

PonoPride

ok thanks for that. will definitely get the AMS CMC. Why do you prefer the CBRD radiator over the other two? and my clutch isnt slipping yet but i im at 53k miles right now so its bound to go eventually with the increased WHP. and the reason for going with colder plugs would just to be on the safe side since i gotta replace them at 60k anyways.

ugakirk

iTrader: (14)

All CBRD products are top notch and proven to help temps. It costs a tad more but it would be worth it IMO. I just like their quality more. That's why I would suggest it over other products. I would make sure and get some silicone radiator hoses too.

And as far as the Magnus kit < AMS kit, it's almost the same thing. Magnus initially was using aftermarket Evo 9 CMCs instead of OEM Evo 9 CMCs. That's why there were problems from the Magnus kits. As long as it comes with OEM parts, it should be good.

Johnr352

iTrader: (18)

I'm surprised you think the radiator needs replacing. Evo X are not known to run overly hot and, to date, we run the stock radiator on the time attack car. Maybe you are in stop and go traffic for hours? I would get the ACT 6 puck w their flywheel.

Use the oem plugs.

PonoPride

Iono i guess im just worried and trying to over engineer the cooling components. Curious on why stay with the oem plugs when most peeps say get one step colder for insurance.

digitalskillz

The lightened flywheel and clutch is going to make it less enjoyable to drive in traffic.
I suggest you do not go with a lightened flywheel unless it's not a daily driver.
Remove the clutch restrictor pill though. It'll make whatever clutch you go with have smoother engagement.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-pill-out.html

You don't need to replace your radiator. Mitsubishi did an awesome job on the grill and hood to combat heat.

Our stock spark plugs are already high end and you should just get the same if you need to replace.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...park-plug.html

Our stock injectors and fuel pump can scale (although just barely) to the maximum output of the stock turbo. No need to upgrade.

Pushing the stock turbo to it's max, the AMS intercooler will not heat soak. It's a quality hunk of heavy metal designed for way more than you are throwing at it.

armysoldier1073

iTrader: (1)

^^ YES when Magnus first came out with their cmc it used an out sourced 8/9 style cmc. due to the failure rate they only come with the oem 8/9 cmc now. when i got mine it came with the out sourced one. never had time to put on unitil i HAD to replace it. I bought an oem 8/9 cmc and never had any issues and that was 30k miles ago.

considering both ams and Magnus... both use oem 8/9 cmc, ams seems to offer factory mount location bushing for the steel braided line and a sticker (probably), and ams is about $100 more. same design in the adapter plate.

http://www.maperformance.com/ams-clu...olution-x.html

http://www.maperformance.com/magnus-...c-upgrade.html

which ever you chose is on you... same stuff, different price. but please for the love of god, dont do the SSP one. after 3 revisions i still dont think anyone has any success with them, but sure about recently.

PonoPride

thanks so much for the added info guys. i would have never even thought to look up issues like this. streetlite is only .4 pounds lighter then stock. just figured itd be easier then to run the stock one down to a shop in the middle of the rip out and install of the new clutch.

armysoldier1073

iTrader: (1)

in the long run you'll be happy with turned stocker. when i redo mine im getting rid of streetlite and going back to stocker... right now my clutch hates hills....