What is the best year to buy a Evo X
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
Evo x hasnt been out long enough to tell. I know the 2010 switched to plastic valve covers. My 2008 has the oil leak at the timing chain cover. I havnt had any other problems and im at 30k miles now. I havnt heard much about the 2009 and 2011 having problems. but then again... it is too early to tell. u can try the 2013 and let me know how that goes haha. either way plan on having problems with the car.
Evolving Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: COV
I just don't want to get a year thats needy like the 2gen Eclipse was, man that thing was a pain to keep running, and i didn't even have crank walk.. But at the sametime not break the bank to get one.. I been lurking about for long time and i see ppl posting prices of 30-35K out the door for new, and i thought yeah right, and as you can see by my previous post, those prices are dreamy prices here for new evos in the midwest
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 465
Likes: 0
From: Allen
The MR will absolutely hold more than 400 HP and 400 TQ. I have done it and there are others as well, daily driving reliable. Also there are good things soon to be announced. Don't listen to the nah-Sayers who say it cant be done.
OK well after a long ordeal with Ins I'm finally getting a check and I'm 99% sure I will be picking up a new 13' GSR on Thursday. No big options on it so price is pretty good.
I just picked up a brand new 12 GSR saturday..... The tune seems a lot better from the factory on this model than any other Evo I've driven. Exhaust is even a bit louder stock. Bluetooth is standard now. Diff-pins are stronger and I have peace of mind now. I'm satisfied 100%.
Just coming up to 300 miles on it
Last edited by acidtonic; Oct 17, 2012 at 05:45 AM.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Surprise,Az
I hear the 2010s are really good, though the later models are also good. But I work in insurance, so that's how I view everything... from 2011 onward, the insurance ratings for vehicles changed (used to be on a scale from 0 to maybe 29 or 30, then it went up to a much higher number, maybe 90 or so), and unfortunately the ratings for some cars that were risky to begin with ended up having different rates. I remember quoting myself with an Evo X a number of times... whether 2008 or 2010, they were pretty much the same, but the 2011+ models had noticeably higher rates despite being the same mechanically.
I hear the 2010s are really good, though the later models are also good. But I work in insurance, so that's how I view everything... from 2011 onward, the insurance ratings for vehicles changed (used to be on a scale from 0 to maybe 29 or 30, then it went up to a much higher number, maybe 90 or so), and unfortunately the ratings for some cars that were risky to begin with ended up having different rates. I remember quoting myself with an Evo X a number of times... whether 2008 or 2010, they were pretty much the same, but the 2011+ models had noticeably higher rates despite being the same mechanically.
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,080
Likes: 27
From: Southern California
Hey I have gieco in mass. I got into an accident last year by reversing in a stationary object I didn't see. I got 4 points because of this. Other than this ive had a clean record. The DMG came out to about 4 thousand in repairs. I feel my insurance is slaughtering me now. Do you have any tips on lowering my points or insurance costs?
Combining auto insurance policies (i.e. auto/home or auto/renters) helps. But with you being in MA, which is perhaps the strictest state in the country when it comes to their Department of Insurance, you may not have as many options as people do in other states. However, I don't believe Geico does home insurance. (I don't sell Geico, but I did have them for eleven years before switching.) From what I remember, their website does reference home/renters insurance, but I think it's sent to Liberty Mutual, a different carrier, and you usually won't get a multi-policy discount because they're not the same carrier or under the same ownership. I'm pretty sure that's how it goes, as when my family had Geico, the home insurance was also through Liberty Mutual.
The best thing to do is to re-quote with other companies (which is pretty easy to do and doesn't obligate you to anything). As far as discounts go, they vary from state to state, but things to mention that may not always be asked are:
Highest level of education - The higher, the better, but even incomplete levels can still get discounts. For example, one carrier will still give you a discount for some college whether you're currently enrolled or if you just never finished. They also give a higher discount for graduate school, whether you are still a graduate student or if you finished and achieved your masters degree.
Occupation - Self-explanatory. Don't be bashful, you'd be surprised at what occupations get discounts. The main thing is that you don't want to be listed as "unemployed" or something like that.
Home ownership - Self-explanatory. It may also apply to condos and mobile homes, depending on the carrier. But it has to be pertaining to your residence. So if you rent an apartment where you live primarily and garage your vehicle but you own a home elsewhere, you don't get the discount.
Association discounts - Some carriers give generous discounts for things like having a AAA membership, as long as you've had it for a certain length of time (typically six months or more). Other carriers give you discounts depending on your financial institution, typically if it's a credit union or something along those lines.
Vehicle discounts - If you have any homing devices (i.e. LoJack, TeleTrak), those usually get discounts. But some carriers give discounts if your car has daytime running lights (though I don't think that's the case with the Evo) or even just a regular alarm. Also, some companies give you discounts if you don't drive your car much based on your annual mileage. Progressive introduced SnapShot within the past year or so, and it adjusts your future premiums based on how you drive, but it will not increase it if your driving habits aren't ideal. It's a device that plugs into your OBD-II port.
Advanced discount - If you end up switching carriers, some give you discounts if you set up your policy a certain length of time in advance. Most carriers that offer that discount require seven days or more, though I know of one carrier that gives you that discount if you set up your policy two days in advance.
Paperless - Discounts for having them send all correspondence electronically to a verified e-mail address rather than mailing hard copies. You get stuff right away without having to worry about it being misdirected... win-win.
Payment options - Most companies have a discounted rate if you pay in full, while others also have discounted rates if your installments are set up through EFT (electronic funds transfers), meaning they are linked to your checking account and withdrawn automatically each month. A few will still apply the discount through a credit/debit card.
Prior insurance - Most companies give discounts for having prior coverage for a minimum of six months. Not having a lapse helps, though the longer you've been with your carrier, the bigger discount you'll get. Also, the higher your BI (bodily injury) liability limits were on your previous policy, the bigger discount you'll get. I'd say that matters more than how long you've been with your prior company, as long as you've been with them for six months or more. Most carriers give discounts based on set intervals (i.e. six months, one year, two years, three years, etc.), so if you're thinking of switching, strategize when you do it so you can optimize your discount. But with most carriers, the discount for length of prior coverage is maximized at three years.
Those are the biggest ones I can think of, off the top of my head.